SonnyThomas

Okay, honesty first. I'm on a Crusade. I am of the opinion any tune procedure is only as good as you put into it. Don't care what tuning procedure, be it French, Modified French, Walk Back, Broadhead, or whatever. Personally I think there are too many forms of tuning - Yoke tuning (different from taking cam lean out), Kitchen Sink tuning (whatever it is), arrow rest torque tuning and the list goes on. Now, here comes along "bare shaft tuning and apply grip pressure" to make bare shafts impact with fletched arrows at any distance. So I French tune like the original procedure, 9 feet out to as far as I can keep my arrow on the target bag, say 55 and 60 yards. When I'm done I can pretty much make arrows slap together from right out of the bow out to 80 yards. Ain't sayin' I'm good shot, but I get the job done for the most part. Placed and won a few Field event. So now this bare shaft / grip pressure is supposed improve upon this. I'd like to know how. Robin Hoods at a 100 yards?

Article wasn't what I was looking for. French Tuning. Looked it up all over the place. No one knows why it's called French.

Please forgive me, but I'm a French tuning fan. Center shot the best it can be, then play with the rest or nocking point to see if groups can be tightened. Okay, I can understand bare shaft tuning to a degree. But explain why grip pressure is needed to make a bow bare shaft tune properly...if that's the case.

Why the lack of target shooting? Still, for as long as RealTree has been on and the number of members I'd think someone would be shooting 3D, even if not the high profile kind.

I've been bouncing in and out of here for quite some time and find it odd that more don't shoot 3D and maybe paper target.Hunting I do, taking some 35 or more deer over the last 13 years. And then throw in a squirrel or two and same for rabbits.3D I do quite a bit, 20 or events per year and as high as 30, I think. Figure every weekend from the first of March through September. And then 3D indoors when there is one and there was one this year, Presley's First Annual Indoor 3D. And it was more than one day. There were 3 qualifiers and then a Shoot Off, so 4 days over a period of time.Shooting 3D mostly at the club level I run into some Semi Pros and Pros and I usually hold my own even though 64 years old. Yes, I compete in the Adult class of Free Style and only in Senior for ASA events.The only indoor paper event I really enjoy is the ASA DAIR Indoor. The target is shaped like a deer lung and has 4 different points zones. A 5th is used, but only used when switching lines, upper and lower lines.This DAIR is different than spot shooting. You can team up to spot for each other or have a spotter, someone with good binoculars or spotting scope. I'll see if can post a picture.Bows... I shoot whatever I have. Back when there was Golden Eagle. Then Hoyt for many years. I shot Martin for 3 years and just last year went back to Pearson. Didn't make any difference the bow as I did well with all of them.... Perhaps 15 or more bows since returning to archery back in late December 1998.I am no tuning fantic, but my bows perform. By most accounts I "throw a bow together." I don't, but if by all the tuning procedures floating around and all the "you gotta dos" my bows aren't worth spit, but then with 35 some deer, 37, I think, and over 120 times placing/winning in 3D and paper target events my bows get the job done.I don't care for short ata bows. My bows have been 37 1/2" ata and longer, even my hunting bow reaches to near 38" ata. And it's not that short bows aren't accurate. I do have a couple. My most recent, 33 1/2" ata, is near pin point accurate in spite of me. 5 arrows from 35 yards in the X ring of a 20 yard single spot NFAA indoor target is pretty accurate, me thinks.So why not more shooting target events?

??? So Allen bought the rights to put "Team RealTree" on questionable quality broadheads?

The Gunnison and Chiz-L, who's using them?What's with? "This product manufactured by Allen Company, Inc., Broomfield, Co." and package has; "Made in China"

Forgot to add something. Today's short bows can be hard drawing. If I want I can draw 70 pounds with my old 2000 Hoyt UltraTec - the old standard limb configuration and 38 1/2" ata. I tried to draw a friend's 30" bow set to 65 pounds and it was a demon to get over the hump.

My standard hunting rig is a 2000 Hoyt MagnaTec set to 67 pounds with 29" draw. Arrow weighing 380 grs the old girl nails down 270 fps. My Pearson TX4, just for playing, is maxed at 62 pounds with a 28" draw. Arrow weighing 314 grs it nails 310 fps. My 2011 Martin Shadowcat is set to 55 pounds with a 28 1/4" draw. Arrow weighing 282 grs it nails 285 fps. My Ole War Horse, a 2000 Hoyt UltraTec is set to 62 pounds with a 29" draw (off the string). With a 314 gr arrow is nails 295 fps.

