installing a prehung entry/exterior door?

[muggs]

I plan on replacing a total of three exterior/entry doors on my house. I was going to just buy prehung doors from the Home Depot and pay a carpenter to install them but he wants $400 per door.

Even if I had that kind of a budget, I still don't think I'd pay this guy $1,200 on principal alone.

I've already replaced 13 interior doors in my house with prehung doors and it was pretty easy, but I'm sure an exterior door is going be a little more involved.

I can do the door on the side on our garage first to practice before moving onto the doors on the house itself. I guess the only thing I'm a little puzzled on is the aluminum casing or flashing (whatever you call it??) that you have to put up. Or do you even have to do that?

My main concern is weather/water proofing it correctly.

Any tips? I think I have all the tools, finish nailer, compressor, levels, etc...

Edited January 20, 2010 by muggs

[toddyboman]

Any tips?

Hire a cheaper carpenter :hammer1:

I was told its is just as easy as the interior doors.....but I have never done an exterior just interior as you mentioned. But I do know that pre-hung is the way to go!

[redkneck]

If you've installed interior doors, it's a piece of cake. If you've got a wood door, its a matter of plum and leveling and using the brickmold to nail through. You mentioned aluminum, the doors I've used come with a nailfin that will either be attached or you attach it and then nail it up. Being an entry door be sure to have lots of shims and get it nailed a lot more than an interior door. Plum, level, and square and you'll save yourself some $.

[muggs]

If you've installed interior doors, it's a piece of cake. If you've got a wood door, its a matter of plum and leveling and using the brickmold to nail through. You mentioned aluminum, the doors I've used come with a nailfin that will either be attached or you attach it and then nail it up. Being an entry door be sure to have lots of shims and get it nailed a lot more than an interior door. Plum, level, and square and you'll save yourself some $.

Thanks. What do you mean by brickmold? I'm not sure if we'll be putting up a wood door, or if it will be metal. I guess it all depends on the price, features, style etc...

[buckee]

Are you talking about that drip-cap that goes over the top of the door, and underneath your existing siding ? That is very important. Without the drip cap, your frame will get water damage in no time, and rot out.

After you've installed the door, and before you put the trim back on, use some of that spray insulation foam to insulate around the frame where the shims are. But make sure you get the right stuff, that doesn't expand too much, and don't go crazy spraying too mush in there, or you'll have trouble with the frame tightening up on the door too much.

If your whatever reason you do end up with the door not closing properly, and binding on you...instead of shaving some off the side of the door, take off whatever hinge is appropriate, Chisel out a bit, and reset the hinge. This will pull the door over to where it will open and close without binding.

Steve Beilgard will be able to give you some great advice, since he builds houses for a living.

Edited January 20, 2010 by buckee

[mossyhorn]

I worked as a laborer for six months. I dont know a lot but was able to do it myself. I think it has a lot to do with confidence. WEll that and make sure it is the right size. My wife bought the door and it was 2 inches to tall so I had to break out the sawzall and take some of the header out. Just make sure you square it up and plum the door. If that seemed like gibberish then maybe get someone to do it.

[wtnhunt]

Think from the sounds of it you can do it yourself Eric. Some good advice already given above from Steve and John. Flashing and sealing are very important, yes you most certainly do want to do that.

[muggs]

Yes, the drip cap. That's the stuff, forget the name but I have heard it desribed as that. Mossy, I understood every word. It's a standard opening, I think the rough opening will be 36".

I also put a new ceramic floor in the kitchen and the landing that will be inside the back door of the house, so I think I'll have to put in a 1/2" piece of plywood to act as a spacer to give a little more clearance so we can put down a welcome mat etc...

I think I have this, just need to watch a tutorial on putting in drip cap, and I'll be set. Thanks for the help guys.

[muggs]

actually, one quick thought, I'll be putting up a storm door on two of the three doors...do I still need drip cap on those doors or will the storm door frame have water proofing stuff like that?

[buckee]

If it's just an additional storm-door, I don't think you need another drip cap. The drip cap over the existing main door is good enough.

[Orion_70]

$400 per door:hammer1: That's just nuts!!! If you've installed interior, it won't be a problem. It would be hard for me to not laugh at the guy's face quoting me that price..

[redkneck]

Thanks. What do you mean by brickmold? I'm not sure if we'll be putting up a wood door, or if it will be metal. I guess it all depends on the price, features, style etc...

