Plumbing questions...


Jeramie

Recommended Posts

Number 1

My well is the above ground pump with a foot valve at the bottom. Ive had the house about 4-years and ive had a problem the last couple of years. If I run a hosebib it loses the prime and I have to prime the well.

However, the house is restricted enough I can run a dishwasher and washer at the same time and the pump keeps up. Its only when I run the HB? If you dont open the valve all the way it will not need primed. Its only at 100% open that it causes trouble.

Ive been told the foot valve was bad but have never changed a foot valve and dont know if that could be the problem.

Number 2

Being that we really only want the well water for drinking and the like, we are talking about running city water to the house to water, water livestock, etc.

We paid for a tap a few years ago because the city wasnt going to offer any more. Now we are thinking about running the line 600' to the house. I have to go under a shallow creek (about 4' below grade). Oklahoma's frostline requirements is only about 24". Would standard PVC work? What size? Or what would be the best to run that length without breaks? Backfill with gravel/ sand?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Number 1

My well is the above ground pump with a foot valve at the bottom. Ive had the house about 4-years and ive had a problem the last couple of years. If I run a hosebib it loses the prime and I have to prime the well.

However, the house is restricted enough I can run a dishwasher and washer at the same time and the pump keeps up. Its only when I run the HB? If you dont open the valve all the way it will not need primed. Its only at 100% open that it causes trouble.

Ive been told the foot valve was bad but have never changed a foot valve and dont know if that could be the problem.

Number 2

Being that we really only want the well water for drinking and the like, we are talking about running city water to the house to water, water livestock, etc.

We paid for a tap a few years ago because the city wasnt going to offer any more. Now we are thinking about running the line 600' to the house. I have to go under a shallow creek (about 4' below grade). Oklahoma's frostline requirements is only about 24". Would standard PVC work? What size? Or what would be the best to run that length without breaks? Backfill with gravel/ sand?

Sounds to me like a broken underground H2o line. If your maintaining a prime running everything else, troubleshoot and cap off what you think may be the root of the problem (your HB).

Pulling the foot valve is no big deal to check for propper function depending how deep your well is. If it don't rattle it ain't workin. Most of the time you can blow them out, but as long as you go to the trouble ya may as well replace it for the cost of time and labor.

If you loose prime over extended periods of non usage one of the two is your main problem

#2- DO NOT USE PVC ON PRESSURED LINES

PEX piping is the way to go codes permitting where your at. It has super memmory with no underground connections, and if you go with upgraded Fosta Pex can even hook up a thawing machine if need be to this plastic product as it is encased in a metal sleave.

Far as line diameter, for most residential propperties you will be able to get away with a 3/4" main feed to a dwelling of 30'ish fixture units or so. It won't hurt none to run 1" underground and bush it at the pump to 3/4". Chances are you have a 1" inlet anyhow but it's really just overkill to run that throughout the house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds to me like a broken underground H2o line. If your maintaining a prime running everything else, troubleshoot and cap off what you think may be the root of the problem (your HB).

Pulling the foot valve is no big deal to check for propper function depending how deep your well is. If it don't rattle it ain't workin. Most of the time you can blow them out, but as long as you go to the trouble ya may as well replace it for the cost of time and labor.

If you loose prime over extended periods of non usage one of the two is your main problem

#2- DO NOT USE PVC ON PRESSURED LINES

PEX piping is the way to go codes permitting where your at. It has super memmory with no underground connections, and if you go with upgraded Fosta Pex can even hook up a thawing machine if need be to this plastic product as it is encased in a metal sleave.

Far as line diameter, for most residential propperties you will be able to get away with a 3/4" main feed to a dwelling of 30'ish fixture units or so. It won't hurt none to run 1" underground and bush it at the pump to 3/4". Chances are you have a 1" inlet anyhow but it's really just overkill to run that throughout the house.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. It loses prime at any HB. It only restricted lines that wont cause it to lose prime. I Have a three HB's and any of the three will cause the problem!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure about your well situation but as far as running PVC from the tap to your house I would take woolybear's advice with the PEX. I've got 3/4" heavy wall PVC running from my well to my house and outdoor fixtures and have had some issues, but not many.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can try this too. alot cheaper if it works. Try it on one, just don't break off the set screw and you can return it. Could be a # of things but this is where I'd start before getting too involved in a costly repipe if it's not the problem.

:popUp('/prod_images/hi-res/default.asp?imgId=908',665,725)'>8.jpg

:popUp('/prod_images/hi-res/default.asp?imgId=908',665,725)'>enlarge.jpg

8

Hose Connection Vacuum Breakers, Brass

Size(s):

3/4 in. (20mm)

Description:

Series 8 Hose Connection Vacuum Breakers permit the attachment of portable hoses to hose thread faucets and prevent the reverse flow of polluted water into the potable water supply due to backsiphonage. It consists of a brass body construction, stainless steel working parts, and a rubber diaphragm and disc. Series 8 is ideal for inside and outside, health hazard installations requiring non-continuous pressure such as service sinks, swimming pools, photo developing tanks, laundry tubs, wash racks, dairy barns, marinas, and general outside gardening uses. Check with local inspection authorities for installation requirements. Maximum Pressure:125psi (8.6 bar).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.