Ethan Givan Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 With the end of kenucky's bow season last week Im beginning to think about my set up for next year. One thing Im thinking on changing is my arrow length. My draw length is 28 inches but my arrows I used this year were 31 or 32 inches long. The reason I left them so long is because the guy at the bow shop said the longer the arrow the better they will fly. My question is should I leave my arrows long for better flight or cut them to 29 inches to increase my FPS. I missed a 6 pointer with these arrows back in October at 30 yards because he jumped the string. Would shorter arrows have shot fast enough so he could not have jumped the string? Thanks in advance for your guys advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 You can about 5" off of those, and depending on the gpi, could drop a good 40gr off your total arrow weight. That deer would have most likely jumped the string no matter how fast you were shooting. I had a doe duck my arrow this year at 25yds. It doesn't take them long to react to an unfamiliar sound. And if your draw length is 28", you can cut them down to about 27 1/2" and be okay, but check the spine on your arrows at that length, the shorter, the stiffer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okiedog Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 I'll tell you up front.... arrow setup can go as far as you want to go and then some. There are several things to consider. Bow draw length, bow draw weight, arrow length, tip weight, arrow weight, spine, FOC, the list goes on and on. It sometimes gets over whelming. Let me think on this a bit before I answer fully. My mind is still shot from yesterday trying to paper tune my bow:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontHunter Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 I missed a 6 pointer with these arrows back in October at 30 yards because he jumped the string. Would shorter arrows have shot fast enough so he could not have jumped the string? Thanks in advance for your guys advice. Just think of it this way .. The speed of sound is 1130 ft/s can you name one bow that can shoot this fast ?? I would say you can't so I would say that, that 6 pt. would still have jumped that string.. Now with that said, what can we do to help with this problem.. The answer is silence , do everything you can to make your bow and equipment more silent .. I'll tell you up front.... arrow setup can go as far as you want to go and then some. There are several things to consider. Bow draw length, bow draw weight, arrow length, tip weight, arrow weight, spine, FOC, the list goes on and on. It sometimes gets over whelming. There it is in a nutshell ,, your specs will determine your setup .. I also agree with Gator ,, you will be able to lose some shaft length, but this will be determined after the above info is available . I don't know why your bow shop would tell you that longer arrows fly straighter .. :confused: That just isn't the case .. A properly tuned bow and arrow shaft makes it fly straighter.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethan Givan Posted January 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Thanks for the info guys. Here is my setup: Martin Saber 65# 28" draw 5575 Expedition Hunter Goldtip Arrows Muzzy 125s I dont understand most of that stuff about spine, or FOC. I just go by my bow shop's advice which I am beginning to doubt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Thanks for the info guys. Here is my setup: Martin Saber 65# 28" draw 5575 Expedition Hunter Goldtip Arrows Muzzy 125s I dont understand most of that stuff about spine, or FOC. I just go by my bow shop's advice which I am beginning to doubt. 32" arrow with a 125gr head--that's a heavy arrow. Like Luke said, no bow is going to be able to beat the speed of sound, so silence it, and shoot an arrow that's lighter, thus shooting flatter, thus minimizing the effects of a poor shot. I'd agree with gator, go with a 27.5" arrow and I'd lighten up to a 100gr head, or even lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HUNTINGMAN Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 Shortin your arrows and mayby try the blazer vanes,they helped my arrow flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gator Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 I'll tell you up front.... arrow setup can go as far as you want to go and then some. There are several things to consider. Bow draw length, bow draw weight, arrow length, tip weight, arrow weight, spine, FOC, the list goes on and on. It sometimes gets over whelming. Let me think on this a bit before I answer fully. My mind is still shot from yesterday trying to paper tune my bow:rolleyes: I'll second this is well. You can take arrow building just as far as you want to go. I have spent a considerable amount of time building arrows to get them to the FOC, weight and spine that I wanted them to be at. Ethan, go to GT's web site, they have a couple of different links as far as figuring spine and FOC. Read through some of that, and it may help you out, then if you have a question, come in here and ask. As far as what you are shooting, 5575's cut to around 27.5" should be plenty long. I just looked, and you are borderline for 7595's, but I THINK you can get away with the 5575's as short as they are. I am borderline between 5575's and 3555's, and I shoot 5575's. www.goldtip.com http://www.goldtip.com/downloads/2006sizing-chart.pdf http://www.goldtip.com/calculators/foc.asp Trey, you ready to help me get mine paper tuned now?:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Shooter Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 WOW! Yes, all those specs do apply to your arrows and I'd bet my next paycheck you are way under spined with your arrow that long and shooting a 125 head. Yes, longer arrows shoot better but primarily for field archery. These guys shoot full length arrows just for that reason, but not hunting. I've got a Martin Slayer extreme set at 67# and shoot the 5575's at 27 3/4" long with a 75 grain head and they perform great. Do yourself a favor and cut them down, it'll improve your bows performance and increase your confidence. Your FOC (front of center) might go forward a bit with the 125's, more than likely you'll need to drop down in head weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ethan Givan Posted January 31, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 Alright, I went to the links Gator put on here, and if Im looking at that chart correctly I would have to drop down to an 85 grain head with my draw weight and arrow size. Then using the FOC calculator it said my FOC was 9.16%. What exaclty does that mean? Im not used to all this stuff. Everytime I buy arrows I go to the bow shop and pick the arrows that look good and are the cheaper. Im not doing that anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Shooter Posted January 31, 2008 Report Share Posted January 31, 2008 You get what you pay for, especially with arrows. The FO?C is the Front Of Center balance on the arrow. You want your weight to be forward but not to forward. If your weight is rearward then you have the fletched end of the arrow trying to out run the front end, cause bad arrow flight. If the front end is to heavy then the fletched end can't do it job and stabilize the shaft in flight, causing bad arrow flight. Basically, if you take your arrow and try to balance it on your finger; you want about a third of the shaft on the broad head end when balancing. Some arrow manufacturers are making their arrows to FOC, so you don't have to worry about it when you set up with their shafts. You will pay substantially more for these shafts, but you get what you pay for. FOC is easy to obtain if you do your homework and follow the guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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