Come March 20th I'll be 63. I shoot just about daily. A few arrows Monday thru Thursday and then maybe 100 per day Friday, Saturday and Sunday. My normal hunting draw weight is 67 pounds, but when cold moves in I drop to 62 pounds. My 3D bows run from 55 to 62 pounds. ASA shooters here, my Martin Shadowcat is set to 55 pounds and with 282 gr arrow nails 285 fps. I can shoot this just about all day long. Well, a Field round is 112 shots and whatever warm up shots I take, about 10 or so and this just to see if I'm on... Figured up the shots on my Shadowcat, 23,340 shots in 1 1/2 years, not counting a few 3Ds and practicing for hunting. Normal year for me, some 15,000 to 16,000 shots. Of note; It seems more people drop out of archery due to pain. Find a comfortable draw weight and stay with it.

http://www.realtree.com/forums/target-archery/107950-death-grip.html

redkneck, I agree, but "for those who think" it's the greatest thing since slice bread I'm trying to find out who uses them. So far no one has acknowledged the Death Grip and some 40 viewers.

Does anyone use the Death Grip? For those that don't know, it's a grip device or roller type grip handle to eliminate torquing the bow or something like this.

I shot the event again this year. It was to be a Illinois ASA State Qualifier. We didn't have a whole lot shoot, but everyone enjoyed it greatly. We even had some dedicated spot shooters shoot that said it's ruin there spot game - hinge release kids for you. Well these spot shooters found a new love. Ruin their game? It probably improved their game. Every hinge release shooter cleaned the 1 minute round! Oh yeah, aging ole me, 63 next month, put the hurt on all young pups with a High Overall score. I fired a 432/440. A..mmmm...No one was more surprised than me when I missed that dang big 8. My release just plain went off and a big time zero.

Stabilizer Setup for Indoor Freestyle Well, you didn't say what bow you have, but here's formula below that might help.Also, adding weight can help, but you have to build up to it. All at once and you found out.I use a 30" Cartel with all the weights that came with it, so not really heavy, just enough to give a nice forward roll. Formula is as follows:length of front bar * weight on front bar = "X"Then:"X" / length of back bar = weight on back bar.example:27" Front bar * 4 ounces = 108108 / 12" rear bar = 9 ounces for the rear bar.You then take the 9 ounces, put it on the rear bar. If you do a true V bar, you split the weights between the two bars. If you do a side bar, you do it on the solo side bar.You then add or remove weight on the rear bar only. Aim for the X. Remove or add weight until your side to side "misses" are down to a nice, ragged oval that basically kills the X.

Okay, though I shoots spots I am no lover of spots. I said this more than a few times on several different sites. Here is a paper target event that gave me some fun.Picture at bottom. The target is 17" square.Anyone interested, here is a complete set of rules and a timer is included and can loaded to your computer, warning colors and horn.http://asaarchery.com/news/index.php...&id=8&Itemid=2 First, it is a timed event. Each end is 4 arrows. The first 3 ends are 2 minutes each. The second 3 ends are 1 min 40 seconds each. The third 3 ends are 1 minute 20 seconds each. The tenth and final end is 1 minute. So a 440 point game. 44 points per end.This event is shot from the 20 yard line. There is also a Safety line 1 yard back of the 20 yard line. Only the shooters are allowed past it.Now, you can have a buddy help spot for you, so it can be made sort of team event. Shots can be close and I'm here to tell it would be nice to have a buddy with a pair of good binoculars or spotting scope to tell you if you got the point. Read on. Again, the spotter can not go beyond the safety line.Now, shooting this target requires a bit of thinking. Basically, you have a fair size lung type target face. In the upper back of the lung is a green 14 ring about the size of tennis ball. There is a fair size blue 10 ring. Within the 10 ring are three other rings. The red is for IBO and treated as part of the 10 ring. There are 2 yellow 12 rings, upper and lower, and they are bigger than the X ring of the NFAA 5 Spot. The upper 12 is shot on the upper line and the lower 12 shot on the lower line. Now, the 12 not in play is counted as part of the 10 ring. All the white is counted as 8 points.Here's the thing. Only 1 arrow per point zone is counted. Put 2 arrows in any point ring and you only get to count one arrow. One thing, bring enough arrows to the line. On the line and shoot in progress you can not pick up a dropped arrow - safety issue and not to interrupt the adjoining shooters. Get this rolling. You can shoot this target in any order you wish, but the following manner has proved the best.Shoot for the 14. If you shoot low you have the 8 point zone. You can then adjust and shoot for the 14 again. Of course if you shoot too high you're in the black no point zone.The 12s are shot next. If you shoot for the upper 12 and shoot low or high you either have the 10 point zone or the 8 point zone. You can then adjust and shoot for the upper 12 again.The lower 12 is something of the same. Too low and a 8 and too high and a 10.Finally, you have that great big 8 to finish on.Remember, only 1 arrow per point zone can be counted.Of the above, if you missed a higher point you have to think if you want to go for it again. Next, your buddy spotter comes into play also. Did you edge the point zone or did you miss by a hair? Remember, this is a timed event. Your buddy spotter can save you time.Again, here is where you can get your wife, girl friend or buddy involved.

