texastrophies Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 I can't keep my pilot light lit. I push the main button down and then hit the lighter button and as long as I hold the main button down the pilot light will stay lit, but as soon as I let it up to turn it to on, the pilot light goes out. Any thoughts or suggestions? While we are at it, I had to switch out the wall socket for my dryer. The one in the wall had 4 wires and my dryer only has three. My question for this one is, in the wall there is a black, white & red wire and a copper one. I know where the black, white & red go, but what should I do with the copper wire? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleA Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Sounds as if you have a bad thermocouple in your water heater. Think of it as a safety that prevents gas from escaping when the pilot light isnt working, it's a heat activated device. They are not hard to change. The bare copper wire is a ground and can be connected to a green ground screw if so equipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBow Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 I'm guessing your thermocouple on your pilot light in the water heater is gone. You can buy a replacement at a plumbing/heating supplier for about $10. It fits from your gas solenoid (where you turn the pilot and gas on) to the pilot light burner. When it's working, it's supposed to let the solenoid know that the pilot light is working and that it can keep the solenoid open to allow gas to flow. If the pilot light goes out, the solenoid closes so no unburnt gas leaks into your house. The thermocouple would be my first try as it's relatively inexpensive and if your mechanically inclined at all, you can change it yourself without fiddling with any gas lines. If the thermocouple doesn't work, then it's likely your solenoid which can run $100 to $200. You'll need a gas ticket to change that, or at least most states or provinces require one. Your dryer uses the three insulated condcutors (red and black are hot - L1 and L2 and the white is your neutral). The bare copper typically goes to your ground screw on the back of the box, but some outlets also have a green screw where you can attach the bare copper conductor to. It will be labelled "GND". If there's no "GND" screw on the outlet, then just use the ground screw on the back of the outlet box. If it's a plastic box, then there will be a green ground screw to attach to. TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texastrophies Posted May 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Sounds as if you have a bad thermocouple in your water heater. Think of it as a safety that prevents gas from escaping when the pilot light isnt working, it's a heat activated device. They are not hard to change. The bare copper wire is a ground and can be connected to a green ground screw if so equipped if not, the neutral/white. OK, got the dryer going. Thank You. That was what I thought, but was not sure. You got any thought on where this thermocouple might be located? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBow Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 It looks like a long thin copper tube about 1/8" or 3/16" dia. and comes in varying lengths of 12" to 36" depending on how far your solenoid is from your pilot light. The one end screw into your solenoid and the other end protrudes into the pilot light flame. TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleA Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 The thermocouple will be (in most cases) a small (1/8") copper tube with one end screwed into the gas valve and the other end having a sensor. The sensor end will be located at the pilot light. Here's an example.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texastrophies Posted May 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 OK, is the tube always copper? I have both a copper tube and a steel tube in the bottom of the valve. Are they a generic item or brand specific? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 The thermocouple is only about 1/16", the 1/4" steel one is probably the gas feed to the pilot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhunt Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Are they a generic item or brand specific? Should be able to find a generic/universal replacement Jeff. The thermocouple used for your water heater is likely the same as that used with other brands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texastrophies Posted May 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Replaced the thermocoupler and it still does not work. Any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 The thermocouple normally is the problem with gas systems that won't light/stay lit. If you have a good strong flame in close contact on the end of the thermocouple probe, and it still wont stay lit, then it's quite possible you have a bad valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Here's one at Lowe's: http://www.lowes.com/pd_295098-135-6910798_4294856714_44?productId=3133735&pl=1¤tURL=/pl_Water%2BHeater%2BAccessories_4294856714_44_ Just be sure you're getting good flame contact before you buy one. Every once in a while the burner will get knocked around and you wont get good heating on the probe. If you go that route, I would take the old one off first and take it with you just to be sure, though most are generic to my knowlege. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBow Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 I had to replace my solenoid/valve on my gas furnace after failure of the thermocouple as well. If you're not absolutely sure of yourself on gas lines, then it would be wise to get a licenced technician to do the work. You might possibly require a licenced tech anyways by law to work on a gas line. One requirement for a licenced tech is that any small leak whatsoever could result in an explosion, so better safe than sorry. If you are allowed to DIY, then be sure to use pipe dope on the joints and test for leaks once you're done and before you try to light things up. It's quite possoble also that the supplier that sells parts, may not be allowed to sell a non-certified person any parts that are part of a gas line system. TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBow Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 The bare copper wire is a ground and can be connected to a green ground screw if so equipped if not, the neutral/white. Just a quick note, DO NOT connect the bare copper wire to the neutral/white at the receptacle. It must be connected to a grounding screw either on the box or a gnd terminal on the receptacle. The bare copper wire is already connected to the neutral/white at the main panel and should not be connected at any other locations to the neutral/white. It has the potential to make the bare copper a current carrying conductor, which is a no no. TBow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleA Posted May 31, 2010 Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Quote: "The bare copper wire is a ground and can be connected to a green ground screw if so equipped if not, the neutral/white." Just a quick note, DO NOT connect the bare copper wire to the neutral/white at the receptacle. It must be connected to a grounding screw either on the box or a gnd terminal on the receptacle. The bare copper wire is already connected to the neutral/white at the main panel and should not be connected at any other locations to the neutral/white. It has the potential to make the bare copper a current carrying conductor, which is a no no. TBow This is absolutely true, I dont know what I was thinking. I made an edit to my post. TBOw, thanks for the correction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texastrophies Posted May 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2010 Oops, looks like I better go fix that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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