KirkV Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 How doe you scratch up a glass call to get the surface ready? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuntnMa Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 (edited) Found this for ya Conditioning Your Glass Fricton Call To “Condition” the Call To get consistent sound from our glass friction or “pot” calls we must keep them conditioned. People often don’t know what I mean when I say “conditioned”. I’m talking about breaking that hard, clear crust on the glass and giving it some texture so that the striker has something to “play” against and make turkey sounds. We need a couple of things for this. I condition a lot of calls every year and highly recommend the previously mentioned Slick Stick pictured below. This handy tool has a stone surfacer, diamond surfacer (pre 2008 model), chalk, striker tip conditioner and scouring pad. That’s everything we need except a piece of 1″ x 2″, 80-100 grit cloth-backed [sandpaper. Cloth-backed sandpaper allows us to crinkle the backing without breaking off the attached grit. Slick Sticks are available from our local sporting goods stores and the sandpaper should be available at our local auto parts store in the body repair section. The Primos Slick Stick - note the stone is nearly gone on the top one. Conditioning - One Method Just like we can tie a square knot right-over-left-left-over-right AND left-over-right-right-over-left, there are many ways to condition our calls. I prefer to condition left-to-right with the call oriented in the same direction every time. In the early morning dark of my blind it may be difficult to see the conditioning. However, I will likely be able to see the writing on the back of my dustyvarmint woodworks calls. This writing always runs in the same direction as the grain of the wood. A hunter could also use a marker to draw an arrow on the back of a call. I might shed a tear if someone drew on the back of my calls. Anyway, the pictures below illustrate the direction of conditioning. Playing the call is done against the grain. Condition the call from left to right ...Play the call from top to bottom. Edited March 1, 2009 by HuntnMa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bowhunter56 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 I use and send 80 grit Norton 3x paper with the calls i make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Covehnter Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Use a more fine grit, 180 to slick it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RatherBowHunt Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 o come on kirk lol i coulda told ya that one lol...didnt know you were a novice at this turkey hunting stuff haha jk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianJHare Posted March 4, 2009 Report Share Posted March 4, 2009 Cyrstal Glass (Hard glass) can not be conditioned proper without a stone. You can find these at a dollar store in the tool isle for sharpening tools for a buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkV Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks everyone! Even you Matt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Kid Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Found this for ya Conditioning Your Glass Fricton Call To “Condition” the Call To get consistent sound from our glass friction or “pot” calls we must keep them conditioned. People often don’t know what I mean when I say “conditioned”. I’m talking about breaking that hard, clear crust on the glass and giving it some texture so that the striker has something to “play” against and make turkey sounds. We need a couple of things for this. I condition a lot of calls every year and highly recommend the previously mentioned Slick Stick pictured below. This handy tool has a stone surfacer, diamond surfacer (pre 2008 model), chalk, striker tip conditioner and scouring pad. That’s everything we need except a piece of 1″ x 2″, 80-100 grit cloth-backed [sandpaper. Cloth-backed sandpaper allows us to crinkle the backing without breaking off the attached grit. Slick Sticks are available from our local sporting goods stores and the sandpaper should be available at our local auto parts store in the body repair section. The Primos Slick Stick - note the stone is nearly gone on the top one. Conditioning - One Method Just like we can tie a square knot right-over-left-left-over-right AND left-over-right-right-over-left, there are many ways to condition our calls. I prefer to condition left-to-right with the call oriented in the same direction every time. In the early morning dark of my blind it may be difficult to see the conditioning. However, I will likely be able to see the writing on the back of my dustyvarmint woodworks calls. This writing always runs in the same direction as the grain of the wood. A hunter could also use a marker to draw an arrow on the back of a call. I might shed a tear if someone drew on the back of my calls. Anyway, the pictures below illustrate the direction of conditioning. Playing the call is done against the grain. Condition the call from left to right ...Play the call from top to bottom. enough said haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodsman2230 Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I use 60 grit sandpaper and I sand in only one direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbeard Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I've heard you should rough it up with a thumb size piece of sheetrock sand paper, going in one direction only. Then sand with normal sand paper in one direction only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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