homemade ground blind

[razortec_hunter]

ok yall i aint got the money for a ground blind such as a double bull or somethin like that,

so have any of you guys made your own homemade ground blind?? if so what worked well for you???

[Tominator]

ok yall i aint got the money for a ground blind such as a double bull or somethin like that,

so have any of you guys made your own homemade ground blind?? if so what worked well for you???

You should see the ones Buckee builds. They are sweet!

I've dabbled in it. Not much success with them to be honest. The key is to make them blend in with the surroundings which takes a fair amount of work IMHO.

[RangerClay]

You should see the ones Buckee builds. They are sweet!.

When I saw the title of your post I thought to myself the exact thing. Send him a PM, he has lots of pics.

[wtnhunt]

Have built and used a few and had pretty good luck with them. Used surplus tent canvas from an army surplus store around heavy wire or conduit as a frame. If you place the blind right, you can do well with them without a lot of work brushing them in. Fence rows work great, expecially where it is grown up a bit.

[beardsandspurs]

Excellent

[Predator]

Make sure you break up the outline head to toe. I have tried a 3 foot high net supported by poles while sitting. My movement has been spotted every time.

Only luck was in a commercial blind. But tucked next to a cedar tree or something like that should work. Make sure you have tall shooting lanes, width is not as important. But you need some small holes to see the deer coming from the sides to draw in time. A seated set up is best to stay still the longest. Practice shooting out of the chair you use.

[buckee]

Here's the ones I/we make. They sure do work good.

First you need 4' x 15' of fencing with good size holes in it like shown below.( After the Grass is in, it's around 5' high). You also need corner supports and supports every 3' apart that must be firmly attached to the fencing. I used 1" x 2" doubled up.(one on each side and then nailed together with some good, short, good gripping nails.

Off of each support you attach a light rope with a good sturdy tent peg attached. Give yourself enough rope for a good support. I hang two ropes off each end support. One goes to the fence and one goes to a tent peg.

You need to set it up in the yard (bare bones)and get your favorite hunting stool out, in order to get the shooting windows cut at the right height, ESPECIALLY WHEN BOW HUNTING.

When shooting with a bow, you'll want them to go a bit lower on the bottoms to insure your arrow doesn't nick the blind on the way to the target (since it leaves the bow, way below the sights (if you know what I mean). To understand this, just hold up your bow and see where your line of sight is through your sights, compared to where your arrow leaves the bow. Being so close to the blind, when you shoot, you just have to make sure they clear the bottom of the windows.

You can make your windows about 10" to 12" apart.

Now that you have the frame built, the shooting windows cut and the support ropes secured, it's time to find a good patch of high grass somewhere, that matches the grass in the fence-line that you wish to put your blind.

I use pruning snips to collect my grass, by grabbing it near the bottom and bunching as much as I can, to get a handful, and then snipping it off and laying the handfuls on a piece of rope. When you get a good bundle of grass, you just pull the rope around the bundle, tie it and throw the bundle in your truck (or

whatever)

sorry I don't have pics of the grass bundle ..

Ok, you've got your grass...Set up your bare-blind in your yard and start weaving, or should I say tucking.

Depending on the length of the grass, I like to get 3 or 4 tucks, so it will hold good when the winds come and it starts to dry out. Do along the whole top of the blind first. grabbing a small handful of grass, line up the stocks and tuck. I like to alternate the tucking along the top, by tucking from the front for the first one and then from the inside for the next one. This way you cover the fencing well. Start the tucking about 2 fence-squares from the top and leave a good tuft of grass sticking up to give you that extra 10" to 12" of height when the blind is completed.

I'm sure you'll figure out how to weave around the windows to keep them open and covered around the edges good. Along the window tops you have to tuck it down and around and then back up again. The windows take a little more work when it comes to tucking. You can cut your handfuls a bit shorter for this with your snips.

Sorry this picture is so dark, but it was getting dark when I got it weaved across the top. You can see in the pic, that I used short stuff to tuck in the bottom of the windows, then over and back through again.

When tucking all the bottom grass in, you start tucking from the outside of the blind only to get that short grass, tall grass coverage. You will notice while tucking, that you will get a kink or bend in the handful of grass, while your tucking it. I like to pull that kink all the way through at the bottom and trim it off in the

end. It just holds better if you get rid of that kinked grass. Two tight tucks close to the bottom too, helps hold it well.

When your all finished, you can always add a bit of "Other" greenery if you like. Or even sticks.

You will find that they start losing their color after a while, drying out, but then so will the grass is the fence-line as the fall wears on. The trick is to get it in early in the season and let the deer get used to going past it all the time.

Don't over hunt them. I like to stay away for 4 to 5 days at a time. I love the surprise approach.

I've got this one set up 15 yards from where they go through the fence. Yeah, it's close, but I like it that way for bow hunting.

Most deer shot out of this blind are 20 yards or less, and there have been plenty. I had a doe, stick her head right in one of my windows one day, and was about a foot from my broadhead....LOL

If your using a rifle or black-powder, you could back off considerably from the trails, of course...LOL.

This is my set-up for this blind where I hunt, just so you get a better feel for how and why I use this type of set-up.

The picture below was taken the day I took the last deer from this blind this year. You can see how it

still blends in with the fence-line, even though it has dried out.

I just roll up the fencing, throw a rope around it and carry it in. It weighs a bit, when it's damp,but dry, it weighs about 35 lbs. It's really easy to move. You just pull the tent pegs, roll it up and through it over your shoulder.

Any questions, just ask...eh

If nothing else, my grass blinds might start your creative juices flowing for your own version.

Steve

[clrj3514]

oh ya. we use em. if u've got em in the rite spot they'll work. heck, weve even got one covered in a blue tarp

[Flintlock1776]

Buckee's looks great looks likea lot of work vs. store bought

[Born4it]

Another option would be to buy a really cheap one and cover it all up with branches, grass, corn stalks, and everything else that blends in with your surroundings. You can snag a cheap one at Wal Mart for around 50-75 bucks.

Other than that, I don't actually make full covered blinds, but I get a little creative along fence lines and place a chair somewhere and get whatever I need to cover it up and blend it in. I would say just get creative with anything you can. Use stumps, fallen trees, corn stalks, bushes, sticks...anything!

Good luck,

Ryan

[wtnhunt]

Knew I had a pic somewhere, here is one that I have used for years. Simple to build and put up. Easy access and easy to get to through the fence undetected. Used to have it on the other side of the fence, but my cows trampled it.

This was the view from this blind when the pic was taken a few years back. Pretty good vantage point for calling. Have rr beans in this year in a narrow strip about 3/4 of the way along the river edge.