Tuning Question From The New Guy

[Guest MFhunter27]

Hello again! Here with another question!

I was out shooting this morning and at 10 yards, my fields tips were right where i wanted them, but the bh's were a little down and to the right. I then shot at 20 yards and my ft's were dead on but my bh's were further down and and to the right! Does this mean I have to lower my nock point? Should I just compensate with my sight? Please Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you need to know, I shoot a hoyt powertec 60# with 27" draw length and beman black max 400 arrows at 9.6 gpi. They are 28" and topped with muzzy mx-4 100 grain bh's. Does that sound like a good bow/arrow match-up?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

Rich

[coles]

your set up sounds good to me and if i was in your shoes i would just move my sight. others might tell you different though.

[Swamphunter]

your set up sounds good to me and if i was in your shoes i would just move my sight. others might tell you different though.

If I were in your shoes....I would change to mechanicals. I have made my bow tuning so much easier once I switched to mechanicals as I no longer have to mess with re-tuning, or sighting in again. To be honest with you, I have no idea what adjustment you would need to make in your situation. I just know what I would do as far as bh's are concerned.

[VTbowman]

This is caused by very slight out of tune rest, nock point, and arrow spine all in one.

I had this same issue with the same heads many years ago.

I could just not get fixed blade Muzzys to fly with my field tips.

Back then I had no idea and there were no forums for me to ask. the ppro shops "played" around with my set up more time then I care to count.

I took the easy way out and switched to mech like Swampy suggested.

I have shot them ever since and they hit spot on with my field points everytime.

Its no "fix" to whats out of tune but for me it was since I do not compete with this bow and arrow set up at all. I could care less what style broadhead I had, fixed or mech, as long as it killed deer I was happy.

Every mech head I have tried has done so.

Maybe some of the target guys who also hunt can hook you up with this...

[wtnhunt]

Honestly if I were you, I would shoot the broadheads with practice blades and not worry about shooting the field points at all. Then adjust your sights for the broadheads since that is what you will be hunting with.

Get pretty darned consistent groupings with the muzzy 3 blade 100 grain heads, very rarely shoot field tips, but when I do, they are right there with the broadheads.

[dg]

If there is a progressive difference between 10 and 20, you need to tune. The arrows sound stiff enough. At that poundage and speed, you shouldn't be seeing a differnce between 10 and 20.

- ensure you have vane clearance and the arrows are not bouncing off (up) off the rest

(a slight twist may make the vanes clear the rest)

- try tweaking the nock point down the string or up if it's slamming the arrow down on the rest

- try adjusting the rest spring tension to a lighter setting

- make sure the bh's spin on the shaft good without wobble (on a smooth arrow point)

- make sure you don't have the arrow nock pinched in between nock points to tight

- make sure the vanes are not contacting the side buss cable or string

[LifeNRA]

I think it was Steve (Buckee) that gave me this site.

http://www.newarchery.com/

Hold your cursor over the "Resources" tab, then click on "Tips". Follow the instructions there on how to get your FT and BH to hit the same spot.

I had the same problems. Except my BH were only hitting low. Turns out, I only had to move my nock a bit, since I could not move the rest up or down. Which is why now I will only buy a rest from now on that allows me to move it up or down.