Stock Re-finishing

[Guest TerryH]

What do you guys use, or what is the best thing to put on the stock once I have oiled it or stained it, that will seal it and make it waterproof?

[AJ]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

I have used various methods of stock finishes in the past. One popular method is to use Tru Oil. You can use boiled linseed oil also. This can give a rich deep finish that is waterproof but should be touched up occasionally for best results. You can make the finish glossy or matte.

Another is an epoxy finish. I use Brownell's Glas Bed that has been thinned and coat the stock. It leaves a very tough finish that is impervious to moisture. Again, you can make a very glossy or matte finish.

Another method is also very popular and that is to use polyurethane. Its the easiest finish. It does not have the glow of a hand rubbed oil finish, but its easier.

[snapper]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

On the same note...whats the best way to take out small dents and scratches? I've heard of using a hot iron to pull out small dents...but whats actually involved in using this?

[AJ]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

In the case of a dent, as long as the grain is intact, you can raise the dent with steam. To remove a dent using steam, place a damp (not dripping wet), heavy cloth over the dent. Press with a hot clothes iron until the steam swells the wood. Rewet the cloth as it dries out. The steam causes the wood fibers to swell. Repeat this process until the dented area is level with the surrounding wood surface. Let dry, then sand.

When you sand the dent area use some finish while you are sanding. Steam opens the wood pores, sanding with finish will fill the grain with its own sawdust and finish. This is the easiest way to match the rest of the finish. If you are staining, it can be harder to get a blem free finish without refinishing the entire stock.

In areas where the wood grain has been damaged or broken such as deep scratches, about the only way to repir is to use a filler in the gap. I use Brownell's Glassbed without floc. Its thin enough to get into the pores and to the bottom of the crack, gouge whatever. It can be sanded and polished for a glossy look or hit it with a little steel wool and it will have a satin look. You can use Tru Oil over it once it has cured.

[RangerClay]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

I've done two in the past year. One was a 30-30 and the other was a hawken muzzleloader that I will post pictures of next week if you want to see it.

Both were stained with the color of my choice since neither one was real walnut. The Marlin had what I believe is birch and the muzzleloader was beech. After staining I used satin spray poly from minwax and sealer sanded each coat with 600 grit paper.

I am very happy with the results and if you have any questions just drop me a PM.

Ranger

[iron buck]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

I have used both boiled linseed oil & tru oil to refinis stocks. The tru oil is a faster method, the linseed oil took many coats & a long whille to dry. I am not sure which method will be more durable, I only used tru oil for teh first time this past summer on a Savage 99 & have yet to get that gun out in the field.

[Guest TerryH]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

If I use Linseed oil, do I need to sand, use steel wool, or rub it with something between coats?

[AJ]

Re: Stock Re-finishing

[ QUOTE ]

If I use Linseed oil, do I need to sand, use steel wool, or rub it with something between coats?

[/ QUOTE ]

That depends on how good of a job you intend to do. I would suggest doing it for the first few coats. Once you have a good base layer down, with sanding or rubbing down with 0000 steel wool, I wait till I have a few layers and do it again. This allows an even thickness and can get rid of runs or heavy spots.

Once you are done, the appearance you will choose will determine how you finish it off. You can rub it down to get a gloss finish, or lightly hit it with steel wool for a matte finish.