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too_pointer

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Wellcome to the forums comppro smile.gif Your distance from eye to scope will depend on what your eye relief is for that particular scope. The longer your eye relief is , the further you can keep the scope from your eye.

I have scopes that have a 4" eye relief, and others that are shorter. You also will tell by how you can see while looking through it. You will always have to be a certain distance to get a full, clear picture. I hope this helps some smile.gif

too_pointer

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Re: question

AJ may correct some of this, but this is how I set up a scope.

I set the scope as low as possible to my gun. My guns all have hammers so I use medium high rings to clear the hammer.

I put the scope in the rings and tighten them up just enough so they don't move freely.

I shoulder the gun several times and move the scope back and forth untill it comes up and I can clearly see through it every time, while also is as far from my eye as possible. I do this on the highest setting for my scope.

I set the gun on a rest and make sure it is plum (straight up and down) then find a corner of a building or wall that I can turn the scope on to make sure the cross hairs are straight up and down.

I then make sure that the scope is where I want it by shouldering the gun several times on the highest power.

After doing that I put some locktight on the screws and tighten it down.

When shooting, I keep both eyes open and on the target, pull the gun up to my eye. (don't take your eye to the gun if you're like me, you'll loose the target) and put my cheak firmly on the stock of the gun. This position is easier for me to keep adiquate control of the gun and it is more condusive for accuracy.

Befor you do any of this make sure it's ok with AJ. He knows more than me. grin.gif

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Re: question

I don't remember if the 870 is drilled and tapped or not. Look at the top of the reciever (where ther shells come out when you pump it) if there are some screws on top then it is drilled and tapped. If it is you can go to a gun shop or maybe wal-mart and get a "Weaver" Rail for it or you may be able to find a set of rings for that gun. If it is then just attach the rail or the rings and follow my other instructions.

If it's not tapped then you have two options for mounting a scope.

1. Take it to a gunsmith and have it tapped.

If you do this he can mount a scope for you, and will most likely do a good job and will probibly bore sight it to boot.

2. You can get a mount made by a company called B-Square. This mount attaches to the reciever of your gun on the outside. It's realtively simple and if you can read instructions and are at all mechanically inclined it's something fairly easy to do.

If you go with the B-Sqare, it will have a Weaver rail on it and you will need to get rings for it.

I checked on pricing for the B-Square and having my shotgun drilled and tapped. Both were less than $60.

Sorry if I sound condicending, but when I ask a question I would rather have more info than I need than not enough.

Good luck. jf

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Re: question

Comppro,

Scopes are typically used just for rifles, slug guns, or turkey guns when extremely tight chokes are used. This will allow more accurate placement of the bullet, slug, or tight shot cloud. For wing shooting, you don't want a scope. Your bead setup will work just fine for most shooting. You can shoot clays, upland game (grouse, quail, pheasants, etc), small game (rabbit, squirrel, etc) turkeys, and even use some close range slug shooting with your current setup.

The Rem 870 does not come drilled and tapped. Remington and most gunsmiths say the receiver is too thin to hold a scope and still handle the recoil of the slug or turkey loads. You can get a saddle mount like John mentioned that straddles the action, or you can get a cantilever mount that attaches to your vent rib. Remember, every time you take the scope off you will have to go back to the range and re-zero the scope.

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