TBow Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 If you ask the question, "What broadheads do you use?", or "What broadhead is best?", you'll get as many answers as there are broadhead types on the market. And just how many posts have you seen that ask those very questions.....over and over and over again! But here's a question about broadheads I've yet to see: Q: "What criteria do you use or apply when selecting a broadhead?" I was on another hunting site the other day and a person was asking about a particular broadhead, citing the brand and model. They indicated they'd not seen too many on the market and knew of few people who'd used them to get some reviews on them. I knew the brand, and it had been around for many years so I knew they were established, but I had to agree with the author, that I knew of few people who used that particular name. The name was...established (old?), the logo had been around for a good long time without few flashy upgrades, but I'm sure the actual broadhead had progressed in keeping up with the latest technologies. So why was is not popular? Was marketing, or rather the lack of, the only thing keeping it down? That got me to asking myself as to why people choose one brand or model over another. Is it because a certain brand or model has some flashy name, uses high contrast colors, puts it in a really neat package and gets a well known hunting celebrity to push it, or has an attractive female hunter smile and say it's #1? Or is it because you've laid out a particular set of specs or some level of criteria that a product must first achieve before you'll consider it for acquisition and your use ? I use a particular brand of broadhead and model that has been on the market for years and is still out there. I have a lot of ferrils, a good many used blades to practice with and 3 or more packages of new and razor sharp blades to pop into the ferrils to use on my hunting arrows. Before I selected this particular brand years ago, I first laid out that they had to be: 1. a fixed head (I didn't want an expandable) 2. 3 bladed (considered to be the most aerodynamic of the fixed heads) 3. replaceable stainless steel blades in the .027" or thicker catagory and MUST be razor sharp out of the package 4. vented blades 5. 125 grain 6. 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" cutting width 7. an established brand and model with a good track record After establishing what I was looking for, I researched the market, came up with a few brands and models that met all those requirements, then selected the one I figured met my hunting and shooting style. As broadheads can be very expensive, I deduced that buying the same brand and model year after year had some very practical and economic value for me personally. And as established as it has been for years, there still aren't a lot of heads on the market that have made improvements of such that will make me scrap hundred$ of dollar$ worth of equipment just to have something else with a flashy name or color. A package of space aged broadheads, packaged in lots of 3 heads can go for as much as $50 a pkg. I usually carry a minimum of a dozen ferrils with 3 or more new packages of new blades, so you can see where retooling your gear to a new product every year can get pretty pricey for the average guy, just so they can say that they've got the latest and flashiest, but not nessecarily the best. So how did you choose your broadheads? Someone else you trusted recommend them? You liked the marketing strategy? It looked nice? Sounded space aged? A hunting celeb put their stamp of approval on it (that I'm sure they were paid for)? Was cheap enough to suit your pocket book? Met your selection criteria? TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diamond Archer 01 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 I selected the broadhead I used this year for a few reasons. The broadhead I used this year was the magnus stinger. I wanted a two blade because I heard they are the better for penetration. I have heard good things from people on hear and other people. They flew just like my field tips so that is also a reason why I chose that broadhead this year. I also wanted a 100 grain broadhead and the magnus stinger come in that weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeaveragehunter Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 My criteria: Are they sharp? Do they fly consistent? Do I feel confident when I walk out of the hunting shack knowing I have them in my quiver? Seeing as how arrow placement is infinitely more important than any specs on any broadhead, practice is the most important thing that i am concerned with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camoman1 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 I am shooting the same brand/style heads since I became serious about bowhunting. That was around 1999 ( I was 18). Its an expandable head. A good friend of the family sold me a bow he was looking to sell. He knew infinitely more about archery equipment than I did at the time. So he helped me get it set up and so on.....When it came to broadheads, I asked what he recommended. So I started with them, and have never had a reason to switch yet. Oddly enough he has switched heads multiple times in the last few years.....and has lost a few dandy bucks as well. I know one was with a popular four letter word that rhymes with 'cage' and another with a different mechanical. I know shot placement is way more important than what head you use....but its just odd that it happened that way. Pesonally, I wont switch heads until mine give me a reason to. I dont care whos face is on the package or how cool of a name they have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhino Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 My criteria now: 1. Consistent tight grouping, preferably shooting as close as possible to my field points. 2. Maximum penetration performance. That narrows them down to cut on contact, fixed blade heads 3. 