Factor Ammo Inconsistency


StillLearnin

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I have been putting quite a few rounds through my rifle lately trying different brands and weights. I have gotten 3/4" and one 1/2" group but most are around 1 1/4". The one thing I notice the most is how much a round can vary coming out of the same box.

I shoot a Remington 700 30-06 and have shot Winchester 150 and 165 gr. Power Points, Remington Core loks 150 and 165 grains, and Federal 150 Grains.

I know for maximum accuracy I need to reload, but I won't have a reloaded unitl around this time next year.

My question is do the more expensive rounds have tighter quality control than the less expensive rounds. Or are they more expensive because of the bullet type.

Thanks,

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There are definately incosistancies in a lot of the cheaper ammo. You said you tried Federal 150 grain, were those the $9.00 per box stuff, or their Premium brand?

I always wonder if the premium stuff is worth it. If you are getting 1" groups or better with Core Locts, what more do you want / need?

I have a hard time paying $1.50 a shell...

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You have to remember the old days where a 4x8 sheet of plywood with a paper plate in the middle was the target. The words "good enough" were usually spoken multiple times and the gun went back in the case. 1 1/4 inch groups from standard factory loads is realistically pretty darn good. I don't shoot them anymore because I was unhappy with how the cheaper bullets performed once they hit the animal. For my rifle the cheap federals shot awesome but the bullets blew up. Each gun will shoot different brands differently. I would pick out the bullet type that matches the game you are hunting, then shoot the brands that load it if you don't or can't reload yourself. It takes time to find out what works the best for you. Once your find the right combination, you'll be happy for a long long time after!

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Inconsistant meaning inaccurate? If so, some ammo won't shoot as well as others in any given rifle. I bought a box of premium Win. ammo for my wifes .308 and the groups were about 4" at best. Shot some cheap white box stuff and the groups shrank by about half. I now reload and have found a load that gives sub MOA. My 700 shoots everything I've tried pretty well but the cheap federal stuff was unbelieveably accurate. Just because it's "premium" ammo doesn't mean it's super accurate but you are typically buying a load with a better bullet.

I believe in premium bullets but in order to find an accurate load it's just too expensive if you use factory loads. Thats why I starting reloading. I can choose the bullet I want and work up the most accurate load for that particular bullet.

The most consistant bullet I've found for all of my rifles was the Nosler Partition. I use it in my wifes .308, daughters .260, and my 350 rem mag. I do not use it in my 06' as the 150 grn partition wasn't as accurate as I would like so I use the Swift Scirrocco.

I agree with missed160 in his point about you shooting the corelokts so well. What more do you need? Thats what I would use until you start reloading.

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Hornady suggests with its custom rifle loads that you will get as good or better performance than that of an average handloader could reload to. That ammo is not too terribly priced either and I have considered giving it a try, but for me with the old tried and trusted model 700 in .270, the 150 grain core lokts have proven to be the most accurate round at the distances I have used the rifle for hunting deer. I have tried winchester ammo, ballistic silver tips, power point plus, and also tried the 130 grain core lokts, my best groupings are always with the cheap 150 grain core lokts, just seems to be what that rifle prefers and it does not hurt my feelings one bit. Honestly here where shots are limited to under 250 yards and more commonly not over 200 yards, if i am getting 1 inch groupings at 100 yards, which I do with the core lokts, I am confident that I can put my shot where I want it.

Really honestly dont know that QC for manufacturers would hold any lesser tolerances for the lower lines of ammo, but guess they could.

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First off I am not writing off any particular brand.

Second I know I am not that great of a shot, but on a regular day I shoot relatively good groups and I can tell when I had a bad hold, put too much pressure on the grip, had a poor pull, etc. I can also tell when I went through my routine the same as the last two or three shots and I end up with a flier. Maybe it is me maybe not.

I was simply wondering what seperates a $40.00 box of ammo from a $9.00 dollar box. All of the ammo I have shot recently is the cheap stuff $9.00 to $15.00.

Thanks

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Your getting a better bullet as I answered earlier. Corelokts can and do fall apart when hitting hard odjects (bone). There are waaaaayyyyyy better bullets to be had to improve penetration. I think premium ammo is overpriced for sure but the bullets themselves are far better than the cheap stuff.

Not to sound like a smart alec, but by saying bullet I don't mean the whole round. Just the part that does the killing. Premium bullets are far better than the cheapest one offered by the ammo makers.

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Guest leaddogext
I have been putting quite a few rounds through my rifle lately trying different brands and weights. I have gotten 3/4" and one 1/2" group but most are around 1 1/4". The one thing I notice the most is how much a round can vary coming out of the same box.

I shoot a Remington 700 30-06 and have shot Winchester 150 and 165 gr. Power Points, Remington Core loks 150 and 165 grains, and Federal 150 Grains.

I know for maximum accuracy I need to reload, but I won't have a reloaded unitl around this time next year.

My question is do the more expensive rounds have tighter quality control than the less expensive rounds. Or are they more expensive because of the bullet type.

Thanks,

GO TO CPCARTRIDGE.COM THEY'LL LOAD YOU CUSTOM LOADS AT OFF THE SHELF PRICES. EVERYBODY WITH A 30-06 THAT I HUNT WITH SAY THEY HAVE BETTER LUCK WITH 180GR BULLETS ?

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Is it the ammo or is it you?? Best thing for you to do (before you write off a particular brand) is to get a chronograph and see how consistent (or inconsistent) each lot is. You may be surprised. I know, for me, the difference between a 1/2" group and an 1 1/4" group is undoubtedly operator error. ;)

I would also use a Lead-sled just to make sure that shooter error is out of the equation!

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