Deer Hunting Help

[HunterBlake]

Last year I had trouble getting the deer to come to me in my stand, i would sit for days on days and see nothing but squirrels. I know this question is pretty broad but how do you guys get the deer to come to you? Pick your stand locations, ect?

Here is a topo map of the property that i am hunting the most and did last year. Also the main part that I hunt is the triangular piece of timber, but i can also hunt the ditches around it to.

http://www.mytopo.com/maps.cfm?search_string=bethany+missouri

I dont exactly know where I could put a stand or two so I was wondering if you guys could help me some to bag a big buck, also sorry about the broad question, thanks alot!

Blake

[12-point]

look for funnels these are generally a travel route between two ridges. I like to sit on a flat right beside the funnel most of the time the flat from the top just bc bucks like to scope the place from there for hot does. Thats rut talk. Now at the beginning of bow season i like to set at the bottom of the funnel 50 yrds from the field or on a travel route that intersects the bottom of the funnel.

[redkneck]

Pardon me if I'm wrong, but am I beginning to smell spam in this room?

hunterblake, hunterluke, both linking up mytopo.com?

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but seems a bit odd........

[HunterBlake]

Okay thanks 12 point, the property that i am going to bow hunt this year, is really just a flat piece of timber, with a crick running around the edges, on the west side of the timber there is a ditch that connects to the triangular piece, this ditch it practicly grass, with trees covering it, there are few trails in there, it then connects to a little ever green patch and then it connects with some more ditchs. I explained it the best I could, ill get some pictures and put on here of the property.

[HunterBlake]

[huntcamp]

Find the funnels find the deer. Start at the food source from a distance and watch to see where deer mainly come from. Then work your way in, earlier in the year the better. Narrow spots of cover or narrow ridge lines. Try to find an easy way in if possible. cut a small path if necassary. do not cut too much. Just something to make your entrance and exits less disturbing. Patience is most important. Good luck and good hunting.

[huntcamp]

Find the funnels find the deer. Start at the food source from a distance and watch to see where deer mainly come from. Then work your way in, earlier in the year the better. Narrow spots of cover or narrow ridge lines. Try to find an easy way in if possible. cut a small path if necassary. do not cut too much. Just something to make your entrance and exits less disturbing. Patience is most important. Good luck and good hunting.

[Texan_Til_I_Die]

Well, if you're seeing a lot of squirrels, I'd say you were in a good location for deer too. Maybe you need to think about your hunting technique.

Are you busting deer walking to your stand? Maybe you should choose another route or move the stand to a location where you can slip in quietly. Or maybe you need to get in your stand really early, like 2 hours before daylight.

Are the deer smelling you before you see them? Pay close attention to the wind and to scent control.

Are the deer seeing you? Make sure you keep motion to a minimum. Don't skylight yourself. Make sure your outline is broken up.

Are the deer hearing you? They don't like odd noises and won't stick around long if you're clinking your binos or if your clothes are "scratchy" sounding.

In other words, review the basics and make sure you're doing everything right. When I stop seeing deer, it's usually because of something like that instead of me hunting in the wrong location.

Good Luck!!!

[wtnhunt]

Welcome to the forums Blake.

Well, if you're seeing a lot of squirrels, I'd say you were in a good location for deer too. Maybe you need to think about your hunting technique.

Are you busting deer walking to your stand? Maybe you should choose another route or move the stand to a location where you can slip in quietly. Or maybe you need to get in your stand really early, like 2 hours before daylight.

Are the deer smelling you before you see them? Pay close attention to the wind and to scent control.

Are the deer seeing you? Make sure you keep motion to a minimum. Don't skylight yourself. Make sure your outline is broken up.

Are the deer hearing you? They don't like odd noises and won't stick around long if you're clinking your binos or if your clothes are "scratchy" sounding.

In other words, review the basics and make sure you're doing everything right. When I stop seeing deer, it's usually because of something like that instead of me hunting in the wrong location.

Good Luck!!!

Think Texan Til I Die probably nailed it here. If there are squirrels around, pretty likely deer are also around but you are not seeing them while you are there for various reasons.

For standsites, would look for funnels or pinchpoints, especially along the edge of the water. Cannot really pinpoint anything on your topo without knowing boundaries.

[HunterBlake]

Well, if you're seeing a lot of squirrels, I'd say you were in a good location for deer too. Maybe you need to think about your hunting technique.

Are you busting deer walking to your stand? Maybe you should choose another route or move the stand to a location where you can slip in quietly. Or maybe you need to get in your stand really early, like 2 hours before daylight.

Are the deer smelling you before you see them? Pay close attention to the wind and to scent control.