3 blade (not just for aerodynamics but they cut a hole) 4. Built tough to hold together breaking through bone. Sharpness wasn't really a main concern for me. I'm old school from shooting both traditional and compound bows. I don't have a problem with getting my blades razor sharp myself. In the old days you expected to need to sharpen them out of the package. You really don't have to worry about that anymore though but I will still touch them up if they need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWSmith Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Q: "What criteria do you use or apply when selecting a broadhead?" 1. Are they all in the package? 2. Do I have enough money to buy them? 3. Do I need to buy them? 4. Will they match the 30-40 I already have? 5. How many do I need? 6. How many can I use at one time? 7. Are they easy to pull out of the dirt? 8. Will there be anything left of them after I pull them from the dirt? 9. How many lines in the dirt will they cut? 10. Will the Trocar tip break if it hits a rock? 11. Will all of the dirt come out of the blades if I slap the arrow against a tree? 12. Does the name rhyme with "Fuzzy" or "Wuzzy"? 13. Is it as overpriced as the latest and supposedly greatest that just came out on the market? 14. Is it as tough as the rest of my MUZZY'S:boxing: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hutchies Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 My choice is the Magnus Stinger Buzzcut 100 grain. After buying a pack and testing them I found that they shot better than any fixed blade I had shot before, they are also extremely tough, and have a lifetime warranty........................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hungry hunter Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 Since I started hunting with a home made bow and opsidian tips (grandfather was old school Native Americian) and graduated to modern in 1980, I did not know squat about broad heads. I have tried many and when I shot my first hog and only got 3 inchs of penatration, I woke up. Then I found Muzzy's. If it ain't broke, it don't need fixin. I never got into the hype of mechanicals and all heads will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earnhardts12000 Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 my choice is nap crossfires durible accurate bought bunch at time of ebay shoot right where my fieldpoints hit very very sharp just tell ya duribility of them 2 yrs ago snuck around edge cornfield there i 3 bucks standing in between rows 1 i like doesn't have clue i'm there drop the pin right behind shoulder send ur all sudden catchs piece cornstalk zing gos arrow crack deer drops in his tracks thought wt arrow actually hit him right in back head between ears smashed his skull so bad arrow was stuck in skull so far duribility i love them yes was a 1/million shot didn't expect but hey no trackin him dead in his tracks was my first buck with bow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maytom Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 First of all, let me say this. I never had a fixed bladed head fly worth a darn group wise!! So for me, that style of head was a looser in my book!!! I have been a mechanical broadhead guy ever since trying those Rocket Hammerheads years ago. The accuracy factor was there right from the start, compared to the fixed head variety. I've since switched to the "Rage" brand, because of their superior design. Accuracy is the number one criterion that should be everyones concern. The plus factor is how it performs once it hits its mark!!! Rage is the real deal!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWSmith Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 First of all, let me say this. I never had a fixed bladed head fly worth a darn group wise!! So for me, that style of head was a looser in my book!!! This should make sense to you then because your arrow shaft or insert...or both were not square to the long axis of the arrow shaft: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeBtY4nz8sE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBow Posted January 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 First of all, let me say this. I never had a fixed bladed head fly worth a darn group wise!! So for me, that style of head was a looser in my book!!! When mechanicals exploded onto the market, I looked at them, but after observing friends who'd used them, and got reduced penetration experiences, I opted away from them. I think you're absolutely correct, and few will likely argue with you, that in general, mechanicals will fly more accurately and consistantly. But I think the concensus of reduced penetration for mechanicals over fixed is likely also wide spread. When I was looking at what criteria to set for broadhead selection, one issue I did consider was penetration, but at the time it was only in relationship to the tip design, such as "chisel point" as opposed to "wedge point". I have been able to work with my broadhead/arrow selection and bow tuning to get acceptable accuracy with my fixed heads. The penetration however, was a variable that I had no control over except for head selection. That's why I originally chose not to use mechanicals, but I will admit, they have come a long ways since they were first put on the market. TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maytom Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 This should make sense to you then because your arrow shaft or insert...or both were not square to the long axis of the arrow shaft: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeBtY4nz8sE I can see the idea behind that tool. BUT!!! Even if your actual arrow shaft is ever so slightly off a perfect verticle cut, when you install the insert, it will still be centered inside that shaft!!! Only difference will be that the insert collar won't be flush with that arrow shaft, however so slightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWSmith Posted January 31, 2010 Report Share Posted January 31, 2010 BUT!!! Even if your actual arrow shaft is ever so slightly off a perfect verticle cut, when you install the insert, it will still be centered inside that shaft!!! Only difference will be that the insert collar won't be flush with that