lil hunter Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 I got a Summit Viper SS for christmas last year, and will be hunting out of it for the first time this year. I just have a few questions for those of you with more experience than me. First, how straight of a tree do you need? Can you climb a tree with knots and such in it? What about limbs, do any of you carry a small saw to cut off some low hanging limbs, so you can climb higher, or do you just find a tree with no low limbs on it? Do you wear a climbing harness sure you are safe the entire time you're climbing, or do you just put your normal safety harness on when you reach the point where you're going to stop? When you use a rope to pull your bow up, do you just leave the rope tied to the climber, or do you carry one with one in a pack/bag? And lastly, are the footrests worth $40. Part of me wants one, but part of my doesn't want to spend that much for one. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 OK Lil...1st the straighter the tree the better. It needs to be relatively straight though. Climbers are more apt to slip or shift on slick bark trees too. Climbing trees with knots and such on them isn't easy especially when climbing down. Getting the platform section past those knots while climbing down can be a real challenge. Getting past them climbing up is easier but you still have to climb down the tree. I avoid climbing trees with knots in them, especially if there are a lot. I always carry a Browning folding saw with me hunting. It comes in handy for cutting a lot a things including small limbs in a tree you pick to climb. I don't always have my safety belt attached to the tree while I'm climbing. I do if I have to climb a slick bark tree though. I have pull up ropes attached to all my tree stands, not just my climbers. I also carry a spare with me in my pack all the time in case I decide to pull up my fanny pack after I'm set in the tree. The foot rest is your call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuz Doctor Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 i have the same climber plus three api climbers. i always attach to straight trees with no knots or limbs. i put on the safety harness after i reach desired height while sitting facing the tree and before i stand up. i do use the footrest. i leave the pull-up rope attached to the stand. i generally climb between 20-25 feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layin on the smackdown Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Hit this link...There is a ton of good advice from a previous thread regarding climbers and all that jazz...hope it helps. http://www.realtree.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89113 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lil hunter Posted August 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 So for those of you who keep your pull-up ropes attached to the stand, how you do roll them up, or keep them from hanging loose when your packing the stand in and out? I always use one to, just trying to decide the best way to go about it. lol Also, anyone ever climb a telephone pole? Thats all I have in my backyard to practice climbing on. I plan on taking it out to the farm and practicing on some real trees too, but just curious about the telephone pole idea too, because it would be way more convenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoytHunter5293 Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 being a newbie at climbing i would stay away from knots , i put my HSS on when i get to my height , usually 25- 30 ft , i just keep my rope tied on to my stand and it is 30 ft long so usually when i feel the weight of my bow i quit climbing , practice till you can do it in the dark ,dont be worried about making a little noise because ive noticed that before daylight the deer really dont get spooked, being new at it try and stay away from smooth barked trees i try and climb cherry, and number one BE SAFE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HoytHunter5293 Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 So for those of you who keep your pull-up ropes attached to the stand, how you do roll them up, or keep them from hanging loose when your packing the stand in and out? I always use one to, just trying to decide the best way to go about it. lol Also, anyone ever climb a telephone pole? Thats all I have in my backyard to practice climbing on. I plan on taking it out to the farm and practicing on some real trees too, but just curious about the telephone pole idea too, because it would be way more convenient. i tie mine to the stand once i put it around the tree and let it hang down when im hunting then lower my bow and un tie it when im done and ive never climbed a telephone pole but i wonldnt just me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layin on the smackdown Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Shag bark hickory trees suck to climb...the bad part is, they are normally a very straight tree. They are loud because of the shag bark constantly catching on the stand, and the shag bark is a very hard substance that will move as your stand settles in...Try and stay away from using those trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Hey, sometimes you just gotta climb whatevers there. Pines climb great, but next time you go up you got sap everywhere. I have climbed an elect pole on a powerline once. I dont recommend doing that! Too hard to get a bite on. I keep a Gerber folding saw in my pocket, a saw is a must!!! It only takes a few goofy trees to climb and you'll be a master at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhine16 Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 So for those of you who keep your pull-up ropes attached to the stand, how you do roll them up, or keep them from hanging loose when your packing the stand in and out? I always use one to, just trying to decide the best way to go about it. lol I have a small pouch that velcros around one of the bars on my climber.... I just roll the rope up and stick it in the pouch. Much easier than having to worry about tying it around your stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinger-Hunter Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 My rule of thumb is this: If I do this and fall, will someone tell me I was an idiot? If the answer is yes, then i don't do it. A lot of guys are talking about climbing 20 feet up - that is your call, but 15 is my limit. I figure if I need to get that high, I'll build something sturdy. I'm not afraid of heights, but I am afraid of falling from heights. In the winter when all is white, it is easy to get disoriented. When the wind is blowing over 15-20 miles an hour, that height is a bit too much for me. The answer to your question is simple - practice climbing a few times and you'll know exactly what to do. Waiting until opening day is a bad idea - it takes 50-200% more time your first time climbing with a climber than your second and third time and you make twice as much noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LifeNRA Posted August 19, 2009 Report Share Posted August 19, 2009 Always climb a straight tree! No knots! ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HARNESS ONCE YOUR IN THE CLIMBER! PERIOD!!! You probably got a DVD with your climber, watch it, learn it, do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikekiller Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 Lil...a couple of things I havnt seen addressed yet...first always make sure that the you have the climber and the platform tied together...so if the platform drops off your feet while climbing it wont drop down where you cant reach it. I personally like a foot rest....really helps after a couple of hours. Just practice low at first and take your time...if done right modern climbing stands are quite safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickel Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 First of all you should never assume that you are safe when you climb a tree, always wear a safety harness. Second the tree should be somewhat straight, there can be little bends and knots and yes i do carry a saw and an extra string and loop to lower the branch down. Good luck those are really nice slimbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary in Ohio Posted August 20, 2009 Report Share Posted August 20, 2009 (edited) I just got a Summit 180 a week ago. The 180 is very similar to the Viper. It's my first stand so I'm still a newbie. I've climbed 6 times on 5 trees. The others are correct climb a few trees. The first couple of times were tricky. But it got easier the more times I did it. Always wear your harness and stay attached to the tree. It doesn't add much to your climbing time. Also, when you attach your stand, it should be at more on an incline than you think you need. It's not too big of a problem to sit in an inclined stand. But if don't incline it enough, you'll have to go back down and adjust it. Lastly remember everything you need to do, make a list it helps. You don't want to get half way up the tree and realize that you didn't connect the platform to the climber (did that). Or that you didn't attach the haul line or that your cables are not properly attached (didn't do either of those). Edited August 20, 2009 by Gary in Ohio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swamphunter Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 Yes the footrests are worth $40.... the pain in your butt cheek you feel is usually caused by the compression of the sciatic nerve.... putting your feet up on the rest will relieve this. The thing I learned is that keep the foot platform and the seat closer together than you think you will like... because you WILL like it better. I always liked setting them far enough apart that I could stand up easily to relieve that pain in my backside. Until a member here told me it was caused by the pressure on the back of my thigh. I kept them closer together after that and am SO MUCH MORE comfortable. I sit somedays for 8 hrs in that stand and have done as many as 10 hrs, without ever coming down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elkoholic Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I think all the points have been covered, but I would like to reiterate the need to attach the safety harness before your feet leave the ground and not remove it until they touch the ground again. The time required to climb to a height of 20 feet is minimal and the added time to move the harness tether up on the tree after each climbing step or two is of little significance. This is my personal regiment. All essentials necessary are kept in a small pack attached to the stand. I have knots in the pull-up rope at 15, 18 and 20 feet so that I am aware of the height I'm at, which can depend on the situation. I carry a small saw to remove branches and have no trouble negotiating small knots. Any tree stand will work best if there is sufficient cover behind and above you. I also carry an extra release with me as having to climb down to retrieve one I dropped cost me a shot at a nice buck once. One last thing, practice in the dark. Good luck and be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sskybnd Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 all are great points, i carry a small saw to cut the limbs as needed, my climber doesnt require a straight tree but i try to find the straightest one i can find, 2 things i can say you should make sure of is that weather it be a slick bark or soft, and that is make sure your stand has a good grab on the bark before moving, and when you get to the height you intend to hunt if your stand has the 2 staps that hold the 2 together make sure they are tight before moving, i always shake the 2 back and forth to insure they are tight together,than you can reach over to pull up your bow or gun with out the bottom going one way and the top going another, and when you have your safty harness on place it higher up the tree incase of a fall you wont have far to pull your self back up to the stand, than having it lower on the tree and being below the stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 (edited) A picture is worth a lot of words.My pack for climbing below.My pull up rope is 30 ft and I connect to my bow and let the slack lie at the base of the tree. The other part of the rope connects to my pack. Sometimes I go above 30 feet and the bow just goes up as I pass 30 feet. The rope is in the picture. Also note the headlamp flashlight. Go somewhere and practice on real trees. Get a couple feet off the ground and try the safety harness out. Make sure you are using it correctly. I wear my harness once I leave the truck and attach to the rope that goes around the tree once I start climbing. I hate to say this, but sometimes I get lazy and just hook up once I'm at the top. Since you're just starting out, I'd advise you to do it right starting out and you will not develop bad and unsafe habbits. Regarding the foot rest...http://www.realtree.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88915 Edited August 23, 2009 by fly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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