My Tikka T3 likes Hornady Light Mags


Leo

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Nice!!! I just picked one up in the .308 caliber but haven't had the time to take it to the range yet.

Awesome gun, glad I own one too!!!!

If I throw out that one impact out the group, your looking at a 1/2" diameter 3 shot group at 100yds. With factory ammo that's incredible accuracy. Folks will pay big bucks and reload a lot of shells to get a rifle to shoot 1 MOA. 1/2 MOA with factory rounds is a huge bonus.

The Tikka trigger is one of the best kept secrets about the gun. It can be adjusted way down (though you may not need to) and still remain very crisp and consistent.

The Sako Optilock rings that fit the Tikka are expensive but very very good. They are sturdy light and require no lapping to true them. The rings that come with the Tikka are OK but the Optilocks are definitely better.

The stock recoil pad on the Tikka is a joke. For a 308 it might be fine. On the 30-06 especially with the light mag stuff the Limbsaver replacement pad really makes this rifle much more enjoyable at the bench.

Your 308 will like 165s or 180s the best. Finn's like heavy bullets and the twist in their rifles is cut for that. So save your money and skip testing the lighter rounds ;)

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Leo, I am glad your Tikka is shooting 1 inch groups, I just picked up a T3 in 270 WSM and it doesnt shoot worth a hill of beans. There is either a problem with the Zeiss 4.5x14 that's mounted in Warne rings or a bad bedding problem. I think it's the later due to how the rifle is held.

Federal Premium 130 Barnes TSX factory ammo was used. When the rifle is shot so as to have free recoil it really sprays em as in the group shot in the middle.

1sttikkagrps.jpg

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Leo, I am glad your Tikka is shooting 1 inch groups, I just picked up a T3 in 270 WSM and it doesnt shoot worth a hill of beans. There is either a problem with the Zeiss 4.5x14 that's mounted in Warne rings or a bad bedding problem. I think it's the later due to how the rifle is held.

Federal Premium 130 Barnes TSX factory ammo was used. When the rifle is shot so as to have free recoil it really sprays em as in the group shot in the middle.

The first thing I'd do is make absolutely certain the free float in the barrel channel is clear. The Tikka synthetic stocks are glass/thermoplastic and these will stress relieve a little. Once the stock has some age on it the shape drifting will stop. You can open up the barrel channel with a piece of Scotchbrite and careful sanding.

While you got the action out. Go ahead and adjust the trigger. There's only one screw to adjust and another screw prevents you from turning it out too far. Look in the Tikka manual. Screw it out as far as it will go. Put a drop of REMOVABLE Loctite on the threads. Screw it in about 4 full turns then back it out 3 1/2 turns. That will get the loctite in the internal threads so it will do you some good. ALWAYS check any trigger work by purposely slamming the action closed real hard and bumping the action and bolt with the heel of your palm a several times. If the slam or bump tests cause a dry fire then tighten up the trigger screw a half turn and try again.

Warne rings are real good, but honestly I don't know how tight Tikka holds the tolerances for the mount hole locations for those bases. Just a little bit off and you might be stressing the receiver with the scope when you tighten the rings down. Usually I believe lapping rings is a waste of time. But it is something to look at. This is exactly why I went with Optilock rings as that design eliminates that issue. Especially with a 30mm tube you really can put significant stress on a receiver with rings that are a little off.

Since you've now had the rifle apart and it's a new gun. Go shoot the gun with some cheaper ammo to get it hot. Don't try for groups just get the gun hot. While the action is hot tighten the action screws a little more. You might be surprised at how loose they get when the action is hot.

Before you try for groups again, give the bore a real good cleaning. I suggest using Shooters Choice. Follow the instructions on the jar exactly. The bore conditioners in Shooters Choice really help new rifles.

When shooting off a bench, absolutely make sure the front rest is as close to the front of the receiver as possible. It takes very little pressure to affect the barrel channel if you try and support the gun under the free float.

And finally, I will tell you that I don't know anyone who has a Tikka that will shoot light bullets. Mine in 30-06 is no exception. It won't group 150s worth a darn. Go up to 180s and it's a different gun.

Try 140gr Federal High Energy Trophy Bonded Bear Claws or some 150gr Sierra Gamekings.

Hopes this helps.

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Thanks Leo, I beleive this is a bedding problem. It does bother me when you say that you need to support the forend as close as possible to the action. For me it's not natural by holding the forend so close, in the real world I am either going to be holding the rifle a little further out or using some sort of rest such as a shooting stick, tree limb, rock etc. I am used to shooting precission rifles and had it in my hard head that this thing was going to shoot better out of the box but this is early in the race so maybe it's going to take some tweaking, I picked up some Remington Preimer 140 gr and some Nosler Custom 140 Nosler AB to try.

