Vane choice


OUTDOORLIFE3

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Hey guys, I am trying to make a decision and just wanted some input. Right now I am shooting 4 in. Duravanes with a full helical and am contra-plating on changing. I shoot both fix blades and mechanicals and haven't decieded on which one I am using next season and shoot a drop away rest. The choices that I am looking at is Quickspin either the 2 or 4 in. with a full helical but I heard the are kind of noisy during flight and the other is Blazers. Any opinion will be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.

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I find the Blazers to be the toughest fletchings I've ever used. Fletch them helical and they really stabilize well.

I use them as well. But I use a 2-3 degree right offset, so far no problems here. A guy at work, tried the Quickspins, he told me they make some noise. Think Ill stick with the Blazers.

Leo, how long do you let them in the jig when gluing? Just curious, BTW.

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Anything you put on there will make some noise in one form or another. I've tried just about every vane on the market. Local people around here that I know bring me shafts and vanes or feathers and I build them for them. For their size, QuickSpin 3.125, are the vane of choice for me. They are fletched helical, and put a spin on a Muzzy 3 blade like you wouldn't believe.

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I use them as well. But I use a 2-3 degree right offset, so far no problems here. A guy at work, tried the Quickspins, he told me they make some noise. Think Ill stick with the Blazers.

Leo, how long do you let them in the jig when gluing? Just curious, BTW.

I use the Bohning Instant Gel. I let it cure at least 1 1/2 minutes before removing it from the jig. Cyanoacrylate based adhesives do "Frost" the fletching areas of your arrows unless you are extremely careful. Even then it's darn hard to prevent the frosted look. Personally, I don't care. You can clean it up with acetone but I don't usually bother. Pretty arrows don't float my boat. The Bohning gel is quite tough when it finally sets (24hrs). I squirt a puddle of the adhesive into a paper plate and then apply it to the fletching base with a toothpick. It takes very little gel to get the fletching to stick. Just wet with it is absolutely enough.

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I use the Bohning Instant Gel. I let it cure at least 1 1/2 minutes before removing it from the jig. Cyanoacrylate based adhesives do "Frost" the fletching areas of your arrows unless you are extremely careful. Even then it's darn hard to prevent the frosted look. Personally, I don't care. You can clean it up with acetone but I don't usually bother. Pretty arrows don't float my boat. The Bohning gel is quite tough when it finally sets (24hrs). I squirt a puddle of the adhesive into a paper plate and then apply it to the fletching base with a toothpick. It takes very little gel to get the fletching to stick. Just wet with it is absolutely enough.

Thanks. Been kicking it around just as a test, might get a helical clamp for the Bitz. I just read you need to let it sit longer in the clamp.

This will be my 4th year with Blazers and I really like them. If fletching them with a helical, I would recommend a wrap.

Yep, better adhesion with wraps!

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I just switched over to the NAP QuikSpin ST 3.125" vanes from a Duravane 4" vane the other week and I noticed I gained some speed with my arrows. I had to move my sight pins even closer together than they already are. I didn't notice anymore noise with the NAP QuikSpin ST 3.125" vanes than the guy shooting next to me with Blazer 2" vanes. The guy actually was quite impressed by my QuikSpins and said he'd have to fletch a few up to try himself. The QuikSpins are great with a drop-away rest, but I don't recommend them for Whisker Biscuit rests. For me the Blazer 2" vanes won't work with my setup, but I can get almost the same performance from the QuikSpin ST 3.125" vanes and still not have it throw my FOC off so bad on my arrows.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Fletchings

Am thinking of starting to build my own arrows. Am a novice at arrow building and while looking over supplies in a Cabelas catalog noticed that when ordering they ask for information like straight, helical, right or left. I shot left handed and really not sure what I should get for hunting arrows.:confused:

Any help would be appreciated.:rolleyes:

Andy

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Am thinking of starting to build my own arrows. Am a novice at arrow building and while looking over supplies in a Cabelas catalog noticed that when ordering they ask for information like straight, helical, right or left. I shot left handed and really not sure what I should get for hunting arrows.:confused:

Any help would be appreciated.:rolleyes:

Andy

What are you using now? I believe the only reason for left helical was for traditional shooters because of the shelf. I read and was told by others that right helical will not un-screw the field tip or broad heads. I am pretty sure you can use either right helical or right offset. If I am wrong please someone say so!

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What are you using now? I believe the only reason for left helical was for traditional shooters because of the shelf. I read and was told by others that right helical will not un-screw the field tip or broad heads. I am pretty sure you can use either right helical or right offset. If I am wrong please someone say so!

Right or Left Helical is just fine for left handed shooters (me being one ... ;) ) I prefer right offset for my shafts but that's just my personal preference ...

I believe the only reason for left helical was for traditional shooters because of the shelf.

BINGO John !! .. ;)

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What are you using now? I believe the only reason for left helical was for traditional shooters because of the shelf. I read and was told by others that right helical will not un-screw the field tip or broad heads. I am pretty sure you can use either right helical or right offset. If I am wrong please someone say so!

I don't know; I went into Gander Mtn said I wanted some Easton aluminum arrows 27" long and size 2213 and they cut them and gave them to me with fletchings already on them.:rolleyes:

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