Are the deer seeing you? Make sure you keep motion to a minimum. Don't skylight yourself. Make sure your outline is broken up.

Are the deer hearing you? They don't like odd noises and won't stick around long if you're clinking your binos or if your clothes are "scratchy" sounding.

In other words, review the basics and make sure you're doing everything right. When I stop seeing deer, it's usually because of something like that instead of me hunting in the wrong location.

Good Luck!!!

Thanks huntcamp I will try that, Texan I think you might be right, my stand is made out of aluminum and usually my boots will squeek on it some, i will probably bolt carpet down on the bottom so it wont squeek. I could of been moving to much to, i move at every noise that i hear, I will work on that, i know i am not busting them while going into my stand, think they are hearing me in my stand and probably seeing me, but i will fix that! I might also try and get to the stand two hours before daylight and see if that helps any to.

wtnhunt: What bounderies are you talking about?

[The_Kat]

I wouldn't go as far as getting to a stand two hours before daylight, but 30 minutes is good. Have you ever seen a deer in the area you are hunting in? Is there good sign? Trust me I have hunted spots and seen squirrells a plenty and never seen a deer. I look for fresh poop. If theres fresh poop then you know deer use the area. Try moving around til you have sucess in a spot. Remember, just cause a spot looks good to you, doesn't mean it looks good to the deer. Thats one of my biggest problems of getting over. My best stand here at Texoma doesn't look like an area for deer to move in, yet I see deer everytime that I don't have a hunter come ruin the hunt for me first. Best of luck to you!

[wtnhunt]

wtnhunt: What bounderies are you talking about?

That topo covers a good bit of ground, you have hunting priveledges on the entire map, or are there boundaries? Would help to know a little more.

Might help to also look at an aerial. Pinpoint food sources, once you know the food sources you can get a better idea where the deer might be traveling and have a better idea where to setup a stand/stands.

[sskybnd]

they all have said good points, and have covered the basics, being you have an open field, and your trees seem to be on a hill top, i would take a spotting scope and find a good vantage point away from it and see how the deer are moving through the area, and place a stand acording to what i see, thermals travel down hill in the morning and up hill in the evening as it gets hotter so they might be winding you before you even see them,

[buckee]

Everyone has given you some great tips above, but if you are not within shooting distance to a deer trail, your chances dwindle. I like to find a place, (whether it be a funnel or not) where 2 or more deer trails intersect. They are hot-spots for action, when the deer are going to and from their feeding area.

Prevailing wind direction is important. Take time to find out which direction the wind blows from **Most** of the time, and set up accordingly downwind from the trails.

[Zambo]

Lot's of great advice on here already. If you can afford it purchase a couple of trail camera's and start setting them up. Also put out some minerals in a block or powder and put your camera over the mineral. Make note of the direction they are coming from and the time of day they get there picture taken. Good luck.

[HunterBlake]

I wouldn't go as far as getting to a stand two hours before daylight, but 30 minutes is good. Have you ever seen a deer in the area you are hunting in? Is there good sign? Trust me I have hunted spots and seen squirrells a plenty and never seen a deer. I look for fresh poop. If theres fresh poop then you know deer use the area. Try moving around til you have sucess in a spot. Remember, just cause a spot looks good to you, doesn't mean it looks good to the deer. Thats one of my biggest problems of getting over. My best stand here at Texoma doesn't look like an area for deer to move in, yet I see deer everytime that I don't have a hunter come ruin the hunt for me first. Best of luck to you!

I have saw 5 different bucks there and then the people that live at the apartments saw a wide 10 last year, jump deer up every time i walk in there, they always come back though.

[HunterBlake]

That topo covers a good bit of ground, you have hunting priveledges on the entire map, or are there boundaries? Would help to know a little more.

Might help to also look at an aerial. Pinpoint food sources, once you know the food sources you can get a better idea where the deer might be traveling and have a better idea where to setup a stand/stands.

Oh ya, I can hunt all of that in that topo map. Been trying to pinpoint the food sources for some time, there isnt any corn fields for atleast 9 miles, there are a bunch of acorns, but that is where i have been hunting and seeing nothing.

[HunterBlake]

Thanks guys, I will get my best friend and have him come with me and we will set up my trail cam and put some mineral out. I have got an idea where they are staying, but not quite for sure, I will just go set up my trail camera there and see what comes up to it! Thanks again.

[treeinwalker]

I have saw 5 different bucks there and then the people that live at the apartments saw a wide 10 last year, jump deer up every time i walk in there, they always come back though.

