Brad6639

anybody?

Ive been thinking of getting one of these in 3x9x40. Have any of you guys tried them before and do the balistic reticles actually work, I know in the past Ive heard mixed results with nikons bdc reticles and this is basicaslly the same thing.

I am glad to see him gone, anyone else would have been in prison for life. Today on the radio they just kept talking about him on and on, and so I took the liberty to email them and say that I would no longer be listening to their station if they are promoting child molesters and chile abuse(hanging a child over a balcony). I dont care how talented he supposidly was, that DOES NOT trump child abuse and molesting!

I love my 300 win mag, especially 15 minutes into rifle season when she spits out a foot of flame!

I was wondering if anyone has any experiance with their products, Im, considering shelling out the money for one because they appear to be a very good durable pack, but I always like to ask first. The one Im looking at is the Ultra day I believe. It could have been the Super day though, it was a fairly small one.

Well I just checked the Wyoming Fish and Game website and saw that me and my father drew our non resident antelope tags for zone 23. We will be hunting on a 14,000 acre ranch and its basically one of the types of hunt where we do the scouting and all that fun stuff, and if we are successful we pay the landowner 150 bucks for the buck (I guess out there they call it a trespass fee??) Anyways we will be arriving for the rifle season but Im going to try with a bow at first and if that dont work my backup is my ml or my 300 mag. Has anyone hunted this area before? I have already gone ahead and got a renzoe buck antelope decoy, a double bull darkhorse blind, a vortex 20x60 spotting scope with window mount and tripod, and my regular vortex diamondback bincos that are 8x42 and then I still want to get a good backpack. What should I plan on for gear as Im not sure of the climate at that time of year. Our plans are to pull out a trailer and buy a freezer out there when we get there and plug it in and let it frost up, and then if we get one cut it up ourselves (we do 8 or so deer a year) and then Ill cape it out myself as Im starting a taxidermy buissness and need to do my own stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would take a good hard look at a CVA. I got the Optima magnum (shorter barrel and no barrel fluting) over the Optima pro. I put a 30 dollar tasco scope on it and the cva rings. In 2003 I shot 2 deer with it at close range, and then in 2004 I shot my biggest buck to date, 1 real nice ten pointer at 226 yards (ranged before the shot) and dropped him in his tracks. I paid $210 for the gun, and $30 for the scope and $20 for the rings. I sat next to a TC Encore and this gun out shot it all morning at the range. I shoot 2 triple seven pellets and a tc shockwave sabot although I killed more deer with the TC mag xtp sabots. I have shot somewhere around 10 deer with it and take her out several times a year. The other thing Id mention is in Wi you just have to unprime the gun to have it unloaded legally, so the charge I shot that 10 pointer with was 3 weeks old and had been through several damp and misty mornings and still went bang 3 weeks later!

I for one dont think 20 bucks is too far out of line for them, I fletch a lot of arrows and I run around a buck an arrow for blazer vanes, and a buck per wrap. So I pay around 12 bucks to fletch a dozen arrows and that dosent figure in the glue or my time(I like doing it so it dont count anyway), so your paying around a buck an arrow for the conveniance and simplisity. Theres a lot more expensive things in archery than that. I have seen them come apart though, but then again I have seen regular wraps do that too.

I bought a pair of Alpha Burleys in the fall of 2005. Ive worn them through 4 bowseasons, 4 rifle seasons, 2 or 3 turkey seasons and 4 pairs of ice fishing seasons. They are getting tired but I know Ive worn them on at least 150 trips out over those 14 seasons worth of use, and probly more like 200 or more. I will be buying another pair for this year!

I drew my tag for NR antelope, my dad seems to have a problem with his app, strange cuz I did both applications right after each other. Luckily there are over a thousand left over tags available in our unit just in case he didnt draw one. I will be going during the rifle season, but I want to try with a bow and if that dont work then Ill bring out the 300 mag or my Thompson Center contender 7mm tcu.

Im glad I wasnt the first person to think it, I plan on picking up any roadkill buck I find and getting a tag for it, as long as the horns are good I can send them out with my display mounts at local hardware stores, sporting goods stores etc. If the capes in good shape I have a free practice head mount to be displayed and then if the cape is ruined but the skull or horns are good I can do european mounts or horn mounts.

I have a practically brand new B stinger bow stabilizer that I have only had about a month that I would like to sell or potentially trade. It is the 12" version with a 14 ounce and an 11 ounce weight system. I just couldnt get used to that much weight on the bow so I want to find it a new home. I would sell both for $100 shipped, or I would consider trades. It retailed brand new for nearly $130 and is as new as new gets, Im pretty sure I still have the box even. I forgot to mention, its in realtree apg and hardwoods on the 11 ounce extra weight.

I use a Specialty Archery super peep, they are spendy but they are nice how you can change the aperture size for hunting or targets or indoors etc. If you have a decent string on your bow it shouldnt twist if its properly installed. My vapertrails twisted a little bit on the first shot and had to be adjusted, but after that it hasnt moved. The real difference isnt the peeps, its what its riding in(The string).

Id look into a Bear instinct if you can find one. They are a couple years old but a nice forgiving single cam bow and shoot plenty fast enough for shots out to 40 yards or so. I prefer Hoyt bows myself but they are expensive and as a newbie, unless your very talented right off the bat, you probably wouldnt benefit any from an $800 bow over a $350, the same goes for a matthews. Martin also makes a pretty darn nice bow for the money and so does Diamond if your willing to spend a little more than the Bears or Martins. The big thing is make sure it fits you, you will shoot a $100 bow that fits you better than an $800 that doesent. Take it to your local pro shop and have them set you up right, and dont always think that more money is better, there are a lot of items you can put on a bow that work just as well as one double the price.

Ive decided to go ahead and open up a taxidermy studio at my parents house and get started doing it part time. Id like to go full time at some point down the road but I currently work for the state and cant afford to leave that steady income just yet. I have a 12x18 foot shed Ill be working out of as soon as I get it finished off inside and get it setup with my work bench that Im getting this weekend. My question is how does one get started doing this. Ive been watching taxidermy videos on www.taxidermytube.com (Dan Rinehardt) and others on youtube. Id like to go to some classes but it isnt an option due to my regular day job so this is what I have to work with. My plans are to do fish, deer heads and birds as well as european mounts and other specialty work, bascially some day being a full fledged shop. Is there any suggestions on how a shop should be set up to maximise the available space, and any tools that are must haves and then the nice to have but not a have to have. Im totally new to this but Im really excited so far. Ive been writing down all my purchases so I can account for them later. Ive checked into getting a taxidermy liscense and I have the paper work for the state in progress. Any help or suggestions would be awesome!