Goose berry plants


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There's 2 ways to do it. The first is called "layering".

The best time to do this is the fall, late September to November. Look around the lower part of the bush for a long stem which can be bent down to the ground. Gently bend it to the ground and peg it down so that about 2" or so of the stem is above ground level. Place a layer of soil on the part of the stem which is pegged to the ground.

The stem part under the soil will set down roots and can be moved to its new growing position the next autumn. Simply cut the stem growing from the mother plant as near to the ground as possible. Dig up the root ball and move as desired.

The second way is to take cuttings.

Mid fall (late September to early November) is the time to take the cuttings. Select a healthy looking stem about 9" long and cleanly cut it from the parent plant. Strip off all the side shoots except the top three. Remove any buds below the leaves with a sharp knife. Dig a small hole and add a handful of ground blood fish and bone. Work it into the soil. Set the cutting about 2" into the ground and gather soil around it. Gently firm it down. Water well and then leave alone. In the spring you should see the cutting sprout new leaves indicating that it has taken. If you want to move it do it a year after the date of taking the cutting

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If you're doing a cutting, use a root stimulator.

Good point. ;)

An IBA formula helps stimulate roots to start and also prevents rotting until the cuttings get started.

You can either buy a commercially prepared rooting hormone. Or you can make your own by pouring a gallon of boiling water over 2 or 3 cups of willow shoots (which contain IBA) and letting stand for a day. Dip the cut end of your cuttings in the willow water.

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Is it gooseberries that can be harmful to pine trees? It seems as though I heard that somewhere. Anybody know the story behind that? ........or do I have that all screwed up?

Doc

White pines, yes. :cool:

Gooseberries and currants (both related) contract, harbor and carry WPBR or White Pine Blister Rust. It isn't lethal to the berry bushes. But it will mess the foliage up big-time later in the summer. My currant bushes get it every year. My gooseberries get it to a much lesser degree. Could be the strain of bush. WPBR will kill white pine trees. Dead.

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White pines, yes. :cool:

Gooseberries and currants (both related) contract, harbor and carry WPBR or White Pine Blister Rust. It isn't lethal to the berry bushes. But it will mess the foliage up big-time later in the summer. My currant bushes get it every year. My gooseberries get it to a much lesser degree. Could be the strain of bush. WPBR will kill white pine trees. Dead.

Well, that's what I thought I had heard somewhere. That's why I thought I would mention it here on a thread that was asking about the propagation of gooseberries. Just something to keep in mind and be aware of.

Doc

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I'm really not certain of how large a buffer zone is needed between the berries and the pines. :confused:

Best bet is to by disease free and disease resitant varieties of gooseberry or currant. If you look in the catalogs, many plants are advertised as "disease resistant".

BTW......... bristlecone pine and sugar pine are also in the white pine family and will get WPBR, too.

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