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Thanks Leo, I beleive this is a bedding problem. It does bother me when you say that you need to support the forend as close as possible to the action. For me it's not natural by holding the forend so close, in the real world I am either going to be holding the rifle a little further out or using some sort of rest such as a shooting stick, tree limb, rock etc. I am used to shooting precission rifles and had it in my hard head that this thing was going to shoot better out of the box but this is early in the race so maybe it's going to take some tweaking, I picked up some Remington Preimer 140 gr and some Nosler Custom 140 Nosler AB to try.

Honestly it's not just a Tikka thing. My experience with synthetic stocked rifles with free floated barrels has taught me I'm a threat to eliminate the free float when I put my "Leopaws" on it.

I'm not alone. I have heard of people epoxying in pieces of carbon arrow inside the forearms of their synthetic stocked rifles to stiffen them up.

Have someone do the dollar bill test on the barrel while you're trying to hold the rifle in the bags. That will let you know if this is an issue for you .

BTW, bet the 140gr Nosler ABs will shoot very good.

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Guest gunny97

Tikka rifles

I have a Tikka in a 7 Mag and i did a few things to it to get the right groups .Made sure the Barrell is floated , Polished the feed ramp. debur the trigger group and then had a guy work up loads for me . I found that 150 grain CT ballistic silver tip hit great with less than 1/2 MOA at 100.

We ablied those same things to a 270 using a 165 grain(it didnt like the 150) and got 1MOA at 100 Yard.

Due to a bad scope problem in transit i had to mount a BSA contender on it when i got to montana for a mule deer hunt.

at 495 yards 1 shot in the heart i drop him.

these guns are great and tuff too . i would suggest doing thoase few things to the gun and go to hand loads

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My wife got me a T-3 in .300 WSM for my birthday in 06. I love everything about it. I had it to the range last week and shot 5 rounds at 100 yds and it looked like one .400" hole... got to love the Tikka.

I am reloading the Sierra 165 gr HPBT and it is doing great.

BTW: Dad has a T-3 SS .25-06 and shot about 200 90 to 100 gr reloads and fac rounds and could not get it to shoot, got some Fed 117 gr fac loads and 3 shots was touching at 100 yds. He got on the web site and asked them about this and they told him that: The Tikka is set up for bullets on the upper end of the Cal loading... so look at the 140's and 150 and you should get what you are looking for...

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I'm using Hornady Magnum 139SST in my 7mmRemMag and it seems to like them as well. In spite of the heavy load, the rifle is really comfortable to shoot a box or three of shells out of. At 32.33 a box tho I dont target shoot with it.

This eve I discovered that if I switch to my 270, as it's a much lighter rifle for my mtns here, I can get Hornady Light Mags for it and duplicate the 7mag flight( but of course not the energy). I am not surprised at your groupings. Thanks for posting Leo.

Sorry I missed meeting you when you were out here to ColoSprings.

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I missed meeting quite a few folks I would have liked to have. The trip was just too short.

Hopefully next time I'll be there more than just two days and get to hunt.

Heck Leo just put in for some rifle tags and come hunt next year. Any of us Coloruffians can guide you thru the tangled web of applying for draw tags :). Or get you an OTC rifle bull tag and enjoy a long or short hunt.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Very nice! I was looking at one of those on my lunchbreak today, they're a nice weapon! :cool:

Shaun - is there a gun shop or outdoors store near Ottawa? I'm always on the lookout for one when there for work and the only one I've found so far was actually up in Deep River - nice shop and he stocked a few Tikkas.

Leo - Thanks for the wealth of info - I'll be trying some of your ideas. I shoot the Tikka T3 Lite stainless in 7mm Rem Mag and love it. Will be trying it in Quebec later this month for caribou. For deer (and caribou) I prefer to use 150 grain, and the best groupings I've had to date are with the Federal Fusions.

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I prefer to use 150 grain, and the best groupings I've had to date are with the Federal Fusions.

The Fusions shot great for me as well (very very nice grouping actually better than the Hornady's). Unfortunately, I am not impressed with their performance on game. Maybe the 7mm versions do better, it's possible. I used the 180gr 30-06 loads and my impression is that these bullets are quite fragile. No way, no how would I recommend the 30cal size ones for elk sized game. The exit holes are small (if you get one) and the blood trail as a result is sparse. If you're hunting deer size stuff in open country, they are probably a good choice. In the thick stuff however IMHO you're better off with good old green box core-lokts.

Caribou aren't notoriously tough and the country they roam is about as open as it gets. So the fusions may work just fine for you. Plus 7mm might be just a small enough diameter to give these bullets a little extra penetration edge they need. I honestly don't know. I do know that I won't be using them for deer around here anymore no matter how good they kill paper.

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