Kill Them All........


Tominator

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In all seriousness, they do become a lot more like a nuiscance when you've invested a lot of time and money and they just come and lay wast to it. I've shot a few out of the pea patch in the summer a lot of years ago, but if I didn't my father in law was about to shoot indescriminately in their general direction with some buckshot (he couldnt see for crap). It didn't solve the problem, but slowed them down a little. They can sure work on peas and corn.

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Got an electric fence today from TSC. :yes: :boxing:

Wonder how many years ago someone suggested that to ya.:rolleyes::D:D:D

About time.;)

Be sure to run at least two strands, one as high as possible and one about knee height. If you want to keep the coons and rabbits out run another strand just above the ground at about 5 inches or so.

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Wonder how many years ago someone suggested that to ya.:rolleyes::D:D:D

About time.;)

Yeah, yeah. You like spending my money as much as contractors. :D

Back on the old property I had occasional deer damage, not bad though. The coons did most of the damage, but not really enough to justify the expense of an electric fence. Last year and just the other day was the final straw. My last corn plot last year was decimated by coons. I literally got 3 ears of corn out of the entire plot! :mad: Then the other day when the deer went through my first plot really aggravated me.

Be sure to run at least two strands, one as high as possible and one about knee height. If you want to keep the coons and rabbits out run another strand just above the ground at about 5 inches or so.

Yep, planning on running 3 strands. One about 3" off the ground, then knee height then like you say, at the top. I went with a solar model for a few reasons, mostly convenience. Nearest outdoor outlet I have is close to 50 yards from the garden. Anyway, I went with a Zareba SP 3.

41i8OCwTaNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Takes 3 full days to charge the thing so I'm hoping to set it up maybe tomorrow or the next day. We got close to .75" of rain this morning and it's pretty muddy back there again.

I'll probably be tapping your knowledge of these set ups in the near future bud. I'm clueless as to how to set these up other than what I remember from the dude at the TSC store telling me.

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Yeah, yeah. You like spending my money as much as contractors. :D.

Nah, not really bud. Just trying to help you protect your hard work and investment in your garden.;)

Yep, planning on running 3 strands. One about 3" off the ground, then knee height then like you say, at the top. I went with a solar model for a few reasons, mostly convenience. Nearest outdoor outlet I have is close to 50 yards from the garden. Anyway, I went with a Zareba SP 3.

41i8OCwTaNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Takes 3 full days to charge the thing so I'm hoping to set it up maybe tomorrow or the next day. We got close to .75" of rain this morning and it's pretty muddy back there again.

I'll probably be tapping your knowledge of these set ups in the near future bud. I'm clueless as to how to set these up other than what I remember from the dude at the TSC store telling me.

I used direct burial wire to go from my charger to the point of attachment, used to be about 45 yards from the garage to the T post where it took off. Moved the charger to the shed when I ran power out there and it is only about 40 feet now.

Never used a solar model charger, but looks simple, should be a wire for your hot and a ground to go to a ground rod. Strands can run continuous, in other words one lead from the charger you can make one big S for your three strands.

Solar advantages are you won't lose power on it when your power is out and of course no cord to power it. You will want to keep the edges under that low strand free of weeds even if it is a weed clipper model, roundup edging.;)

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Never used a solar model charger, but looks simple, should be a wire for your hot and a ground to go to a ground rod. Strands can run continuous, in other words one lead from the charger you can make one big S for your three strands.

Intersting. Guy at the store suggested using jumper lines, so I got the attachments for that, but seems to me, the "S" configuration might be easier.

Solar advantages are you won't lose power on it when your power is out and of course no cord to power it.

We have a generator, so we never lose power, but that's a moot point with the solar control unit, eh? :D

You will want to keep the edges under that low strand free of weeds even if it is a weed clipper model, roundup edging.;)

Yep, I've heard that numerous times. I actually have a 4' strip all around the garden that I till whenever the weeds start up. That and roundup should do the trick, eh?

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You definitely want to ground that fence well and keep the weeds off. Drive your ground rod as deep as you can, probably atleast 4 foot. We had an electric fence box seperate for our garden, with a wire about 5 inches off the ground for the coons. It was a small box, only like a 4000 volt set up, and when it was dry for a while or just a couple weeds got on it, the pulse became weak enough that the coons just slipped under. Then we just started hooking up to the box we use for the cattle fence, which is good for 8000 volts for like 10 miles of fence and has a nice ground rod in the barn. They dont get any corn any more. Ive seen it arc 3 inches to the bull's nose. :D

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My problem is coons. I try to live trap them but there is always one or two that get by and wreck my corn. How much does that solar fence charger cost?

I got mine at TSC for $119. The whole setup (wire, 8' ground rod, insulators, jumper connections, etc.) was less than $200. I did not have to buy the T-posts though, I already had those.

You definitely want to ground that fence well and keep the weeds off. Drive your ground rod as deep as you can, probably atleast 4 foot. :D

I got an 8' rod, so that will be fun to drive into the ground. :D

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I got an 8' rod, so that will be fun to drive into the ground. :D

Thought your ground was muddy? T post driver will drive the ground rod, just be sure to have your clamp on and slid down out of the way.

You can get 7 ft t posts too, they will be 6+ feet above the ground when you drive them. Deer will find the wire though and they will stay out even if the top strand is only 5 feet.

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Thought your ground was muddy? T post driver will drive the ground rod, just be sure to have your clamp on and slid down out of the way.

You can get 7 ft t posts too, they will be 6+ feet above the ground when you drive them. Deer will find the wire though and they will stay out even if the top strand is only 5 feet.

Ground rod is in. It's easily 7 ft. in the ground, wasn't too tough, ground is extremely wet.

Don't know how I'll ever get it back out though. :D

Got my posts set pretty much where I want them, but I need 5 more posts, and I forgot to get the top cap insulators for the posts so I can run my top wire. Hope to get it all up and running tomorrow.

Good news is I didn't lose any corn to critters last night. :eat:

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Ground rod is in. It's easily 7 ft. in the ground, wasn't too tough, ground is extremely wet.

Thought you might bait Tom over there for that with some Killians. :confused:

Don't know how I'll ever get it back out though. :D

Never mind...Saving Tom for later. :yes::angel1:

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Ground rod is in. It's easily 7 ft. in the ground, wasn't too tough, ground is extremely wet.

Don't know how I'll ever get it back out though. :D

Lift arms on the 3 point hitch of a tractor and a chain would pull it out if you ever needed to move it.

That oughta do the job though. Damp ground will help get a better ground too. I bet your critter problem will be solved now.

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