Been away for awhile. But, yep, I was there. Mercy, I think if you add all the events up there were something over 2000 shooters.

Is arrow straightness important? I agree here and with dbHunter. Weight is one my pet peeves. I want weight close, no more than 3 grs. My targets arrows I want closer, less than 1/2 gr. Weight forward technology. Sorry, I don't like the new CX Maxima line. I know how to build the arrow I want. More than anything Carbon Express added weight to their old CX line of arrows. I've read of tests through shooting machines. Seems that overly stiff and overly weak arrows shot out to 60 yards grouped and had accuracy as well as those with perfect spine. So if this is true, then why not arrows with run out of up to .006"? Some of the old shooters would have to speak up, but way back when aluminum wasn't all that super straight and accuracy was superb. Probably the least straightest I've seen used in competition is the CX Lite Hunter, .0035". This particular shooter pounds Xs to no end in indoor 5 spot events. Bob, my co-worker at the archery shop, does some awfully good shooting with his CX Rebels, .005" and then he is also over spined. Me, I've used CX arrows of .0025" for years in competition. I couldn't tell the difference between .001" Selects and the CXs of.0025".

Hi all. I came across this post on another site. It began with what the Poster thought was a failed mechanical broadhead and.... The Thread got out of hand... happily. Starts a bit slow, but then gets a full head of steam. Warning, have change of underwear or Depends on hand and some pics are not for the weak of heart. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1316843

anyone get a new bow? Well, several weeks passed and no bow. Seems there was a problem in coating the bows. Martin, I guess, now has their own paint, dip or coat operation.However, I was loaned a jet black Shadowcat by a staff shooter. Awesome in a good word. Still, it was a tad slow, managing just 264 fps with the 50 pounds limbs. BUT! Talk about accurate. I couldn't believe it could shoot so well with it being a tad long on draw length. A test bow, it now has been sent back to the factory.And then I got another with 60 pounds limbs to shoot. I guess it's mine. This one is a little updated as the grip is more contoured. And it shoots every bit as good as the jet black one.Just a couple days ago I was shooting 30 yards and more and if I missed the X I was kinda disappointed - still glad to nail the 5 though.Did a test run of sorts - changing draw weight to see how it effected accuracy. And then some guys wanting to know how the Shadowcat shoots didn't help. So a bit of nerves, but from 30 yards and 32 shots later I took a pic.

Well, I shot in the ProAm back in June. I agreed to shoot a staff shooter's Martin Shadowcat. I had a week or so to play with it and it barely managed 264 fps, but was super accurate. Draw length was a tad long too. I ended up 46th of 78 in class, but there was only a 30 some point spread from me to 1st place. I got to be one of the score keepers, two of us, so I underlined my scores when I shot low. 14 times I just shot below the 12/10 area. Okay, I was a yard or two short in judging, but then I was used to a rig in the 280 fps realm. So being down 20 fps may have been some of my down fall. Later, use to the slower 264 fps I did real well in a few local 3Ds, a 1st place and a fun shoot with a 289/300. The bow was more or less a test bow and now has gone back to factory. I'd to have been to keep it and refine it for strictly indoor targets. Before I forget. I reported sometime back that I nailed the little disc from 50 some years. Well, I won the long distance shot. Noticed in one reply of arrows for 3D and someone noted Maxima Selects. At one time I would have said; "Good choice." Today, the Maximas far heavier than the older CXs, nope. And I like Carbon Express arrows, just not the too heavy 250s and 350s. I shoot CXL 250 SSs for indoor and 3D. A little thicker than Maximas and a lot lighter.

