Average draw weight for women


Guest deerchica

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Guest deerchica

Sorry if I am not using the right terminology, I am still learning. You would think after my whole life being around this I would know more.:p This is my first year with a bow instead of a video camera...nervous as heck. I have been using my sons bow for practice until I can get to Scheels next weekend for the big puchase. We have it down to 50lbs and its tough to pull back, but I can do it. I think our lowest legal limit is 45lbs. So I dont know if I should buy the 40-50 or the 50-60lb. Im just afraid up in that tree stand I am going to panic and not be able to pull back without scaring every creature within a mile. So is 50lb normal or do I need to start pumping some iron fast, the 15th will be here very soon.

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Chica - I don't have much experience shooting a bow, but I would highly suggest shooting whatever weight is most comfortable for you now. If you think you can pull back 50lb repeatedly or under pressure (when shooting that big buck!), then perhaps go for the 50-60lb that way you could up the weight if you wanted. :) But, if you feel like you couldn't ever handle anything more than 50lb then go for the 40-50lb that way you could even lower it to the lowest legal limit of 45.

It all boils down to what you feel like you would be most comfortable with! Go to the bow shop and try out both, then pick the one you like the best. Hope this helps. ;)

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My girlfriend is about 5'1 and 130lbs and she is most comfortable around 36lbs when target shooting, however the lowest legal draw in Arkansas is 40lbs so we will have to kick it up 4 lbs for deer season, but this is not a problem since you won't be repeatedly shooting, you just need to be able to pull it once. If you struggle with 50, go with the lowest legal weight. The difference in speed between 50 and 45 lbs is going to be minimal. Speed is overrated in bows, just find the weight you are most comfortable with. Also practice sitting down, standing, kneeling, etc. You might be able to pull 50 in perfect standing conditions, but any bowhunter will tell you that the shot position is not always optimal, so keep that in mind.

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What I have found is as you practice shooting your bow each day or every other day or whatever...you'll build up that strength. I myself find that if I am consister in practicing, it gets easier and easier to pull the weight and I raised my bow poundage up a pound this year to 48 pounds...my bow goes 40-50 and it's basically maxed out...so next bow I will get will probably be in the 50-60 pound range. My suggestion is go with 50-60 and practice...it'll get easier.

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I'm not a bow guru so to speak like some others here, I consider myself more of a practical bow hunter. With that said though as a general rule bows perform best near their peak drawn weight. If you don't feel comfortable drawing a bow over 50 lbs. I would think you would be better off with the 40-50 lb. bow.

Drawing your bow during practice sessions and drawing your bow in a stand can be different. In a hunting situation it's best to minimize movement. It's best to be able to draw your bow straight back in a hunting situation rather than struggling around to get it drawn. If you need to drop down toward the 45lb. range to accomplish this you should consider doing that. Also, in cold weather drawing your bow can be more difficult too.

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First of all, whatever you decide is best for you, you'll simply love holding a bow in your hand this fall instead of camera equipment!

You mention that you're concerned that once you're up in the stand you might have trouble pulling back more than 50#. How about climbing up right now and giving some practice shots from the stand at 50#? It's true that what you're able to comfortably manage on flat ground doesn't always hold true for off the ground, so I'd suggest trying that before buying your own bow.

I'm with the other women on the weight thing - I pull 50# (my bow's max) and plan on moving up to a higher max on my next bow. That being said, 50# gets the kill, and as long as you practice and know how much your arrow will drop at various distances (so you know where to aim), you'll be fine.

Good luck and enjoy! :)

Laura

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest jlh42581

I hadnt signed up quite yet but this thread and talk of going a step up in bows just made me do it.

You want your bow as close to max draw weight as possible. You ladies who are right at the 50 mark dont wanna go to a 50-60 bow unless you think you are going to move up. With all the talk of bows being quiet these days people make this mistake all the time. Someone previously mentioned it... im confirming.

You dont need much to kill a deer. Watched Mark Drurys little girl on video take a buck with 30lbs of draw weight. Mark only shoots 54 pounds himself i remember correctly. IBO speed and draw weight are not that matched.

My martin with the 50-60 limbs... at 58 lbs is just as fast as the 60-70 limbs at closer to 70lbs.

If your at the bottom end of 50, only buy the 50-60 if the bow you want doesnt come in a lower draw weight.

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All you need to kill a deer is 25# if the shot is placed right. If 50# is a little tough for you and your legal limit is 45#, then I'd reccommend 45#. If you are pulling back weight that is uncomfortable to you, then your arms are going to be more fatigued after drawing that bow back which will give a greater chance at wounding the animal. Plus, in a cold weather situation......that bow is going to be twice as hard to draw back. I shot 70# all spring and summer long in 2004 and got in my treestand November 13th with a windchill of about 5 degrees........I had a buck come in and couldnt get my bow drawn back. I have since cranked it down to about 63#. Remember...Ted Nugent himself kills deer with clean pass throughs with only a 50# bow.

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Go lower. Get a 40-50. When you are stiff and cold, you need to be able to draw the bow with good form and make a good shot. If you can't comfortably draw and hold the bow at full draw, you won't be able to hit anything anyway, so all your extra poundage will just drive the arrow deeper in the dirt. You will have the option of getting a higher poundage bow when those muscles are stronger down the road, but by then you will probably realize you don't need it. I cringe when I see hunting shows with footage of these guys drawing bows and they have to contort themselves to get to full draw, it should be smooth and relatively easy, find the bow that lets you do it that way. Form and shot placement are key.

HB

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Guest deerchica

I did end up getting a new bow with 40-50lbs. Its set right at the state limit what a difference 5lbs makes. I can pull this one back much better than the 50lbs and not too bad of a shot either:p

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This is kind of late, but I got my g/f a bow with 40-50 lb limbs and it seems to get alright penetration into targets. She hasn't hunted with it yet. It's IBO at 50 lbs was better than my old bow at 70 lbs and I had that turned down while still getting complete pass-throughs. I would use a cut-on-contact tipped broadhead. Finally, don't be breaking any olympic distance records at game and I'm sure you'll do great this season when a shot presents itself. lol Good luck.

- Dan

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  • 2 weeks later...

Texas dropped the 40# Wt limit this year

Show what you Can draw and shoot well and with accuracy.

Sharp fixed Broadhead are the ticket

My Ex wife in Africa DR Dean Shot a monster Bull Kudu with a 32# Bow and a 1818 alum arrow and a Modoc Broadhead Bull Kudu weighted 625# and wan 71 yards

\

Arrow went thru last rib. guts, liver, diaphragm, one lung heart.

you don't need a lot of bow weight

Sharp fixed broadheads & decent shot placement not over 25 yards work best

Tink Nathan

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