Long or Short bows??


Randy

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I don't pay much attention to the axle-to-axle length anymore. I only look at the ATA to see how compact the bow is. I look at the riser length instead.

Longer ATA bows do shoot a little better (more forgiving). Most of today's short ATA bows have parallel limbs. The limbs get so parallel because of longer risers. The riser on my Switchback is about the same length as the riser was on my old XTEC (XTEC is about 3" longer ATA). My Switchback shoots and holds as good or better at all distances than the XTEC ever did, even though the XTEC was longer ATA. The risers on most of todays short ATA bows are the same size or longer than some of todays longer ATA bows, so the shorter bows shoot much more like a longer bow.

I would buy a short ATA bow with parallel limbs anyday over a longer ATA bow. Next time you are in a proshop get a Switchback XT or Drenalin and line up the riser to a 38" ATA bow. You'll see what I mean. ;)

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Chrud has a good point about riser length. The more weight there is away from the shooters hand the more resistant the bow will be to tipping forward or back when the arrow is released. With an overdraw and open handed grip this was a big issue. Nowadays, overdraws aren't all that common and drop away rests do help (though the do not eliminate this issue).

The finger pinch issue isn't there if you shoot with a string loop and release. Without a loop a short ATA can still be a problem. If you try to shoot a short ATA bow without a loop and simply hook the release below the nock. The nock tends to climb off the string because of the angle of the bowstring.

Bottom line, you can get most any bow to balance correctly in your hand by adjusting the distance the stabilizer sticks out in front. Go to the hardware store get some different length spacer nuts and some different length set screws that fit the stabilizer hole. Experiment with different spacings until that bow sits vertically in your open hand.

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ATA is ATA and its all in preferance to the shooter. When they first started hitting the market, the biggest seller was its so compact and versitle in the treestand. I don't care if its a 30" ATA or a 42" ATA; it all comes down to the brace height. If you've got a short ATA bow with a brace height of 6 1/4", it'll eat your lunch and the same goes for long ATA bows. I've got a 39" ATA bow with a 6 1/4" brace height and its not forgiving at all, you bobble what so ever and the shot is histroy. Shorter bows with more parrell limbs allows for a greter brace; equaling a more forgiving bow to shot. As for a trestand bow, I can only think of one occassion that I needed a shorter ATA bow because it was hitting a branch, but that was a high risk shot anyway and I ended up not taking it on a deer directly behind me. Beside, if I would have taken the time to cut a branch out of the way ATA wouldn't have been a problem. Pesonally I won't own a bow under 37" ATA, there is no advantage in my opinion. The parallel limb concept is taking away rom the limbs are supposed to be used for and that is absorbing most of the shock from the shot. The risers are taking most of the shock now fromt he shot and the only thing the limbs are serving as is a holder for the cams or wheels. JMHO

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Thanks everybody, I'm torn on what bow I am going to buy. I really like the Ross Cardiac, however you can never rule out Matthews. I was shooting a PSE Firestorm Lite. This bow had a 8 1/4" Brace height!! Now adays it seems like 7" is a lot. I Like the DXT from Matthews because it is a short bow like my PSE. I guess I just don't know. :rolleyes::)

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Guest J-Daddy

I personally shoot a longer AtoA bow better at long range...20 & 30 yards I shoot them all the same but when the yardage hits 50yds and further the longer bows shoot alot better for me. My current rig is a Martin Slayer Extreme and it's 38" AtoA with a 7" brace height....For me it's about the perfect specs for 3-D & Hunting. I've owned alot of short bows but I just dont shoot them as good as a longer bow.

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