bluing ??


muzzy1

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i have never done it but my dad had to have a little chunk on his 25-06 reblued. He brought his rifle to the saddle maker to have a scabbard made for it. Some how in the process of forming the leather to the gun, some kind of solvent or other harsh something or other got on the bluing on the rifle and stripped the blueing off about a 2-3" chunk on the muzzle of his rifle. My dad didnt feel comfortable doing it himself and took it to a gunsmith to get touched up. needless to say, the gunsmith did a horrible job and the "reblued" chunk does not even come close to matching the rest of the bluing on the rifle. Make sure you ask around alot and maybe talk to some gunsmiths to see if they can give you tips too. Ill have to ask my dad about who payed for the screw up. If he did ill have to kick him in the butt! lol

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any one ever re blue their guns?Do you have to do the whole gun ,or can you just touch up rust spots?Also i have an old sheridan pellet gun i want to re do,but i belive there is copper under the bluing how does that work? Any help tips would be awsome THANKS!!!!

For spots Brownell's oxpho blue works great. Just follow the directions on the label.

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For spots Brownell's oxpho blue works great. Just follow the directions on the label.

Wtnhunt is right The brownells oxpho blue is probably the best cold bluing product on the market.

There are several things to consider, cold bluing does an excellent job of touching up and matching spots so you don't have to reblue the whole gun. However cold bluing is not as durable and you will probably have to touch it up every three to four years.

Hot bluing however requires that you do the whole portion of the gun to be done. That can be just the receiver, just the barrel or the whole gun. The disadvatage to hot blueing is that is is more expensive and you can't just touch up small areas. The advantage is once you do it with proper care it will never have to be done again.

:gun2:

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