Technique is probably where you're having trouble. I would definitely take these guys' advice and look at what you're doing. Jumping deer on the way in is the first problem you need to address. They might come back, but not give you a shot because the know your general locale. Things like timing and approach to the stand are often more important than the exact stand location. You could be off 50 yards and still get a deer that doesn't know you're there to come to you. A list of things you need to cover first follows:

1.) Scent control: Are you doing it? Do you smell like washing powder or Aquafresh toothpaste, coffee, or cigarettes? Did you pump gas on the way home last night while wearing your clothes, etc.? Here is my routine:

a.) NEVER pump gas before a hunt. If I

know I'm not hunting on Monday,

I pump gas on Monday. I don't get

near a gas pump or even visit friends

who smoke in my hunting clothes.

Some guys take this to the extreme

by not even getting into them before

they get to their spot or even their

stands! This is a little crazy since the

clothes they wear on the way in are

probably contaminated. Keep your

hunting clothes away from anything

with a big odor. Put them on just

before you leave, or right after you

arrive at your spot.

b.) Start early: I start washing ALL my

clothes in SportWash in August before

I start putting out cameras and baiting

stands (in NC bating with corn through-

out the year is legal). This gives any

odors that may be in my vehicle from

my clothing time to disippate before

hunting season and anything I might

wear to check cameras, etc. is scent-

controlled. By the time hunting season

starts, all the clothes in my closet are

free of detergent scent and my truck is

(for the most part) also. I also begin

using Hunter's Specialties body wash,

shampoo and deodorant by this time,

so perfumes from soap don't get into

my now otherwise "oderless" clean

clothing. Wash your bedding with

scent-killing odorless detergent also.

c.) Don't use cologne: Lots of young guys

like to spray thier girlfriend's favorite

cologne in thier vehicles so it smells

like them all the time and when the

gilrfriend borrows their truck, she'll be

thinking of them. DON'T even keep

the bottle in the vehicle. GET IT OUT!!

d.) Don't wash your truck: I give my truck

a good thurel about 4 weeks before

deer season because I know it will be

trashed by the end of deer season.

Don't use any Amorall or anything that

has a strong odor to it. Keep it simple.

If you get it muddy during the season

and you got to clean it up for a hot

date, wash it with plain water and

vaccum it out. Don't use any industrial

-type cleaners that leave odor residue

that can get on your clothing. Wait

until after deer season for Amoralling &

all that other spiffy-making stuff.

e.) Use boots with no or little leather:

Leather is the first thing to start stink-

ing. Finding boots these days is hard.

You're limited to basically, leather

boots or rubber boots, which also stink.

Lots of folks think that wearing rubber

boots means a deer can't smell you.

This is balogne! Deer learn to react

through association. If they get shot at

or startled by the thwack of an arrow,

or get spooked off the bed by a hunter

wearing rubber boots, they can learn to

associate the danger with the smell of

rubber boot just as easily as they can

learn to associate the smell of a stinky

hunter to danger. If you have a good,

comfortable boot, keep it sprayed down

with scent killer and wash them about

every 2-3 weeks depending on how

much you hunt. I'd rather have a warm

comfortable water-proof all cordura

boot that I have scent-controlled than

an ill-fitting, stinky rubber boot that I

can still smell in the back of my truck

3 days after I have taken them out.

Remember, the key is going as scent

free as possible, not changing your

smell from "stinky hunter" to "stinky

rubber".

f.) Spray down: Hang up your clothes the

night before where nothing will attach

to them. Make sure they are clean. I

like to use the Fresh-Earth scented

dryer sheets, but I also spray the scent-

killer "Fresh-Earth" on the clothes and

let it dry. Cover scents are not as

important as scent-elimination because

a deer's sense of smell is so accute that

they can smell ALL the odors in the mix.

If your clothes smell like your smoker-

friend's house and you squirt doe urine

on your boots, the deer are going to

smell the urine AND the cigarettes. If

they smelled cigarettes on the next

farm over right before they got an

arrow whizzed by thier head, they are

going to know that they are in danger

whether you're smoking one or not.

Don't worry about covering scents,

worry about ELIMINATING as much

scent as possible and remember while

eliminating it all is impossible, controll-

ing it is easily acchievable. Deer will

interperate the strength of a threaten-

ing odor as the iminance of the threat.

In other words, the stronger an odor is,

the closer it usually is and the faster

they need to react. The stronger the

odor, the stronger the deer's evasive

action to avoid it. Just because they

smell you doesn't mean they'll avoid

you, but if they smell enough of you

and they have learned that your odor

means danger, they will bug-out.

