SonnyThomas

Okay, honesty first. I'm on a Crusade. I am of the opinion any tune procedure is only as good as you put into it. Don't care what tuning procedure, be it French, Modified French, Walk Back, Broadhead, or whatever. Personally I think there are too many forms of tuning - Yoke tuning (different from taking cam lean out), Kitchen Sink tuning (whatever it is), arrow rest torque tuning and the list goes on. Now, here comes along "bare shaft tuning and apply grip pressure" to make bare shafts impact with fletched arrows at any distance. So I French tune like the original procedure, 9 feet out to as far as I can keep my arrow on the target bag, say 55 and 60 yards. When I'm done I can pretty much make arrows slap together from right out of the bow out to 80 yards. Ain't sayin' I'm good shot, but I get the job done for the most part. Placed and won a few Field event. So now this bare shaft / grip pressure is supposed improve upon this. I'd like to know how. Robin Hoods at a 100 yards?

Article wasn't what I was looking for. French Tuning. Looked it up all over the place. No one knows why it's called French.

Please forgive me, but I'm a French tuning fan. Center shot the best it can be, then play with the rest or nocking point to see if groups can be tightened. Okay, I can understand bare shaft tuning to a degree. But explain why grip pressure is needed to make a bow bare shaft tune properly...if that's the case.

Why the lack of target shooting? Still, for as long as RealTree has been on and the number of members I'd think someone would be shooting 3D, even if not the high profile kind.

I've been bouncing in and out of here for quite some time and find it odd that more don't shoot 3D and maybe paper target.Hunting I do, taking some 35 or more deer over the last 13 years. And then throw in a squirrel or two and same for rabbits.3D I do quite a bit, 20 or events per year and as high as 30, I think. Figure every weekend from the first of March through September. And then 3D indoors when there is one and there was one this year, Presley's First Annual Indoor 3D. And it was more than one day. There were 3 qualifiers and then a Shoot Off, so 4 days over a period of time.Shooting 3D mostly at the club level I run into some Semi Pros and Pros and I usually hold my own even though 64 years old. Yes, I compete in the Adult class of Free Style and only in Senior for ASA events.The only indoor paper event I really enjoy is the ASA DAIR Indoor. The target is shaped like a deer lung and has 4 different points zones. A 5th is used, but only used when switching lines, upper and lower lines.This DAIR is different than spot shooting. You can team up to spot for each other or have a spotter, someone with good binoculars or spotting scope. I'll see if can post a picture.Bows... I shoot whatever I have. Back when there was Golden Eagle. Then Hoyt for many years. I shot Martin for 3 years and just last year went back to Pearson. Didn't make any difference the bow as I did well with all of them.... Perhaps 15 or more bows since returning to archery back in late December 1998.I am no tuning fantic, but my bows perform. By most accounts I "throw a bow together." I don't, but if by all the tuning procedures floating around and all the "you gotta dos" my bows aren't worth spit, but then with 35 some deer, 37, I think, and over 120 times placing/winning in 3D and paper target events my bows get the job done.I don't care for short ata bows. My bows have been 37 1/2" ata and longer, even my hunting bow reaches to near 38" ata. And it's not that short bows aren't accurate. I do have a couple. My most recent, 33 1/2" ata, is near pin point accurate in spite of me. 5 arrows from 35 yards in the X ring of a 20 yard single spot NFAA indoor target is pretty accurate, me thinks.So why not more shooting target events?

??? So Allen bought the rights to put "Team RealTree" on questionable quality broadheads?

The Gunnison and Chiz-L, who's using them?What's with? "This product manufactured by Allen Company, Inc., Broomfield, Co." and package has; "Made in China"

Forgot to add something. Today's short bows can be hard drawing. If I want I can draw 70 pounds with my old 2000 Hoyt UltraTec - the old standard limb configuration and 38 1/2" ata. I tried to draw a friend's 30" bow set to 65 pounds and it was a demon to get over the hump.

My standard hunting rig is a 2000 Hoyt MagnaTec set to 67 pounds with 29" draw. Arrow weighing 380 grs the old girl nails down 270 fps. My Pearson TX4, just for playing, is maxed at 62 pounds with a 28" draw. Arrow weighing 314 grs it nails 310 fps. My 2011 Martin Shadowcat is set to 55 pounds with a 28 1/4" draw. Arrow weighing 282 grs it nails 285 fps. My Ole War Horse, a 2000 Hoyt UltraTec is set to 62 pounds with a 29" draw (off the string). With a 314 gr arrow is nails 295 fps.

Come March 20th I'll be 63. I shoot just about daily. A few arrows Monday thru Thursday and then maybe 100 per day Friday, Saturday and Sunday. My normal hunting draw weight is 67 pounds, but when cold moves in I drop to 62 pounds. My 3D bows run from 55 to 62 pounds. ASA shooters here, my Martin Shadowcat is set to 55 pounds and with 282 gr arrow nails 285 fps. I can shoot this just about all day long. Well, a Field round is 112 shots and whatever warm up shots I take, about 10 or so and this just to see if I'm on... Figured up the shots on my Shadowcat, 23,340 shots in 1 1/2 years, not counting a few 3Ds and practicing for hunting. Normal year for me, some 15,000 to 16,000 shots. Of note; It seems more people drop out of archery due to pain. Find a comfortable draw weight and stay with it.

http://www.realtree.com/forums/target-archery/107950-death-grip.html

redkneck, I agree, but "for those who think" it's the greatest thing since slice bread I'm trying to find out who uses them. So far no one has acknowledged the Death Grip and some 40 viewers.

Does anyone use the Death Grip? For those that don't know, it's a grip device or roller type grip handle to eliminate torquing the bow or something like this.

I shot the event again this year. It was to be a Illinois ASA State Qualifier. We didn't have a whole lot shoot, but everyone enjoyed it greatly. We even had some dedicated spot shooters shoot that said it's ruin there spot game - hinge release kids for you. Well these spot shooters found a new love. Ruin their game? It probably improved their game. Every hinge release shooter cleaned the 1 minute round! Oh yeah, aging ole me, 63 next month, put the hurt on all young pups with a High Overall score. I fired a 432/440. A..mmmm...No one was more surprised than me when I missed that dang big 8. My release just plain went off and a big time zero.

Stabilizer Setup for Indoor Freestyle Well, you didn't say what bow you have, but here's formula below that might help.Also, adding weight can help, but you have to build up to it. All at once and you found out.I use a 30" Cartel with all the weights that came with it, so not really heavy, just enough to give a nice forward roll. Formula is as follows:length of front bar * weight on front bar = "X"Then:"X" / length of back bar = weight on back bar.example:27" Front bar * 4 ounces = 108108 / 12" rear bar = 9 ounces for the rear bar.You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X.