Huntin4ever

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  1. Great Job Tim!! That is one big ol slickhead!!!
  2. Wow!! Heck of a first deer with a bow buddy, congrats!
  3. I have a API Alumitech Bowhunter Extreme (19lbs).... Had it for 3 yrs... Love it..... I've used at one point or another Summit, Ol' Man, Timber Tall, Gorilla, River's Edge.... I wouldn't trade my API for any of them... But one man's perference may not be anothers... I'd say the API climbs quieter than any of the stands I mentioned, way easier to setup (and quieter to setup).... and the teeth on the API dig into any tree.... you could say I'm a big fan.... The Summit is a bit more comfortable... but that's a trade of I made
  4. I am with you GW.... Due to my "T-Rex" arms, I can probably never even dream of shooting 300 fps.... I have a 26 inch draw.... However, when I first started bow hunting, a gentleman I knew told me " you're a stout, young guy... you should shoot a higher draw weight and get a little more speed out of your draw length...." So at 18 yrs old I was hunting with my bow set @ 82#..... I pulled straight back ok, even in the cold, BUT you a darn right it came at the sacrifice of accuracy (big time)..... and with that old bow having 55% let-off I could only hold it back for 15-20 seconds.... the next season I backed the bow down as far as I could (about 71#).... NOW.... I have finally purchased a new bow and I now shoot a bow set @ 63# & 75% let-off..... my older bow was probably a few fps faster, but man..... I can flat out shoot with this new set-up, and hold it back "all-day"...... So, long story short.... those types of guys you speak of (heavy draw guys)..... can do what they want, I've been there and will NEVER go back..... I'm actually thinking about buying a 50-60# bow now.....
  5. They all required the discovery/invention of electricity first?? Be checking to see tomorrow
  6. I've been doing some reading on this new style nock from Bohning.... It is supposed to have been designed especially for fixed blade broadhead stabilization from drop-away and whisker biscuit arrow rests...... Every thing that I've read and seen look very impressive and from the engineering and physics side of things make a lot of sense..... I was wondering if anyone has tried shooting these and if they like 'em.....
  7. Well everyone...... what a opening weekend around our part of the state of Indiana...... everyone BUT ME seemed to kill a deer and many of them great bucks, so I figured I'd share the ones with ya'll that I have pics of..... The 11 point was Cyle's first deer ever (what a way to start, huh!), the big tall 8 point was taken off Public Land (G2's pushing 12"), the 6 point (actually was a 8 with 2 broken tines) was the boy's first antlered deer, and the freak nasty main frame 6 point my brother took ( 9 pts actually, 21" inside, 26" main beams,....he wished it had more points, but talk about character).... interestingly enough the 11 pt and the big 6 pt (9pt) where taken from the same treestand back to back days and both went down within 10 yds of where the other one fell...... well enjoy and hopefully I can post a pic of one for me here soon!!!
  8. If you are wanting the arrow to hit harder it is a matter of physics..... what you are talking about is the kinetic energy of the arrow.... which is 1/2*mass*velocity..... so let's say that by going to a heavier draw weight for example you go from 265 to 275 fps with a 400 grain arrow (shaft, knock, fletchings, and broadhead) then you are increasing the kinetic energy of the arrow by 3.77 %..... however, if you were to go from a 400 grain arrow setup to a 425 grain arrow setup (switch from 100 grain broadhead to a 125 grain broadhead) and stay at 265 fps then the kinetic energy of the arrow increases by 6.25 %......... So what all that means is that if you're wanting your arrow to "hit harder" (better penetration) then go with a heavier arrow setup and keep your bow at the same "weight" (really velocity, fps)..... hope this helps....
  9. I have a PSE Mach 7 and I got the 70-80 lb limbs put on it a few years ago..... I target shot and hunted one year at 82# and the difference for me was just under 10 fps..... I decided it wasn't worth it and now have it set at 69# which is about as low as I can go with it now with the heavier limbs..... my theory behind backin it down was that, yeah when warm and practicing, etc it wasn't that big of a deal to pull, but go sit in 20 degree weather for a few hours not moving and it gets a lot harder..... anyways yes you can get heavier limbs.....
  10. I had a similar issue with my PSE during the first few weeks of archery a few years back, I had new limbs on the bow and was back in business in under 2 weeks.... they have great customer service...... My suggest is that if you have a good archery shop that you deal with, go to them and they can take care of everything, taking old limbs off, sending them in, installing new limbs, and properly shimming the cams.... that's how I handled my issue and was very satisfied....... Good luck!!
  11. A buddy of mine has one, shot it... loved it..... and he is nuts about it which I greatly respect (he won the IBO World Championship HC).... anyways...... you can't feel or hear anything when releasing... The design helps with taking tension off off the limb pockets connected to the riser, reducing recoil.... also a big thing with the design is that NO bow press is needed to break down the bow.... I plan on getting one well before next season.....
  12. I agree with much of what's been said..... calling at a deer, if where you're hunting is open rarely works, also if you're not scent free it's not gonna happen... almost every mature deer, buck or doe, I've called at that has responsed has worked downwind of where I'm calling from..... something I like to keep is do not call too much (Like when turkey hunting), in the heat of the moment when you see a good buck it's hard.... also try to keep it natural by not calling too much, or too loudly (there are always "hail marys", but I'm talking usually).... think of how many times out of the hours we spend on stand that we actually hear a buck gruntin, doe bleat, or horns clashing, for me not very often..... So my advice.... this time of year is when you can catch a buck off guard, try to not call if a deer is inside 100 yds (more like 60'ish if using a decoy), if blind calling try to space it out every hour or so..... Also, my favorite "calling routine" is soft tending grunts, space them out every 2 sec or so then hit the "can" and speed up the tending grunts for a bit, then go back to the space out tending grunt..... keep this pattern going for a few minutes (3-5) and keep it soft...... then stop calling and listen.... give it about 10 minutes, this is to see if a deer comes in to investigate the "buck chasing a doe" calling.... if nothing in 8-10 minutes get on the horns or rattle bag for about 30 sec or so....... then give a couple good ole reg grunts and grab your bow and stay ready.... I've had deer run in and I've had them slip in looking around 20 min later....... Hope this helps, I've called a few in over the years and it's what seems to work for me........
  13. I just want you guys to know that because I posted this video link, DOESN'T mean that I agree with the shot AT ALL..... however, I did think it would be interesting to get others input......
  14. Huntin4ever

    Bow kill 2007

    Congrats, nice buck.... he sure does look big bodied..