arrow shaft, however so slightly. People think that but their wrong. When your seating the insert and the first part touches the point of the unevenly cut arrow shaft the insert shifts slightly towards that side. However slightly it may be it's enough to change the insert off from being perfectly centered with the shaft. Think about it...since theres room for you to put the insert inside the shaft...theres room for it to move. Granted it may not be much room at all but it does not take much to be moved from being directly in the center. When that happens, no matter how perfectly constructed the broadhead is, it's not aligned with the shaft causing it to influence the flight characteristics decreasing consistent accuracy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buckandbull Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 I have been shooting the same broadhead for quite a few years now. When I decided to switch I was fighting accuracy for quite a few years with fixed blades so a mechanical heads was my first criteria. After that here was my criteria. - Chisel style head for durability and reusability - Availbility of replacement blades - I didn't want to deal with O-rings(this definitely narrowed the field at that time) - Recommendations from friends - Price - established company - Accuracy of course, but you really don't know that until you try them I ended up going with NAP spitfires. They work well for me and at this point I have lots of parts and usually only have to buy a pack or two of replacement blades each year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhine16 Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Penetration and Durability. Thus, lead me to 125 gr G5 Montecs. If I shot any other broadhead it would be Nap Hellrazors, G5 Strikers, Muzzy's.. in that order. I shot spitfires for years, but decided to get away from mechanicals a few years ago. I feel confident that if I pull a shot into the front shoulder with a heavy fixed head, I will get my deer. Not so with mechanicals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhine16 Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 Penetration and Durability. Thus, lead me to 125 gr G5 Montecs. If I shot any other broadhead it would be Nap Hellrazors, G5 Strikers, Muzzy's.. in that order. I shot spitfires for years, but decided to get away from mechanicals a few years ago. I feel confident that if I pull a shot into the front shoulder with a heavy fixed head, I will get my deer. Not so with mechanicals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maytom Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 People think that but their wrong. When your seating the insert and the first part touches the point of the unevenly cut arrow shaft the insert shifts slightly towards that side. However slightly it may be it's enough to change the insert off from being perfectly centered with the shaft. Think about it...since theres room for you to put the insert inside the shaft...theres room for it to move. Granted it may not be much room at all but it does not take much to be moved from being directly in the center. When that happens, no matter how perfectly constructed the broadhead is, it's not aligned with the shaft causing it to influence the flight characteristics decreasing consistent accuracy. Gotcha.....good point. So how much was that tool anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GWSmith Posted February 1, 2010 Report Share Posted February 1, 2010 I think the last one I bought was off Ebay...maybe $32 It was well worth it though and I've used it on just about everyones arrows I shoot with...they've instantly seen better results with less "Flyaway" arrows when shooting broadheads. On most of theirs all I got the chance to do was reface the insert! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 1. Are they all in the package? 2. Do I have enough money to buy them? 3. Do I need to buy them? 4. Will they match the 30-40 I already have? 5. How many do I need? 6. How many can I use at one time? 7. Are they easy to pull out of the dirt? 8. Will there be anything left of them after I pull them from the dirt? 9. How many lines in the dirt will they cut? 10. Will the Trocar tip break if it hits a rock? 11. Will all of the dirt come out of the blades if I slap the arrow against a tree? 12. Does the name rhyme with "Fuzzy" or "Wuzzy"? 13. Is it as overpriced as the latest and supposedly greatest that just came out on the market? 14. Is it as tough as the rest of my MUZZY'S:boxing: lol. Hard to change something that seems to work well for you. Have had no interest in trying any of the high dollar mechanical heads, muzzies fly just fine for me with my setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woolybear Posted February 2, 2010 Report Share Posted February 2, 2010 Couple requirements here. First off I want a COC head with .03 blade thickness. Also must fly like a field tip not necesarilly hit where my field tips are hitting. Broadhead practice is a whole new practice season to me that starts a month before season. Low profile and compact with minimal blade surface area to prevent planing. Vented blades or not large cut diameter fixed bladed heads do quite a bit of steering at longer ranges and shorter vanes will have a harder time compensating this on closer range shots as well. 1"- 1 1/4" cut diameter is plenty for me in that aspect. Blade angle is one of my final conciderations outside the obviouse. Steep cutting edges are more likely to cartwheel on impact robbing the shaft of valuable energy or worse yet deflect off bone after innitial impact sending a perfectly placed broadhead into no mans land once inside an animal. I wouldn't want to chance a head like that on anything more than a slightly quartering shot. Two experiences this past season with 100 Muzzies failing at the threaded parts at both ends of the head will have me shopping BH's this off season. Pretty sure I'll be going back to the ABC's that have performed flawlessly for me in the past. Just some of my thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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