dbHunterNY Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 (edited) This has to have been brought up before, but I'm curious. How many paper tune or walk-back tune your bow? Some can't figure it out. Some say to move the rest in different directions for correction than others. Some say their bow shoots worse after doing it. I've had mixed experiences paper tuning, but most have been good. Rarely have I done "walk-back" tuning. Some I know just "eye ball" things and get it all close. I'm tuning two bows tonight when I get home. So who does either? Edited March 24, 2011 by dbHunterNY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flintlock1776 Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I do that at my Pro Shop. He also uses the device to check the bow's speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethan Givan Posted March 24, 2011 Report Share Posted March 24, 2011 I had a new string put on my bow, started shooting shorter arrows, and changed tip weight 2 seasons ago. I paper tuned my bow then because my arrows fish tailed alittle at long distances. I paper tuned and it shot great, so I havent touched anything since. It works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toddyboman Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 yes I paper tune my bow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckrich Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 I paper tune mine, but haven't seen the need to walk-back tune. My bow actually shoots best at a hair more than 1/8" out of tune, as compared to a perfect bullet hole. I don't know why, but she shoots straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 had to put a new rest on my target bow last night. i then paper tuned it, and found the nocking point to be a little low. i'll have to get it reserved and moved i guess. didn't get a chance to shoot it and see how it's grouping. paper tuned my hunting bow, because i got stiffer arrows, turned up the poundage, and got new strings and cables. seems it tuned kind of far in, so i'm going to go back and test it at different distances from the paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Kid Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I have mine done at my local pro shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnatecsteve Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 I do when I set a bow up, or when I change something major like a rest. I might try bare shaft tuning next time like I did for my longbows. Might actually work better. Any arrow will flex when leaving the bow, so paper may be giving some people false information if they don't fully understand the dynamics of arrow flight and spine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckee Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 (edited) Paper Tuning: http://www.bowsite.com/BOWSITE/features/articles/tuning/papertuning/indexpt.cfm Here's some video links on how to Paper tune your bow also http://www.google.ca/search?hl=&q=paper+tuning+your+bow&sourceid=navclient-ff&rlz=1B3GGGL_enCA358CA358&ie=UTF-8&aq=0&oq=Paper+tuning+your+bow#q=paper+tuning+your+bow&hl=en&rlz=1B3GGGL_enCA358CA358&prmd=ivns&source=univ&tbm=vid&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=J56QTeLCMYausAOZyoGfAg&ved=0CDoQqwQ&fp=95c1784713a89693 Edited March 28, 2011 by buckee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 This is what I do. Before you do anything make sure your cams are timed right! Even single cam and binary cam bows have a specific starting reference point on the cams! 1. Set the rest up with a center shot guage. Spray the fletching with foot powder to be sure there is no fletch interference. Fletch interference still can happen with drop away rests. Nock height and rest height is very important with drop aways. Make sure the rest is starting high enough above the shelf. 2. Attempt to papertune. Always only make ONE adjustment at a time. Make nock height adjustments before rest left or right adjustments. If adjustments don't seem to work change head weights. Heavier if it is acting too stiff and lighter if it is acting to weak. Papertuning right establishes left to right position of the arrowrest. 3. Walk-back tune. This will fine tune your rest left to right and nock point height. After you've done Papertuning and Walk-back tuning you are ready to broadhead tune. 4. Broadhead tune with a fixed head that weighs the same as your fieldpoints. In addition, the broadhead should cause the arrow to balance at as close to the same distance from nock end to balance point as the fieldpoint. Broadheads that do this are the most useful for broadhead tuning in my experience. Again make only one adjustment at a time! Always adjust the nocking point first if indicated. I personally do not make any rest adjustments when broadhead tuning. I've established position already with my previous tuning efforts. To correct for left and right differences I increase or decrease the draw weight in small increments. Using this method I've found the bow will shoot all types of heads better. Check out Easton's tuning guide for specifics on tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted March 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 Leo has got it right. One thing I have noticed with single cam bows is it pays to make sure everything is in spec first (brace height, ata, tiller, etc) and check for idler wheel lean. add or have a shop add twists to the yoke/cable to correct it. adding twist on the right will correct a left tear that shouldn't be, I believe. then do the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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