Retiring the 30.06

[bluelund79]

After going through the cabinet, I realized that some of the weapons that my Dad gave me need some TLC. The 30.06 is going to be retired for awhile so i can get to working on the stock and so forth. In the mean time, I still have some great deer weapons and 1 OTPG caliber, so its time to get my 1 rifle/shotgun/pistol for the year. Probably going to get a 30.06, so when the 1917 is completed, I can give it back to my Dad for the time being (in better shape than i got it-just the way he taught me). Looking at Savages and Weatherby Vanguards...I know, its apples to oranges, but I like them both. Any thoughts on where to start for getting the stock refinished? It has some character chips that may need filling, or maybe a full replacement is in order. The rifle is a Remington 1917 with a sporterized stock. I like that look for that rifle, so that is my starting block. Thanks in advance, Eric

[uncle john]

A do-it-yerself refinish is a good idea if the stock is sound and the rifle shoots well with it. Basically, this is what you get into:

-- removing stock from rifle and removing metal fixtures from the stock ( sling attachments, etc.) Usually I let the buttplate and pistol grip cap on to avoid damaging their fit.

-- removing the old finish, if there is a surface build-up. Many people get out the 40 grit and start. This ends up removing wood. You need to keep all the wood you have, unless the original stock job does not suit, and a new profile is desired. Sometimes, careful scraping will remove, sometimes a stripper material is best. You can get into discolorations with strippers. If sandpaper is used, don't go any coarser than 220, and use sanding blocks where possible.

-- prep for appying new finish involves a sanding with 400 grit, and a grain raising by wetting stock and blow-drying it. This brings up fine whiskers that can be sanded off (400 grit)

--choosing and applying a new finish. This depends on how you want things to look. I prefer George Brothers (GB) Linspeed. This finish penetrates the wood, seals it well and gives a low luster shine. Four to eight coats, sanded or steel wooled back to wood between coats fills all the grain and gives a smooth, even finish. TruOil dries quicker, does not penetrate quite as well, and gives a high gloss finish. Both are hand-rubbed finishes. Spray on types can be used, but they are not my cup of tea. A gunstock should be beautiful, so do whatever is beautiful to your eye.

-- You can expect to spend a grand total 10 hours or more over a period of several days to do all of this to high grade specs.

-- You do not have to be a gunsmith or skilled woodworker to pull this off. You MUST be a patient person and pay attention to cleaning up all the little nasty details if you want the job to be done right.

-- There are all kinds if little tricks to help things come out right, but that would take a book. Maybe there is something more complete out there on the net. Hope this helps. uj

[bluelund79]

uj- Thank you for the help. Does anyody have any recommendations for a filler to use. There are some areas that will need to be filled. I will take some photos when I get home from work to show what I am talking about, and if they can't be filled, I guess I need to look for a new stock....Again, thank you, Eric

[too_pointer]

Hello. Check this article out, I think it is a good one.

http://riflestocks.tripod.com/sfinish.html

too_

[bluelund79]

Wow too_pointer, that wasn an excellent article. Sounds like this is going to be a fun project, even if I start with a new stock, I can do it the way that I want to. The nice part is, the gun shoots very well. 1.25 in at 100 yards, alot of that was before I learned how to shoot well, and the fact it has a rather inexpensive optic on it. But with time, this is gonna be one neat gun...I'm sure Dad is going to love it, if not, I know at least I will!

[uncle john]

Dents and gouges: If the wood has been dented, the dent can usually be raised up with steam, unless it's a real whopper. After the old finish has been removed, take the corner of an old cotton washcloth and dip in water. Fold the corner to make a double layer. Have the family clothes iron just hot enough to make steam. Put the cloth over the dent, and set the point of the iron on the dent. You may have to add a bit more water and repeat til dent rises as much as it is going to. This area will not be as strong as it once was, but will be better than it was.

As far as scratches and gouges, they are not fun to work with. I have made some repairs by inletting small pieces of wood, but you must have a variety of samples and pick one that best matches color and grain. Most commercial wood fillers are not suitable. You can make a wood filler by using dust from a coarse sand paper and mix it with clear lacquer to make a paste. That is pressed into the holed tightly and quickly. (like a dentist filling a tooth) The hole must be scraped clean before the filler is applied. The problem is that the color is not always a good match. ( If you are into fly tying, fly head cement is clear lacquer.) The lacquer will dry pretty quick, and will not be softened by the oil finish. Do some experimenting on a scrap piece of wood first. uj

[bluelund79]

UJ-thank you again, and from the sounds of things, I am going to have to start with a blank and just the finish work on it. These are some real doosies from way back when, and I really don't think it'll do my baby the justice to do the filling, besides, they are too big to fill imo. So now its time to find a stock and finish it or just find a stock that is done....This ought to be interesting!