SonnyThomas Posted June 10, 2014 Report Share Posted June 10, 2014 Please forgive me, but I'm a French tuning fan. Center shot the best it can be, then play with the rest or nocking point to see if groups can be tightened. Okay, I can understand bare shaft tuning to a degree. But explain why grip pressure is needed to make a bow bare shaft tune properly...if that's the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravin R10 man Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 (edited) Perhaps this may help? http://www.edersbow.com/bare-shaft-power-tune/ we have a few here who are very good on tuning, perhaps they can offer more than I oh ya, we've always helped the French j/k Edited June 11, 2014 by Mathews XT Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonnyThomas Posted June 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 Article wasn't what I was looking for. French Tuning. Looked it up all over the place. No one knows why it's called French. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravin R10 man Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 maybe try at this site. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=656195&referrerid=22477 only thing I French tuned was my fries with ketchup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted June 11, 2014 Report Share Posted June 11, 2014 I've French tuned and it works well as long you can maintain yourself to shoot really well and not pluck or punch the release at all. this is more important and more precision is required the closer you are to the target. when it comes to paper tuning it's my opinion that grip pressure is important with either fletched or bare shafts. more so with bare shafts. if grip pressure top to bottom isn't consistent or correct then it'll cause vertical nock movement throughout the strings power stroke after release. with a bare shaft there's nothing to counteract that movement like fletches and air resistance. this is also why follow through is equally important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ravin R10 man Posted June 12, 2014 Report Share Posted June 12, 2014 (edited) Here is another site that you may join to find out more; http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=656195 don't know why it's called French tuning...you want the arrows to stick together,... not run away!.....j/k of course...lol Edited December 8, 2014 by Mathews XT Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonnyThomas Posted June 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2014 Okay, honesty first. I'm on a Crusade. I am of the opinion any tune procedure is only as good as you put into it. Don't care what tuning procedure, be it French, Modified French, Walk Back, Broadhead, or whatever. Personally I think there are too many forms of tuning - Yoke tuning (different from taking cam lean out), Kitchen Sink tuning (whatever it is), arrow rest torque tuning and the list goes on. Now, here comes along "bare shaft tuning and apply grip pressure" to make bare shafts impact with fletched arrows at any distance. So I French tune like the original procedure, 9 feet out to as far as I can keep my arrow on the target bag, say 55 and 60 yards. When I'm done I can pretty much make arrows slap together from right out of the bow out to 80 yards. Ain't sayin' I'm good shot, but I get the job done for the most part. Placed and won a few Field event. So now this bare shaft / grip pressure is supposed improve upon this. I'd like to know how. Robin Hoods at a 100 yards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted June 14, 2014 Report Share Posted June 14, 2014 bare shaft tuning just helps to perfect the alignment of the arrow shaft with the alignment of the power stroke of the bow. some bows it's easier to do then others, even of the same model. so I think some bows can be tuned to be more forgiving/allow for consistent shooting more so than another bow, no matter how much times you spend tuning it. I think a "perfectly" tuned bow will shoot perfect for you but not necessarily for someone else. that said I know of very few archers that applies to that can shoot consistent enough tell the difference. I think you're best to tune a bow to it's design and for what it is and then better your shooting to help improve accuracy. so if your grip pressure is not ideal and a quirk of your shooting you're better off not tuning the bow to account for it. this would be a short term limited gains kind of fix. even if you're able to repeat the grip 7 out of 10 times perfect you're better off searching to find another unique different grip for you that maybe allows you to repeat it perfectly 8-9 out of 10 times. the bow will remain constant. even the most consistent minimal imperfections in you and your shooting won't be consistent. therefore to an extent tune yourself to the bow imperfections more than tune the bow to your imperfections as the bows imperfections are constant. when you reach a level of dropping arrows right into each other at 80-100 yards that's the only way to improve. after shooting a week you might move your rest a 1/16-1/32 of an inch and then see how that goes but you may be changing a few things with you. when you figure out how to robin hood arrows again and again, often, at 100 or even 80 yards I'll come shake your hand and get your autograph at the Olympics. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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