muzzy916 Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 im shooting a tech hunter extrem by bow tech and i sighted it in with my fields tips and was good up to 50 yards, but when i shot my broad heads i was only good up to 20 yards after that i am shooting about a foot high and to the right, can some one help me out so i can fix it, i have no clue what to do thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzzy916 Posted August 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MichiganHunter Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Well i have a Black Ice which is made by Diamond a branch of bow tech and i have not had alot of luck with fixed blade's...the only fixed blades that i ever had shoot GOOD were flat but i changed to Mechanicals and they hold there pattern 80% better but never quite as good as field tips.....umm....also you might want to check that you are using the same grain weight with your field points as your broad heads....I know that when i first started out that was one thing i messed up when i first got into hunting....i'm am currently shooting NAPA Spitfire 100 grain broad heads and the 2 deer i shot with my bow last year were devostated both doe's but the biggest was 175lbs dressed and she only went 38 yards after a 30 yard shot.....OH...and if you swap to a mechanical what ever you use i always sight in my field points about 2 inches high of dead center and that seams to be the ticket....BUT good luck this season Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Welcome to the forums. Could be and probably is a tuning problem with your bow, or could possibly be your arrow/broad head setup. What heads are you shooting? Have you spin tested your arrows with the heads, are the heads the same weight as the field points? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michihunter Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Use this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lungbuster12point06 Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 I would also guess it is a tuning problem...............you probably should find a reputable pro-shop that can help you tune it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzzy916 Posted August 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 well my pep sight messed up about a month ago after i was in and everything was good then but after i fixed it is when it messed up, i know im shooting the same grain but not sure how to spin test my arrow and head but thank you i will try expandables Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 I would also guess it is a tuning problem...............you probably should find a reputable pro-shop that can help you tune it. Good luck! well my pep sight messed up about a month ago after i was in and everything was good then but after i fixed it is when it messed up, i know im shooting the same grain but not sure how to spin test my arrow and head but thank you i will try expandables Get to your local shop and ask them about paper tuning your bow. That will find a lot of problems. Then it can be fixed by doing this. Paper tuning is not hard to do. Switching to expandables is not the answer to fix your problems. You have to get your arrows shooting straight out of the bow, paper tuning will help solve this. You could have other problems with your bow that your not aware of! String worn out, timing, center shot is off, and others. A pro shop can help you To spin test your broadheads(BH's), place the BH down on a flat surface. Spin the arrow, if you see any wobble, the BH is not true to the shaft. Using a G5 A.S.D. tool can sometimes help with this. This tool will square the insert to the shaft allowing for a true spin. This should also be done before the inserts are glued inside the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shtr Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Paper tuning is worth the paper that your going to shoot through. Do a walk back tune. Your rest is high and right....need to come down and left. Michi hunters chart and some shooting time is all that you need. Forget the paper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted August 19, 2007 Report Share Posted August 19, 2007 Paper tuning is worth the paper that your going to shoot through. Do a walk back tune. Please explain, walk back tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shtr Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 Please explain, walk back tune. Very simple thing. step by step..... #1 draw a vertical and horizontal line on your target butt (use a level) #2 At 10 yards sight the first pin in to hit the horizontal line. #3 move back to 20 yards and shoot the horizontal line with that same pin. If you are above the line then drop the rest until you hit the line (1/16" at a time max.) If you are below the line , raise the rest. #4 move back to 10 yards and shoot the vertical line. Adjust the pin to hit the line. #5 Move back to 20 yards and shoot the same line. If you are right , move the rest left. If you are left move the rest right until the arrow is on the line. Each time you move the rest for horizontal or vertical , shoot to determine the next adjustment. You can take the vertical line out to 40 yards and should if you have the shooting ability. This method requires you to have good form. Now that you are tuned it is time to go to a braodhead. Choose a quality broadhead and repeat the above method to fine tune that head to your rig. Final step .... go dump a buck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 What if you cant move the rest up or down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 What if you cant move the rest up or down? John, I would assume if the rest is not movable in the up or down direction, the only option would be to raise or lower your nock point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michihunter Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 John, I would assume if the rest is not movable in the up or down direction, the only option would be to raise or lower your nock point. That would change your anchor point. I believe Shtr's horizontal line tuning procedure is in error as well. There is no way every bow will have the same poi from 10-20 yards. That portion of tuning should be done with a broadhead test/tune in my opinion. If my bow shoots at 300fps and someone elses shoots at 220fps, I would expect different results from 10-20 yards. I believe he's assuming that all bows will shoot flat out to 20 yards.I do however agree that the windage portion of his procedure is spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shtr Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 That would change your anchor point. I believe Shtr's horizontal line tuning procedure is in error as well. There is no way every bow will have the same poi from 10-20 yards. That portion of tuning should be done with a broadhead test/tune in my opinion. If my bow shoots at 300fps and someone elses shoots at 220fps, I would expect different results from 10-20 yards. I believe he's assuming that all bows will shoot flat out to 20 yards.I do however agree that the windage portion of his procedure is spot on. All bows of modern design that are @ 50# will shoot a flat arrow to 20 yards. Even a traditional recurve @ 45# will throw an arrow flat to 15 yards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michihunter Posted August 20, 2007 Report Share Posted August 20, 2007 All bows of modern design that are @ 50# will shoot a flat arrow to 20 yards. Even a traditional recurve @ 45# will throw an arrow flat to 15 yards. Have you forgotten that that is subjective to the weight of the arrow? Here ya go, see if this concurs with those comments: http://home.att.net/~sajackson/ballistics.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shtr Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 Have you forgotten that that is subjective to the weight of the arrow? Here ya go, see if this concurs with those comments: http://home.att.net/~sajackson/ballistics.html You are correct in as much as there can be a weight that will drop the arrow earlier but there isn't one that is in the general range of 7gpp which would be the norm of the modern equipment seen in the field today. As to the chart ..... I respect BoJacksons site but that particular chart is voodoo at it's best. I have kids shooting flat within 1" with 40# bows to 25yrds with 5gpp. It's all good on paper but when it comes to the real thing.... charting tables such as this are generally is nothing better than use as a reference guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michihunter Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 All I know is that with my setup I'm shooting lower at 10 yards as opposed to 20. You being a 3D specialist, maybe you can tell us why you use a longer distance pin to shoot up close targets instead of the 20 yard pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mil Posted August 21, 2007 Report Share Posted August 21, 2007 I still think paper tune is the way to go.Never seen a bow in the 220-250fps.shoot the same @ 10yds.&20yds.At least 1 to 3ins.difference. Must be that light northern air.Don't shhot that way down south.LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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