Slug


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I have a Browning Invector in 12 gauge with a rifled slug barrel. I am looking for a slug that would be effective at 150 yards max. that would not kill me when I squeeze the triger. This being my first slug gun, I am ignorant to the different types of slugs available. I have heard of the copper, hollow-points, lead, sabotted, etc. and I still don;t have a clue what would be the most effective for my range. Any ideas?

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Re: Slug

only thing i could tell you norm is to try out a bunch and see what patterns best.

150 yards is quite a poke with a slug, especially if you're looking to reduce recoil. in that respect i'd say you're going to have to drop your yardage down to 75 to 100 yards and shoot a 2 3/4

i'm betting AJ has some thoughts here too, and i'm betting they're better thoughts than mine. grin.gif

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Re: Slug

Hey Norm,

To shoot effectively at 150 yards with a slug gun you are going to have some recoil. Due to the shape of the slugs, they are basically flying bricks. They shed their velocity levels fairly quickly.

To shoot long range with slugs, I would shoot each of these slugs and see which one shoots the best:

Remington Core Lokt Ultra Bonded

Federal Premium Barnes Sabot

Winchester Supreme Partition Gold Sabot

Since the slugs drop their velocity so quickly, they have a more pronounced arch in their trajectory. They also shed energy very quickly. The above 3 loads will have enough energy out to 150 yards for deer and black bears.

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  • 1 year later...

Re: Slug

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You'd definetly want a saboted slug.

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i dont know if this is with all slugguns but with rifled barrels but your only supost to shoot sabots because rifled slugs rip up the riflings in you barrel due to the fact that the riflings on the slug are different than in the barrel. sabots get spun by the riflings and rifled slugs spin by themselves causing them to not need a rifled barrel. its kind of comfusing. confused.gif

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Re: Slug

[ QUOTE ]

i dont know if this is with all slugguns but with rifled barrels but your only supost to shoot sabots because rifled slugs rip up the riflings in you barrel due to the fact that the riflings on the slug are different than in the barrel. sabots get spun by the riflings and rifled slugs spin by themselves causing them to not need a rifled barrel. its kind of comfusing. confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Sorry Buddy, not even close, on both accounts. Foster type, rifled slugs can be fired in a rifled bore with zero damage to the rifling, bore, gun, or whatever. As long as the gauge and length is correct for the chamber, a soft lead bullet will not affect the steel rifling. There will be some quick lead buildup in the rifling, but it can (should) be cleaned out to keep accuracy consistant.

On the second subject, the rifling on a slug does not cause it to spin. It gives a space for the lead to go as it passes through the choke. When the bore becomes smaller at the choke, the lead has to squeeze into a smaller shape. The grooves give the moving lead some place to go.

The only don'ts with slugs are:

1. shoot sabots in a smoothbore - not for safety, but for accuracy. Sabot needs to be spun for stabilization.

2. Do not shoot slugs in the huge Mossberg 835 or 935 barrels unless it is a slug barrel. This comes straight from the manufacturer.

Anyhow, this post is a year and a half old.

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