LifeNRA Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 I got this idea from the Fishing Room, Bass Fishing Tips! Why not apply it here as well! Lets see what tips we all can come up with! Who knows, you can never stop learning! Daytime Flash Use My tip is too use your camera's flash during the daylight hours! On an overcast day, even though there is enough light to shoot without the flash, turn it on! Set your camera to the synchronization flash setting(your flash speed that the camera uses). Take the shot! What I like to do is use Aperture Priority. This is where you have your flash mounted and turned on, and you use the aperture ring to adjust to the flash synchronization speed. Either way, this will give your pictures a more three dimensional look! This technique can also be used during a bright sunny day as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest okla_bowhunter Posted April 3, 2007 Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! Never face your trail camera to the east or west unless you have some type of cover, such as trees, to block out the sunlight. I just did it, and all my pics are glared!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted April 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! Oops! I never thought about trail cams! But yeah include them as well! LOL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted April 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! Nobody else has any tips on using your camera or trail camera? I find this hard to believe! There are many people in here who take pictures! Many people in here who might need to learn a new trick or two, myself included! Give us your tips! LOL! Oh BTW, if this thread bombs out unpin it please! LOL! But hey, thanks for pinning it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billkay Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! I'll post a few things when I get home, or get a moment. Spending some time with the family turkey hunting, striper fishing and relaxing in Nashville for the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperMn106 Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! When I take sunset pics, I like to tilt my camera up and down untill I can see the right picture in my view finder. Tilting it up lets it focus more on the skyline and not the tree line so that way you get the colors of the sky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billkay Posted April 8, 2007 Report Share Posted April 8, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! We all go through life looking at things at about the same point of view. To get a photo that will make a person pause, try taking the shot from either a low view point, (lying on the ground), or a high point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billkay Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! Regardless of how much, or how little sun or available light you have, try a couple of pix with your flash on and a couple with the flash off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted April 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2007 Re: Taking Pictures!!! Share Your Advise!!! [ QUOTE ] Regardless of how much, or how little sun or available light you have, try a couple of pix with your flash on and a couple with the flash off. [/ QUOTE ] Mentioned this Bill! You can un-pin this! I thought more would have gotten involved. No biggie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 Another vote for using fill flash, which I also highly recommend in daylight hours. BTW, fill flash also produces some nice shots with shutter priority mode. Here's a couple tips for trophy photos. 1. Position the animal so the sun is at the photographers back. 2. Remove all intervening vegetation between camera and subject. 3. The photograph should never be taken with the camera above eye level of the subject. Keep the camera low and angle the shot up wards. If you can get sky behing the horns, do it. 4. Frame the shot correctly. This kills me to even mention but I've seen so many shots where the hunter and animal look like specs in the middle of scenic landscape photo I gotta. Especially on digital cameras when it's possible to instantly review the shot there is no excuse for this. Combine those tips and you'll be ready when you get something like this 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted May 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 For those that have camera's that you can change different len's. Try adding a Circular Polarizing filter(CPL). These filters can add a ton color and deepen any area of a blue sky. They also remove any un-wanted glare. This filter has an outside ring that you turn to obtain the degree you want with just a quarter of a turn. Below are pictures taken with my digital and filter attached. I used the same apature and shutter speed for these pictures. Filter at the lowest setting. Filter at its highest setting. Notice the greens and the blue sky has more saturation of color with just a simple turn! Nothing was done on the computer here other than normal re-sizing. Hopefully this will help someone with their pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted May 30, 2007 Report Share Posted May 30, 2007 Cannot take too many shots especially with digital photography. When shooting a subject that is still, try taking multiple shots of that subject at different angles and from different distances. For shooting fast moving subjects like hummingbirds or other birds with an autofocus camera, you can pre-focus on a spot where you think you will snap the shutter prior to the bird or animal entering the frame. Picking out a limb or leaves close to or where you plan the shot ahead of time can make the difference in whether or not you get the shot at all and whether or not it is in focus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted June 4, 2007 Report Share Posted June 4, 2007 For those that have camera's that you can change different len's. Try adding a Circular Polarizing filter(CPL). These filters can add a ton color and deepen any area of a blue sky. They also remove any un-wanted glare. This filter has an outside ring that you turn to obtain the degree you want with just a quarter of a turn. Below are pictures taken with my digital and filter attached. I used the same apature and shutter speed for these pictures. Filter at the lowest setting. Filter at its highest setting. Notice the greens and the blue sky has more saturation of color with just a simple turn! Nothing was done on the computer here other than normal re-sizing. Hopefully this will help someone with their pictures. When you are using a Polarizing filter, turn on the dynamic Histogram display mode if your camera has it. This will give you a graphical depiction of the color and light to dark effect the filter is having. Turning on the Histogram display is honestly more accurate then the LCD viewer itself can deliver. Try this. It's neat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted June 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 When you are using a Polarizing filter, turn on the dynamic Histogram display mode if your camera has it. This will give you a graphical depiction of the color and light to dark effect the filter is having. Turning on the Histogram display is honestly more accurate then the LCD viewer itself can deliver. Try this. It's neat LOL! I dont have that! But what you see in these pics is what I seen in my screen. Which made me think about showing this filter use in here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted June 5, 2007 Report Share Posted June 5, 2007 Turning on the Histogram display is honestly more accurate then the LCD viewer itself can deliver. Yep, this is true. Have the option for using histogram display on