Cleaning your guns


ALAN

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't cleaned my shotgun barrel since I got it. It usually stays pretty clean though because I use it quite a bit. I did however take it completely apart except for the trigger assembly, and cleaned everything. Then went over everything with a light coat of Break Free CLP. I'm sold on that stuff, and it works wonders smoothing up action slide, and pump.

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I use the Bore Snake after hunting to get the moisture and junk out but don't really use them for a thorough cleaning. For that I use Shooter's Choice or Hoppes and a brass bore brush and patches.

Bore Snakes are great though for that quick clean needed almost daily when hunting if it rains or otherwise gets dirty.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I'll use a brass brush on a cleaning rod and attach it to a cordless drill to do a thorough job in the barrel. I usually run a patch cloth through first with some Hoppe's on it, then use the drill and brass brush, then run a clean patch through with a light amount of oil on it.

I try to do that once or twice a year to ensure no build up in the barrel accumulates. The rest of the gun is then just wiped down with a lightly oiled clean cloth or kleenex. On my semi, I pull the receiver apart, use a soft brush to clean away any loose dirt or debris, then lightly oil it. I don't use any oil on the gas cylinder and rings and just wipe them down dry. I have found oiling or even siliconing has lent itself to the accumulation of dirt from the gasses and slows down the auto ejection function.

I have a few old cleaning kits that I bought years ago and some I inherited from my dad. I've been looking at some of the Tipton cleaning gear, and wouldn't mind getting some new toys from them.

TBow

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I disassemble the rifle/shotgun/pistol/muzzleloader to its main components (I generally will not disassemble the trigger unit)...wipe off with an old tee-shirt...and an old toothbrush...

Spray a light coat of Break Free on the components...and gently wipe dry (leaving a very thin amount in place).

The barrel is swabbed first with a wad with either Break Free or Nitro-solvent and let set for about 10 minutes. That is followed by 6-10 passes with a bronze-wire brush on a full length rod (get the 36" shotgun rod...removing the adapter tip allows you to use standard rifle brushes). Then several patches until clean and dry. I finish the barrel with a light coat of Break Free and a single dry patch.

Reassemble the weapon...place a light coat of Break Free on another piece of tee-shirt and wipe down all metal surfaces.

Buff all wooden surfaces with a dry cloth.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I use an Otis gun cleaning kit. These are made a few miles away from where I live and I know the business owner personally.

The kit I have [ Elite] has all the cleaning materials you need for .17 up to 10 ga. and everything in between. The brushes are all marked and you get a card telling you which one to use for each caliber. The brushes don't wear out quickly and are a perfect fit. The patch design is great as you can use just a couple different patches for all the different calibers. A little practice with pinching the patch and you are good to go.

The solvents in the kit are very effective and don't have that obnoxious odor some others have.

This kit is all inclusive and I would recommend it highly to anyone.

Lynn

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I use an Outers Tico Tool for shotguns. They work great for removing powder residue from the bore. To clean the chokes which can easily get plastic fouling from the wad I use a blend of solvents that I soak the choke tube in.

For the gas systems used in the 1100/1187,390/391's of mine I used gun scrubber and nitro solvent. I then use Fastex on the actions of everything including doubles.

BTW, a little oil or grease on a O/U's hinge pin will go a long ways in reducing friction. I am not that fanantical about having the sqeaky clean. On my target 391 Trap I'll just give it a wipe down with a silicon cloth after casual use and thouroughly clean about every 3000 rounds.

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