Straight Shooter Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 I got the sweetest deal on a Ruger M77/22 this past Wednesday, it is in great condition with the exception of a scratch on the barrel and I can live with that. I got if for 400.00 and couldn't wait to get it home and shoot it. I put a Bausch & Lomb 3-12x50 on it , clean it up and went out to shoot it. Took six shots to get a half inch group at 50 yards. I have wanted one of these rifles for so long and I mean a long time. I was 13 when I saw my first 22 Hornet rifle and have wanted one ever since, I am now 41. LOL Anyway, my question is about reloading this joker. i've got all my brass, bullets, powder, etc., does anyone have any experience at loading these dainty little things? I've read my reloading manuals several times about the die's and all that good stuff. I just don't want to screw this up, I'm going to load some H110 and Lil Gun for my rounds and shooting a 45 grain bullet. #1 Do I need to form the full case? #2 Do I need to trim new cases? #3 Is there anywhere I can get detailed information specifically about the 22 Hornet reloading? I know its more than one question but I am a bow guru and new to reloading rifles. I don't have a problem with my 44 mag reloading that is simple with a straight walled case. I'm just a bit intimidated with a necked case. any help would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 Congrats, that's a wicked little round. I used to want a .22 mag for years and years. Then i got one and they came out with the .17hmr, now i want that one, lol. Worse than my wife is with her shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookieee Posted February 20, 2009 Report Share Posted February 20, 2009 congrats hope you enjoy:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Anyway, my question is about reloading this joker. i've got all my brass, bullets, powder, etc., does anyone have any experience at loading these dainty little things? I've read my reloading manuals several times about the die's and all that good stuff. I just don't want to screw this up, I'm going to load some H110 and Lil Gun for my rounds and shooting a 45 grain bullet. #1 Do I need to form the full case? #2 Do I need to trim new cases? #3 Is there anywhere I can get detailed information specifically about the 22 Hornet reloading? First of all, I am probably one of the least qualified people here to be advising on re-loading since I am kind of inexperienced too. But I'm sure if I mis-speak, somebody will straighten it out....lol. Actually, I do have a hornet and I have reloaded quite a few hundred cartridges and I figured that since nobody was directly answering your questions, I would give it a try. #1 I usually neck size only on cartridges that have been shot from my gun. I believe that helps to maintain a close customized head-space. #2 What you need is a good book, and a pair of veniers or micrometers to check out case length. There are absolute maximums for case length and this is one of many critical dimensions on a case. It seems to me that last time I checked out new brass, the cartridge length was running right at the maximum. Trimming was not necessary, but length should be checked each time a case is reloaded. Any time full-length sizing is done, you can expect some length growth in the cartridge. Carefully measure the length and trim if necessary. #3 I have not run into a .22 Hornet specific publication although I'm sure they are out there. What I use primarily is the Hornaday books that pretty much tells you everything you ever wanted to know about re-loading a whole array of calibers, bullets and powders. It shows the case dimensions, bullet makes and sizes with appropriate powder loads for a whole array of powder manufacturers. Also, in the front is important pictures and text that describes a lot of things to look for that would indicate loads that are too hot, important information on re-loading processes, and a lot of other tips that touch on safety. It's real good reading and is constantly open when I am re-loading. Note that just because a load is listed there does not mean that it is appropriate for your gun. What they are recommending is that you start out loading some of the lesser loads and work your way up, always looking for signs of excess pressure. There is also a lot of ballistics info that gets into trajectory and energy. My book came in a two volume set, but they now market a single book, hopefully for a lot less money. Although the cost didn't break the bank or anything, I seem to recall that it was a bit expensive. However considering the amount of valuable info, it is well worth the price and I couldn't reload without it. There are also other books that other manufacturers publish with their versions of loading data. I have an old Lyman book which I occasionally will open up, but the Hornaday book is the one I rely one primarily. I hope this all helps you out some and that others will reply with their comments. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LETMGROW Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 I think Doc has done an outstanding job answering your questions. I also neck size only IF I am going to shoot reloads from the same gun. If you were to find closing the bolt was difficult you may want to full length resize the cases. Checking brass length is always a good idea whether you have new or used brass. I am a stickler on uniformity across the board. If you trim the cases be sure to chamfer the case mouth inside and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_218 Posted February 21, 2009 Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 I got the sweetest deal on a Ruger M77/22 this past Wednesday, it is in great condition with the exception of a scratch on the barrel and I can live with that. I got if for 400.00 and couldn't wait to get it home and shoot it. I put a Bausch & Lomb 3-12x50 on it , clean it up and went out to shoot it. Took six shots to get a half inch group at 50 yards. I have wanted one of these rifles for so long and I mean a long time. I was 13 when I saw my first 22 Hornet rifle and have wanted one ever since, I am now 41. LOL Anyway, my question is about reloading this joker. i've got all my brass, bullets, powder, etc., does anyone have any experience at loading these dainty little things? I've read my reloading manuals several times about the die's and all that good stuff. I just don't want to screw this up, I'm going to load some H110 and Lil Gun for my rounds and shooting a 45 grain bullet. #1 Do I need to form the full case? #2 Do I need to trim new cases? #3 Is there anywhere I can get detailed information specifically about the 22 Hornet reloading? I know its more than one question but I am a bow guru and new to reloading rifles. I don't have a problem with my 44 mag reloading that is simple with a straight walled case. I'm just a bit intimidated with a necked case. any help would be greatly appreciated! Try this weblink: http://www.reloadersnest.com/frontpage.asp?CaliberID=12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Shooter Posted February 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2009 Hey guys! Thank you so much for the info and it helped out greatly. I did check each case last night with my calipers and they were within .005 of each other, had one or two that was about , .007 different on length. My problem I ran into was different types of bullets, from a soft point to a speer type bullet. I found out the head space o each is different. DUH So I have to adjust that height accordingly. Once again, I appreciate all the help and information this guys! Take care and Shoot Straight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted February 23, 2009 Report Share Posted February 23, 2009 My problem I ran into was different types of bullets, from a soft point to a speer type bullet. I found out the head space o each is different. DUH So I have to adjust that height accordingly. If I am understanding all the stuff that I have read about head spacing, the bullet style should not impact head spacing. Of course I wouldn't be completely surprised if I am getting some of that screwed up. But my understanding is that the head spacing is more a case of the fore and aft positioning of the case shoulder relative to the base of the cartridge. The bullet should not be causing any axial positioning regardless of its shape or style. That's why when I use cases that are already shot in that gun I only neck size them so as to not interfere with the "fire-formed" case dimensions which have moved the shoulder into a perfect fit for head-space. Like I say, I could be way out of wack on that and I hope someone will correct me on that if I am. The problem is that I don't belong to any gun clubs, or get to converse with people that really know this stuff, so it is very possible that I am interpreting what I am reading all wrong. And I sure hope someone will straighten me out if I am. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_218 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Dosen't the head spacing occure on a "Rimmed" cartridge like the .22 Hornet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleA Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Dosen't the head spacing occure on a "Rimmed" cartridge like the .22 Hornet? That is correct David. A cartridge such as the .22 Hornet or 30-30 Win and a host of others are designed for the rim to headspace the cartridge case since the lack of a steep enough shoulder. Something simular would be the the belted case, back when Holland and Holland came up with the 375 H&H.It has a very shallow shoulder angle, one which would not provide enough for reliable headspacing so instead of a rim or flange they devised the "magnum belt" in which alot of magnum rifle cases are based on. Even though the belt isnt needed due to the sharp shoulder angel In the case of the diminutive Hornet that's why the K Hornet with it's improved blown out shoulder is considered a better choice. It's enough to give positive headspace off the shoulder and thus allows true neck sizing giving better accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Shooter Posted March 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2009 All right, so what I am gathering here is that the over all length of the cartridge isn't affected by the bullet style. Let's say a speer soft point bullet compared to a more pointed bullet like the hornady bullet. I'm down with that but why is there different recommended lengths listed on the WWW. that indicate different settings for each bullet? Sorry guys, I'm just aggrivated over this reloading with my 22 Hornet. I am having problems with it crushing the neck of my cases when I try to seat and crimp the bullets. Now my nickel cases are flaking off around the rim of the neck and causing burrs. Aaahhh! Should I get a beller for this and slightly expand the neck so this doesn't happen. I don't seem to have this problem when I do this for my 44 brass when I bell the neck out some, not much just enough to get the bullet started. So, the head space is really the shoulder seating into the chamber of the rifle, when I try to push an unfired case in there. This is actually the resistance I am getting not the bullet hitting the beginning of the rifling if my length is set right? I've heard these are a pain in the butt to reload and I am beginning to believe that. I am about tot he point of just selling all this 22 Hornet stuff and buy the factory loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle john Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 I have had limited experience with loading Hornets, but I have found that the inside of the case mouth needs to have the de-burring tool run in it to eliminate the sharp corner. Bullets will seat in much easier. The depth to which a bullet is seated will determine the internal capacity of the case. With a small case like the Hornet, deeper seating will cause higher pressures when the powder burns. This may be why an overall length is given. This is very important in loading pistol cartridges, I have seen the backs blown off .45 ACP cases by having the bullet seated excessively deep over a normal charge of powder. Seating a Hornet bullet 10 or 15 thousands too deep is not going to do this, but it will raise the psi's a little. Stick with what the book says, and stay out of trouble. If you have a Ruger Hornet that will shoot under a minute of angle, hang onto it. In general, they are not known for accuracy. There are a few other issues this rifle has, you can do a google search if you are interested. uncle john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doc Posted March 16, 2009 Report Share Posted March 16, 2009 You need to get a copy of the Hornady reloading book. It gets into all of this stuff with pictures and thorough explanations. They are for sale at any Gander Mountain, Bass Pro, and most likely Cabelas stores. Also, any decent gun store that sells reloading equipment will undoubtedly have them for sale. It is well worth the money and should always be right near your re-loading bench to answer all these questions as they come up, as well as guide you in acceptable sizes and powder loads and cartridge over-all lengths, etc. The section in the front is about the most complete explanation of reloading techniques and most of the questions that a newbie would ever come up with. Then there is the extensive section on load specs for the various powders, calibers, and bullets. Pretty much, I wouldn't be able to reload without that book. Other bullet and reloading equipment manufacturers sell their versions of this kind of book, but Hornady has the best one that I have found. Actually, I have several different ones. Do not rely on opinions and 2nd and 3rd hand discussions of bullet seating or any other aspects of load specifications. Use the book! Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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