my minolta. Pretty cool feature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13littleones Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 Trail Camera Tip: If you have a small ladder, place the camera 8 to 10 feet off the ground, the deer will not spook nearly as much as the flash shoots down at them. You will get alot more pictures at night of that big buck who does not like that surpise flash in his eyes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 Trail Camera Tip: If you have a small ladder, place the camera 8 to 10 feet off the ground, the deer will not spook nearly as much as the flash shoots down at them. You will get alot more pictures at night of that big buck who does not like that surpise flash in his eyes... Thanks! That's a good tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaskBrute Posted August 23, 2007 Report Share Posted August 23, 2007 same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spineshot Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 trail cam tips First thing is if you put it perpendicular to the trail and it is a stealth cam with a slow trigger, it will only get the weeds as the deer moves through the zone too fast. Put the camera so the deer is walking towards it. Make sure weeds are removed. We had pictures of weeds waving. If you are setting the camera up on a bait pile, test the camera. It might sound stupid but we walk like a deer in front of the camera to test it. If it is too low, coons and rabbits love to be filmed. If it is too high, not even a deer will trigger it. try not to face east or west. the morning and evening sun will ruin some good buck pics. Happy filming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkoholic Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 My advice would simply be, do not forget to take the camera and use it. Take a lot of pictures of anything that strikes your fancy. This is especially true of digital cameras as you simply delete the unwanted ones. Even the pros get maybe one good photo out of a hundred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hound Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Trail cams I would like to add to what I have read,it has been good advice.I like to place 2 cameras at a baiting station.One facing north or south and the other facing east or west( I do believe that it is true that the sun will give a reflection but most pics are taken at night).The reason is that a buck never does as you want him to so I try to get two different angles.I have missed on certain bucks that just would not turn around for the camera.I will also try moving the camera up higher to see if it is more affective on trails thanks for the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RUTHUNTER.COM1 Posted January 23, 2008 Report Share Posted January 23, 2008 Taking pictures of game It help's you see all the rack of deer if you lay on the ground and shoot upword to the deer with the sky in the back ground. http://www.ruthunter.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnV Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 If you have a Canon SLR - set Cn-Fn 4 to 1 and back button focus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bebout Posted August 11, 2008 Report Share Posted August 11, 2008 when I set my trailcam I try to sit it in an area where I can get somewhat of an elevated view. This way I can see just about evey detail of the deer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atthewall Posted October 17, 2008 Report Share Posted October 17, 2008 Some of the things I do when I'm running with the pixel-generator afield. Low light shots, mornings or evenings, that first or last hour of light are the magical photography moments. In low light, try to pre-expose your shots in the darker areas first, most particularly if your quarry happens to be in the shadows. In bright light, try to keep the sun at your back or in perpendicular to your photography subject. A dark background is typically better than a bright background...especially if your shot subject is glowing in the light. Learn to use manual settings if you shoot with a digital SLR camera. You can get a lot more depth and effect with your shots vs letting the camera do the thinking. Most cameras will balance evenly across the light spectrum but mixing light with dark, the camera will tend to over expose leaning on the light vs the dark values. Not a problem if your subject is in the light but it becomes an issue when the subject finds the shade. Panoramic shots, try to shoot as low as the ISO will allow for the conditions...slow speed. Lean on tripods for shots on long exposures. For wildlife, I have found pre-setting my camara to 400 ISO gives me enough to cover movement without much blur. As the sun dips down, the higher ASA setting will allow the lens to work longer without having to kick things up higher to cover. Night shots, use a tripod and lean on a timed shutter setting. Push the shutter and allow the timer to snap the shot. If you have a camera that supports a remote wireless, buy one and use it for low light or game shots. It saves you trips back and forth to and from the animal and the camera to snap multiple shots. If you're a DSLR shooter, and shoot manual mode, always check your ISO settings right after you pull the camera out of the bag. Take a few moments to make sure your setup is ready for the conditions for that day. I've had many shoot night time shots and forget they had their camera at some super high ISO setting and shoot away thinking they had it only to find out their image was a pure white screen in the LCD. As you move around and work shots, always check your light meter and aperture settings to make sure they are rolling in an acceptable exposure window. I typically check my camera all the time as I roam and as the light conditions change, I'm making changes on the fly to stay in tune with the light. Slightly underexposed shots are way better than over exposed shots. Post processing, via software, can help bring more light to a shot. It's harder to go the other way around when the light is overpowering and the subject is in the darker zone. Learn to pre focus shots if you can before the shot happens. An example of this is capturing birds in flight. Some cameras have awesome acquisition sensors coupled with fast autofocus features of the lens (AI features) but even then some shots may be dicey. So to pre-plan a goose or hawk shot, especially if I'm in an area I know these shots are prime, I will pre-focus a spot on the ground, set my exposures and settings first and then wait for that moment. The hope is my quarry will work into that photo kill zone allowing me a few frames before it clears. The closer the better and keeping your cameras speed up to 400 ISO and your aperture set for the light conditions will typically render desirable results. Experiment with your gear, don't be afraid to try manual mode shots or other settings. You can take auto shots, read the data the camera used to cover the scene and use this same information to baseline a manual setting. There are many times I will shoot a scene or shot, if it allows me to, in multiple settings. I will bracket expose my shots to cover the light spectrum with the hope one of them will be the keeper. Here's a shot made in tough lighting conditions. I knew the sun was working down fast and it's light glowing through the cypress trees over a fairly dark Guadalupe River would require some tweaking. Leaned on the tripod, set things up manually and triggered the shuuter with my wireless remote. Exposure: 1 second (softens the water flow) Aperture: f/22 (sharpens everything in view and star bursts the sun) Focal Length: 40 mm ISO Speed: 100 Tripod & Wireless remote (timer delay will work too) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.