Metal Deer Blind


LEGONZA

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I'm an amateur welder and have made several deer blinds with square tubing.  These are covered in plywood.  I have noticed many commercial blinds that are practically like mine with one difference.  The outer plywood is covered with sheet metal that is painted in different camouflage patterns. Thus the sheet metal makes the blind invincible to weather, birds, rodents, etc...

My question is, "Has anyone experience or knowledge as to how to acquire the sheet metal used on these blinds"?

I of course am looking for this material at a reasonable price.  The commercial blinds are priced as much as three times what I can make one for.  I am thinking of contacting a steel making company in order to have this sheet metal made.

 

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Welcome to the forums. 

Good idea.  Ours is in need of a major overhaul, had not thought of using steel.  Currently the squirrels birds and wasps have taken over our 6 x 6 box blind.  Metal roofing would work, or could order straight panels that have not been crimped.  We have a metal roofing place about 20 miles away, sure they would sell the flat that has not been run through.   

Check your local building supply stores.  We have several in our area that sell metal by the foot for shed quality to house quality.  Last I checked, I could buy painted 20 year for $1.79 a linear ft for 5v crimped.

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We use a material at work called MaxMetal or Alupanel. It's basically a composite material sandwiched between two thin layers of aluminum sheeting. You could actually use this in place of the plywood. It's very durable stuff that lasts forever & is reasonably priced. You would have to paint it or wrap it in graphics though.

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TO: wtnhunt & readers,  We use flashing or valley flashing as some call, for our roofs.  Cheapness and durability is what you'll get doing it this way.  In the case of a 6x6, you would need a roll of 30" flashing.  Cut three pieces 6'-6" long.  Fold edges down for extra protection leaving the six feet.  Overlap the three pieces on roof.  Use sheet metal screws of your liking.  Can use OSB under sheet metal or plywood, whichever suits your wallet.  Have done this for many, many years. Have never had problems.

Thanks for your interest!!!

One day less before my life begins again, DEER SEASON.

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1 hour ago, LEGONZA said:

TO: wtnhunt & readers,  We use flashing or valley flashing as some call, for our roofs.  Cheapness and durability is what you'll get doing it this way.  In the case of a 6x6, you would need a roll of 30" flashing.  Cut three pieces 6'-6" long.  Fold edges down for extra protection leaving the six feet.  Overlap the three pieces on roof.  Use sheet metal screws of your liking.  Can use OSB under sheet metal or plywood, whichever suits your wallet.  Have done this for many, many years. Have never had problems.

Thanks for your interest!!!

One day less before my life begins again, DEER SEASON.

Have plywood under ondura composite for our roof.  No issues with the roof.  I need to get back there with my tractor and small trailer and take the box off the platform and bring back to my garage to work on it.  Used one inch square tubing for the wall framing.  My old Lincoln ac/dc machine I used when i built the blind would never allow me to tack sheeting on but have a 140 handler now and think i could probably tack metal to the frame with it with it turned way down.  

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  • 1 year later...

TO: wtnhunt I'm drawing out plans for a steel frame 6x6 box blind for bowhunting and I want to be able to weld up the walls, floor and roof frames at home and then bolt them together and add wood or maybe alupanel in place once.  I'm thinking of using 14 gauge 1" square tubing for the outer framework of the walls/roof and 16 gauge 3/4" square tubing for the inner framework portions of the walls/roof (square panels made of 1" and the bracing/window frames out of 3/4") to save on the overall weight of the blind. Do you think that would be adequate? I'm also an amateur welder and I've built a few tables, grills, etc., but nothing that I'm going to have to rely on to support my weight yet up on a 3 or 4 foot tower while I've got a bunch of arrows with hunting broad heads attached to the ends around me haha.  The floor frame will be all 1" square tubing and I'd love to save some weight on the walls and roof but I don't want this thing to come out too flimsy to survive a good high-winds storm in South TX.

TO: MUDRUNNER   What kind of places sell maxmetal/alupanel? I've been digging around on the internet a bit but haven't been able to locate any.

TO: LEGONZA  Did you have any luck tracking down the sheet metal that the expensive blind companies use? 

 

Sorry, I know this is an old thread but figured I'd give it a shot

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Off the top of my head, as best as I can remember anyway, I used inch and a half for my tower and floor.  Honestly don't remember the thickness.  I think I used one inch for the wall framing and roof.  I used one inch flat for bracing, probably should have used angle our channel as it does give some.

Our blind is anchored with screw in anchors, think they were at least 12 inches deep.  We have had pretty high winds, tornado force and straight line winds and no issues at all.

 

 

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