Tominator Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Having some trouble with water pressure. Water will flow fine, then come to nearly a stop, then I hear the well pump kick on and pressure comes back. We've had this problem before, but I can't remember what the plumber did to fix the problem. Seems to me he replaced the pressure gauge. Any ideas? And, is this an easy fix for a non plumbing moron? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archerjg Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Try replacing the pressure switch and gauge. It will either be a 30/50 or 20/40 switch depending on the age of the system. Just the same as the current one is hooked up. We have to replace the switch and gauge on our well at least once a year sometimes twice if the hoodlums vandalize the pump house. Archerjg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OJR Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Your tank might be "water logged" also! Too much water in the tank and not enough room for the air! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muff Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Your tank might be "water logged" also! Too much water in the tank and not enough room for the air! thats what I was thinking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckee Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Your taking too short of a shower, and confusing the dang thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NS whitetail Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Your tank might be "water logged" also! Too much water in the tank and not enough room for the air! stole my thoughts, oh well, you saw the ? first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Pressure switch or the tank air pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted April 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Your tank might be "water logged" also! Too much water in the tank and not enough room for the air! The gauge never drops below 15 pounds or so, even when there's no water pressure. I know how to check the air pressure, but how do you "unwaterlog" it if that's the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 The gauge never drops below 15 pounds or so, even when there's no water pressure. I know how to check the air pressure, but how do you "unwaterlog" it if that's the problem? Might try cutting the breaker for the well, then letting a faucet run until it runs out of water. Then leave the faucet open and cut the well back on. What that will do basically is bleed out air and possibly increase the pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted April 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Might try cutting the breaker for the well, then letting a faucet run until it runs out of water. Then leave the faucet open and cut the well back on. What that will do basically is bleed out air and possibly increase the pressure. I'll try that right now William, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob LeBlanc Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 If it's waterlogged, Tominator, you want to cut the power to the pump and drain off your water storage tank. There should be a tap at the base of the tank. Do NOT open your faucets at your sinks as this will let air into the lines, which you do not want to do. Once the tank is drained, check your pressure gauge and it should be at zero. If not, you may have a clogged gauge. You can manually try to clear it with a coat hanger or piece of wire, but they aren't all that expensive to replace. You have to pre-charge the tank with air, typically 20 pounds if your system operates 30 pounds pump on, 50 pounds pump off. BE SURE YOU CLOSE THE STORAGE TANK TAP BEFORE YOU START TO PUT THE AIR IN !! When you turn the pump back on, watch the gauge and see what the pressure is when the pump cuts out. Then open a faucet (I use my wash basin) and watch the pressure as it drops and you can note when the pump cuts in. If you don't want to drain the tank, you can always add some air to the tank and see if that helps...just don't exceed the on / off pressures of the pump. Put some air in...open a faucet...let the pressure drop to just above the pump cut-in...add some air...etc. That'll tell you for sure if it's waterlogged or not. Good luck. Bob;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OJR Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 What Bob LaBlanc said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkoholic Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 I think that it is probably the pressure switch/gauge. If the pump is not coming on until you have basically no water flow it is highly unlikely it is a water logged tank. When the tank is water logged what normally happens is that the interval that the pump is off is greatly reduced and the pump has to run almost constantly to maintain pressure when running water. Once the water is turned off the pump quickly stops running as there is little or no air to compress in the tank and the shutoff pressure is quickly reached and when the water is turned back on, the pressure drop off is rapid and the pump has to come back on a lot sooner than it should just to maintain pressure. The newer pressure tanks have a bladder inside to keep the water and air separated and if the bladder breaks the tank needs to be replaced. We just replaced our pressure tank and the new one is made of fiberglass and sure was a lot lighter and easier to handle. Your problem sounds more like a switch/gauge issue. Good luck with your plumbing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogdoc Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 If it's waterlogged, Tominator, you want to cut the power to the pump and drain off your water storage tank. There should be a tap at the base of the tank. Do NOT open your faucets at your sinks as this will let air into the lines, which you do not want to do. Once the tank is drained, check your pressure gauge and it should be at zero. If not, you may have a clogged gauge. You can manually try to clear it with a coat hanger or piece of wire, but they aren't all that expensive to replace. You have to pre-charge the tank with air, typically 20 pounds if your system operates 30 pounds pump on, 50 pounds pump off. BE SURE YOU CLOSE THE STORAGE TANK TAP BEFORE YOU START TO PUT THE AIR IN !! When you turn the pump back on, watch the gauge and see what the pressure is when the pump cuts out. Then open a faucet (I use my wash basin) and watch the pressure as it drops and you can note when the pump cuts in. If you don't want to drain the tank, you can always add some air to the tank and see if that helps...just don't exceed the on / off pressures of the pump. Put some air in...open a faucet...let the pressure drop to just above the pump cut-in...add some air...etc. That'll tell you for sure if it's waterlogged or not. Good luck. Bob;) yea--that's what i was thinking too:D:D Not--if it can't be fixed with a scalpel blade or a shot of penicillin then I can't fix it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted April 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 I think that it is probably the pressure switch/gauge. If the pump is not coming on until you have basically no water flow it is highly unlikely it is a water logged tank. When the tank is water logged what normally happens is that the interval that the pump is off is greatly reduced and the pump has to run almost constantly to maintain pressure when running water. Once the water is turned off the pump quickly stops running as there is little or no air to compress in the tank and the shutoff pressure is quickly reached and when the water is turned back on, the pressure drop off is rapid and the pump has to come back on a lot sooner than it should just to maintain pressure. The newer pressure tanks have a bladder inside to keep the water and air separated and if the bladder breaks the tank needs to be replaced. We just replaced our pressure tank and the new one is made of fiberglass and sure was a lot lighter and easier to handle. Your problem sounds more like a switch/gauge issue. Good luck with your plumbing! The tank is only a little over a year old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkoholic Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Like I said, I do not think it is the tank, although the tank we just replaced was only 1&1/2 years old. If it were the tank then the pump would kick on very soon after turning on the water and you would not have a loss of water flow/pressure and after the water was turned off the pump would not run very long as it would reach shutoff pressure very quickly. Remember, the pump can not really compress the water very much, if at all, so any pressure that is built up is the result of the air in the pressure tank being compressed. The pump does not produce pressure, it just moves a certain volume of liquid in a set amount of time. A water logged pressure tank has little or no air to compress, thus the pump is required to run whenever the water is turned on. As long as you get water flow when the pump kicks on, and if you can leave the water running with no further loss of flow, at least the pump is working, but is not being switched on soon enough. Therefore, I deduct that the pressure switch/gauge is not responding properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted April 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Therefore, I deduct that the pressure switch/gauge is not responding properly. This sounds like what is happening. So, is installing a new pressure switch easy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 This sounds like what is happening. So, is installing a new pressure switch easy? Would agree with Dave, it sounds like the switch to me too. Should be fairly easy Chris, depending on how easy it is to get to, some wells in well houses are a pain to work on(cramped space), my tank at the house here is underground, fortunately have not had to dig it up YET(knock on wood). Just pulled a search, you might check out this link http://www.inspect-ny.com/water/Poor-Water-Pressure-Diagnosis.htm, scroll down a ways and you will see some good information on loss of pressure and on short cycling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkoholic Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 Yeah, depending on location and type of install it can be an easy job or a real bear. Cost of new pressure switch: $19.99 Cost of time to install switch: $50.00 Invention of new cuss words while doing install: priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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