Brickmold is the trim on the outside of wood doors. You nail through it to secure the door to the studs. Alum clad doors often use a plastic nailfin and alum dripcap up top (or the ones we used to build did). What is the siding on your house? that makes all the difference in door/window replacement. Brick homes can take a lot of hammer and chisel use to get removed.

[NS whitetail]

I will add .......... lots of silicone and make sure to put lots under the sill, believe it or not........... water can get up under that doorsill.

[stevebeilgard]

so far, you have lots of good advice. most exterior doors are 36" for the door. with jamb, it's 37 1/2" wide x 82" high. 82 1/4 x 38" should be your rough opening size. here's the plan: take the old door out, and clean the opening well. plum the hinge side. it should be perfect. if not, shim the hinge side to plumb. the door you get at home depot should have a wood trim on one side, 1 1/4" thick called brick mold.

now, set the door in the rough opening and make sure it sits level and plumb. make sure all the closing screws are removed and the door opens freely. if it's good and working properly remove the door. silicone around the brick mold on the backside, where the brick mold will meet the house, and put 2 half inch thick lines of silicone on the floor where the threshold of the new door will sit. from one end to the other and up the sides 1". gently lift the new door over the silicone, set the door in place, and reaffirm plumb and level. now, SCREW one 3 1/2 inch screw to the brickmold on the hinge side to the cripple and stud, either on the top or bottom. re-plumb. if all is good, screw 3 more screws to the hinge side and 3 or 4 to the stricker plate side. (door knob side). it should take you 10 minutes max once the old door is out and the hole is clean. that's how bad your carpenter wanted to rip you off. let the silicone set for a few hours before you use it.

[redkneck]

One other thing, not to beat a dead horse, but be sure to measure your wall thickness. There's no adjustment like on your interior pre-hungs. Just take the measurement from the ouside face of the stud to the inside of the int wall, should be about 4-9/16, or usually 6-9/16 on a 2x6 wall. Whatever the difference is you'll have to trim to on a wooden door.

[muggs]

so far, you have lots of good advice. most exterior doors are 36" for the door. with jamb, it's 37 1/2" wide x 82" high. 82 1/4 x 38" should be your rough opening size. here's the plan: take the old door out, and clean the opening well. plum the hinge side. it should be perfect. if not, shim the hinge side to plumb. the door you get at home depot should have a wood trim on one side, 1 1/4" thick called brick mold.

now, set the door in the rough opening and make sure it sits level and plumb. make sure all the closing screws are removed and the door opens freely. if it's good and working properly remove the door. silicone around the brick mold on the backside, where the brick mold will meet the house, and put 2 half inch thick lines of silicone on the floor where the threshold of the new door will sit. from one end to the other and up the sides 1". gently lift the new door over the silicone, set the door in place, and reaffirm plumb and level. now, SCREW one 3 1/2 inch screw to the brickmold on the hinge side to the cripple and stud, either on the top or bottom. re-plumb. if all is good, screw 3 more screws to the hinge side and 3 or 4 to the stricker plate side. (door knob side). it should take you 10 minutes max once the old door is out and the hole is clean. that's how bad your carpenter wanted to rip you off. let the silicone set for a few hours before you use it.

Steve, you recommend screwing the jam to the stud?

I was planning on using 3 1/2" 16d finish nails.

Thanks again everyone.

[okiedog]

Steve, you recommend screwing the jam to the stud?

I was planning on using 3 1/2" 16d finish nails.

Thanks again everyone.

I know this question wasn't directed towards me, but I always have screwed the frames. On the hinge side I always remove one hinge screw and replace it with a 3 1/2" screw as well.

[redkneck]

I know this question wasn't directed towards me, but I always have screwed the frames. On the hinge side I always remove one hinge screw and replace it with a 3 1/2" screw as well.

Me too. It's also the thing you almost will always do on service calls when dealing with door issues, esp dealing with large patio doors with double panes of tempered glass because of the weight. Nails are ok for the exterior brickmold or on the sides with nailfin, but you need some long coarse thread bugle heads like Steve said to lock your door hard against the shim/stud to prevent sagging in the future and to really lock your door frame tight so it remains square for years to come.

[muggs]

That's a good tip. Thanks guys.

[wtnhunt]

I know this question wasn't directed towards me, but I always have screwed the frames. On the hinge side I always remove one hinge screw and replace it with a 3 1/2" screw as well.

Yep, same here. Have not hung too many doors but always used screws in door frames and have also used a 3 1/2 inch screw in each hinge.