Spraying down a gun or bow the night

before a hunt is not a bad idea either.

g.) Scent-free bag: Lots of trash bags now

come infused with some type of

perfume. How someone thought this

would beat-out the odor of fried

summer catfish is beyond me. There

are expensive "scent-control" bags on

the market, but you don't need those

either. Get yourself a large lawn &

garden trashbag. They are unscented

and are big enough to hold all your

hunting clothes. I keep my clothes in

one in my truck unless they need

washing. Don't bring them inside.

Scent control seems like a lot of work. If you do it for a few weeks, you'll find that you are merely replacing all the perfume-loaded products you normally use with products that aren't, and that they don't cost any more. After you've done it for a few weeks, you'll find that it's really as easy as swapping the stinky stuff out for the odorless stuff. Also, you will realize just how much everything you were using really does smell too strong. You won't be able to get near a person wearing Right-Guard deodorant without puking from the overpowering smell. You'll begin to smell the faintest of odors you never could smell before because you no longer smell like them. After I started using scent-controlling products, I could walk 40 yards down-wind from my hunting partner and smell his deodorant. How far away do you think a deer who can smell 250X better than me could smell it? Deer live and die by thier noses. Scent control is the first place to start when going after deer-not so much for squirrel hunting, but you gotta understand the species you're going after and how they survive because that's what you have to beat to succeed.

2.) Approach: Wether or not your stand is in the right location, are you taking the right approach to your stand? Are you coming in under cover or down the edge of a big open field? If you gotta cross anything open, you'd better do it before there is ANY light out. Deer can see colors in the Ultraviolet end of the spectrum. Ultraviolet rays are the first ones to make it to through the atmosphere in the mornings and the last ones around in the evenings. Get there at least 30 min. before the sun comes up.

Also, are you coming in up-wind form a bedding area? If so, you need a different approach or you need to relocate the stand so that it is adjacent to a beding area, but allows you to approach form the down-wind side.

Are you being quiet or wlking too fast? If you have a long hike, you need to get there even earlier. Walking too fast makes waaaaay too much nose. If you walk 100 yards any faster than 5 minutes, you're walking too fast and making too much noise. If you have a stand that you have to approach through the woods, rake the last 50 yards of your route to the stand. Get rid of all the crunchy leaves and twigs that could snap under your boots in the dark.

3.) Are there other hunters in your area?: If you have a neighbor that has a huge corn pile, food plot or salt lick, it's going to be tough to get them to come to your neck of the woods. Usually, you have to find something that they need that he does't have: cover, water, terrain, or commonly used scrapes. The good thing about having a hunting neighbor is that not many of them are controlling scent as well as you now are. They spook 5X as many deer as they ever get to see, so the deer might hit his 1/2-acre corn pile at night and browse your 10-acre bean field or river edge for water during the morning. Find out what you have that the deer want and he doesn't have. Get near that spot. Make sure you can approach it undetected.

4.) What time are the deer showing up?: You might not be there when they are. A scouting camera might help nail down better times for you. Find the thickest part on the property and that's wher they'll bed if they're bedding on your property. Put up a camera. If they're coming in or heading out at certain times regularly, you need to be there before those times.

5.) How much sign do you find?: If you're not finding mcuh sign, maybe some preseason scouting trips are in order. This might give you a good idea as to just how many deer like your hunting spot and where they are coming from that might help you find a new stand location. Be careful: if you're doing preseason scouting, it's important not to spook them out before the season arrives. If you get pinned-down, wait until dark and/or the deer are gone to move and get out quietly. Make sure you're in full-scent control mode before doing this. Take your binos and try to scout from afar as much as possible.

There are many other things that could improve your hunting. Stand location +/- a few yards won't make as much difference as all these other things and some I just don't have time to get into or want to bore everyone with. Form the pics, I'd say your hunting spot looks pretty darn good. It looks like it would be full of deer, but you need to find the thick cover, make sure you can approach it undetected and make sure all your other ducks are in a row before you start out towards the stand. Hope I've shed some light on a few things that will be helpful to you.

-tw

Edited July 14, 2009 by treeinwalker

[SpcNape]

DON'T GIVE UP!!! I have been hunting my 1000 acre property for about seven years now. It took me about four years to get things figured out. Partly because I had some learning to do, and the other part was that I had a ton of land and just couldn't narrow my hunting down. I had a vast amount of land thrown in my lap when I got married and I just had overload. Take all of the great info your getting in this forum, and take it step by step. If your bowhunting, be ready for some disappointments. Look forward to seeing your post this fall of the deer you're gonna get.

[RangerClay]

I see a great funnel in that first picture you posted. On the backside of your pond it looks like a funnel between to larger pieces of property plus there is water for the deer to drink. That would be the first place I would go look.