I've read many posts of "arrow blew up right out of bow." Now, I've shot some pretty weak spined arrows that by the charts I shouldn't have shooting them, but I was always on the heavy side of IBO specs. And I know people who have even more poundage behind the same arrows and they have great accuracy and never a problem with blowing up arrows. Check the charts on this one; CXL 250 (yes, target arrow), 29" long, CXL insert with 100 gr field point or broadhead, Easton nock/insert, 4" vanes and out of a bow set to 30" of draw and 67 pounds of draw weight. This bow/arrow set up belongs to my friend and he shoots 3D and taken more deer in one year than most think of shooting. I think he, legally, took 11 deer in one year. Here, Illinois, we are allowed 2 bucks (might be changing) and all the does you can afford to buy tags for. Carbon arrows must be inspected after shot. That slammed arrow could be damaged. The arrow that hits a hard object can be damaged. Here's one thing that I have found consistent; No brand new, never fired carbon was ever reported to be one of the blown up arrows.

2010 Archery Tournament/Practice ScoresShot the 50 target event and did so-so. Beings a buddy was using his range finder I didn't really keep score as turning a score is not allowed if anyone in a group is using a range finder. Still, one shot was well worth putting on a 3 day event. I had been slapping DT's arrow virtually throughout the event, but on target 40 that changed. He was above the lower ASA 12 and I said; "Oh well, when in doubt just aim for the nock." DT said; :Yeah, sure." He was using his binoculars when I let log. Wham! Robin Hood! 40 yards! Got a pic, but sort of sucks. The rain or humidity must have got to it. Odd for them computer chip jobs, but you can see a lot of gray and I changed the color and contrast a bunch. I drew in the 10 and 12 ring and underlined my arrow and where it stuck in DT's arrow. Just today me and another sidekick went to Pekin for a relaxing 30 3D target event. We did good just playing around. CB shot a 290 and I shot a 288 for 300. IBO or ASA point rings not counted, but we had a few of them. To finish off the shoot I once more tried for the 50 yard 2" clay disc. 3 shots for a $1.00. My first shots were actually touching the bottom of the orange clay target. My last shot drilled the little sucker. When we left I was the only one to hit it. So maybe I got some prize money coming.

2010 Archery Tournament/Practice ScoresI've been practicing. Last week I pulled the observation window out so to get 30 and 32 1/2 yards. Today, warmed up, I set loose 12 arrows for 60 and 10 Xs from 30 yards. I tried a 3 from 32 1/2 yards - have to bend a bit because of counter. Got my sight chart, yard for yard, out to 50 yards. 50 target 3D this weekend, so I think I'm ready. Been trying the 3" X vane - doesn't seem any better than 2" Blazers. The CXL 250 SSs run 342.1 with Blazers and 345 with the 3" X vane. Can't tell the difference in impact. That's my ProElite hanging on the right, 30 yards and 32 1/2 yards.

2010 Archery Tournament/Practice Scores Late reply. We finished up the indoor 5 spot 5 week thing. I tied for 2nd place and only shot 2 300s. Our shop hosted Illinois first 2010 ASA Indoor paper target event, DAIR. I nailed down 1st in Super Senior class. Of the Illinois ASA 3D Qualifier I had to shoot Known 45 because I recorded all the known yardages. I finished in 3rd place for my first outdoor 3D contest. I was a little hesitant about shooting for 12s, but got more aggressive on the last 20. I got 10 of the 12s here. I just plain messed up. Others talking, confusion and brain dead I set my sight for the wrong distance and shot a 5. Of course I'm peeved and don't screw my head on and shoot a 8 on the next target. I got my head screwed on after that. I drilled 2 12s on the next 2 targets and 10ed out on the last 2. One screw up and I was down and out. Those two targets took me out of 1st place. 1st had 398 and I had 392. High Overall was 410. So not to bad for 61 years old.