Stick Bows


redkneck

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OK, i'm still pretty new, and i see we dont have a traditional bow forum, so instead of pestering JimPic with a zillion questions (which i'm sure he doesnt mind) i thought i would post here for all to read. Here's what i'm wondering. I got this beautiful hand made longbow, 68", 60lb draw, that i've had for years and never really hunted with it much, and i won in an archery jamboree. Jim is helping me out with a string (lost the old one). What speeds do these bows reach? What are sensible ranges to ethically take shots? What arrows/broadheads do most traditional hunters use? I got a new bow this year, took 2 does and an 8pt in the first few weeks with it...but that stick keeps calling me..... I'm making it a mission to take my first deer with it this year.

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Hey, buddy, maybe I can help! :) First off, I want to welcome you to the ranks of the elite! :D:D:D Yeah, once you shoot that traditional bow it's hard to go back to the compound. ;) Speedwise, I'd have to say no more than 200fps for most longbows, maybe 230 for some recurves. Most traditional shooters will not take shots past thirty yards at best on a whitetail; I've shot rabbits with my recurve at twenty. Most traditional shooters prefer either aluminum or cedar shafts (use Zwickey broadheads for the cedar shafts) and you can use any legal broadhead you like for the aluminum shafts. I prefer a two blade 125 gr. Magnus Stinger; you get better penetration with a two blade broadhead. As far as releases go, a three finger glove or tab will do; I use both depending on whether I'm shooting my longbow or my recurve. Nocks are a must as with any bow and I would hesitate to leave it strung up all the time if you aren't shooting it. Hope this helps!

Dakota :)

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Depending on the type of design,speeds can vary.Most likely anywhere from 160-190 is pretty much normal.Ranges are up to the archer.If your accuracy drops after 15yds...keep your shots under 15yds.I shoot carbons and aluminums off my recurves and longbows...mostly carbons,with 125gr Stingers.I also prefer a leather-faced tab.Some shooters like gloves.I feel I get a better release with a tab.

Form is very important also.A good consistant anchor,release and follow-thru will lead to accuracy

It's also ok to leave your bow strung IF it's a glass-backed bow.If it's just a solid wood bow with no fiberglass or laminations,unstring it after your done shooting

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I should post a pic of it. There is a black laminate on the bow i assume is glass. When i shot it years ago, i used a 3-finger leather glove. I could hit pretty decent to around 20 yards if i remember correctly. Do you guys have any tips on aiming? I just shot it so much that i knew how low the tip of my arrow should be in relationship to my target as long as i kept a good anchor point it did ok. I just didnt know if you guys developed your own little tricks to help out. You guys don't know how much i appreciate this. I'm not going to store my compound (heck i just bought a new one) but I just keep thinking what a shame it is to never have even taken anything with that longbow.

THANKS A MILLION GUYS!!!!

john

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I'm not a traditional bowhunting guru by any means but I've switched back and forth over the years. I'm currently a coumpound bowhunter. I have some good friends that are die hard traditional hunters. Some that won't hunt any other way.

All the trad hunters I know shoot either aluminum or carbon shafts. When I last hunted with my recurve I used carbon arrows. The reason is consistency of both spine and weight. According to my die hard trad hunting friends, there are simply too many variations in both spine and weight from one wood shaft to the next. Some trad hunters use clamp-on nocks and others make theirs by using loops of fast-flight material. Like JimPic I always prefered a finger tab for the same reason. I concur with JimPic's other comments too. As far as aiming, tuning, and any other questions you might have, I suggest you buy a copy of Byron Ferguson's book "Become the Arrow". You'll find it very helpful in answering a lot of questions you have now and ones you haven't even thought of yet. ;)

One more thing, I found some treestands were not well suited for trad hunting. Stands with wrap around bars (like an Ol' Man climber) created problems with lower limb clearance. You may have the same problem hunting from stands with arm rails. Something to keep in mind when next bow season comes around.

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I'll check that out. there's also a link at bowsite.com to a traditional only (leatherwall i think is the forums name). At this point i'm just getting familiar with the thing, not really "converted". But now that Jim's making me a string, i'm obligated to whack one next season! ;)

to be continued.........

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks, 92XJ. It is a very beautiful handmade bow. The pics really dont do it justice, but that's an opinion from a guy who hasnt looked at many in life, lol. I understand not getting one. Fact is, I would have NEVER owned a longbow if I hadnt won this one at a show. I'd be like all the other bowhunters out there and say they'd like to shoot one, but dont want to buy one, haha. Sad fact is, i've owned this bow for 20 years and never taken an animal with it. Jim's going to hook me up with a string though, and i'm taking it out next season.

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I have a PSE Kudu recurve on the way that I bought off of 007hunter. Can't wait to get it in and start shooting. Hopefully I'll be able to take a deer with it in the coming season. Don't plan for it to be my primary weapon, but it'll be fun to be able to take it out and try to get a doe with it. Good luck!

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