!!!Recurve Help Needed Quick!!!

[Jeramie]

I drew out the army ammo plant in Oklahoma this year (McAlester). They have a strict stick and string rule. The bow has to be plain with no attachments.

Im now shopping hard for a used recurve so I can be ready by the end of October. I grew up shooting aluminum arrows out of an old fred bear, into the side of a round bale. However, I havent been a big recurve shooter in probably 18 years.

I have found two good deals on a bow ($100 each). Here are the specs. Also, should I just pick up some lighter aluminum or stick with my carbons? I have a half dozen Easton Epic, 400's I think. They are heavy. Would that work or would they be too short with my 28" draw on my compound?

Bow 1

1972 Fred Bear, Black Bear. 45# Green in color.

or Bow 2

Martin, X-200, 55# Varnished (Wood color)

[Orion_70]

Out of those two, I would go with the Martin. I have a Martin Hunter I shoot aluminums out of mine with no problems

[Rhino]

Given the 2 options, I'd go with the Martin too.

Arrows, especially their length is going to depend on how they tune with the bow you choose. I shoot Easton carbon 400's with my recurve. After turning my arrows (bare shaft) to find the right length for my 54# recurve @ 28 1/2" draw, my arrows shot true shooting 29 1/4" arrows using the carbon 400's. I'm also heavy on the business end shooting 225 gr. field points & Wensel Woodsman broadheads. My recurve is a custom bow made by Bob Morrison in Ohio.

One of my best friends recently had Bob build him a recurve too. His is 63# at 28 1/2". His bow likes 29 1/2" carbon 400 arrows and shoots best using 145 gr. at the business end.

[Rhino]

By the way...anything you need for trad bowhunting you can find here.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/

You probably need to consider getting a shooting or how to book. I have Byron Ferguson's book "Become the Arrow" (under 3 Rivers shooting books). Chapter 4 of that book will tell you everything you need to know about tuning a barebow.

[Jeramie]

The tuning is about my biggest trouble. I can hit pretty darn good with a stick and string but again, I grew up shooting dads old recurve and arrows. Ive never bought one for myself. This will be a first!

[rhine16]

You probably need to consider getting a shooting or how to book. I have Byron Ferguson's book "Become the Arrow" (under 3 Rivers shooting books). Chapter 4 of that book will tell you everything you need to know about tuning a barebow.

Agree with Al... He gave me the same advice, and it helped a lot.

As for the bow, I'd go with the Martin.

Just curious, but could an out of stater get drawn for that hunt?

[JimPic]

Both are nice bows but I'd go with the Martin if you can handle the weight comfortably. The 400's could work depending on the length and head weight. You might have to use a heavier point...145gr or more...to get them to tune. Feathers are a must unless you plan on using an elevated rest. The plastic stick-on rests work fine if you decide to go that route. If you decide to use aluminums,a 2016 or 2018 with a 125gr head will tune nicely.

You'll probably draw a little less than your compound,also...maybe an inch or so.

[Jeramie]

Agree with Al... He gave me the same advice, and it helped a lot.

As for the bow, I'd go with the Martin.

Just curious, but could an out of stater get drawn for that hunt?

Yes, Oklahoma allows out of state hunters. They have a deer camp at McAlester and ive heard people have been there from as far away as New York. You have to have a valid Oklahoma Hunting Liscense and pay a $5 fee to enter. However, for that entry fee you can sign up for Turkey, Deer, Elk, Quail, and Antelope.

[TBow]

I'll second the using feathers instead of vanes on your arrows comment.

The Martin sounds like a better hunter, but the Bear will likely maintain some level of collectability if that's your thing beyond the hunting seasons. Older Bears also have a characteristic of displaying numerous stress lines on the limbs as well as the riser. Also be aware if you draw longer than the 28" with a recurve, then the actual holding weight at full draw will be heavier than the marked poundage. ie: If you pull a 30" arrow, then the Martin will be crowding 60 lbs while the Bear will be nye on 50 lbs.

And with the recurve, I'm assuming you'll be shooting fingers. If you're a release compounder, then that'll be a real culture shock and take some getting used to. You'll need to decide whether to use a glove, tab or string rubbers with bare fingers. If you can adjust to holding the string near the outer tips of your fingers as opposed to at the joints, then you'll get better releases. And try and get used to relaxing your fingers at the release allowing the string to slip away from your finger tips as opposed to trying to "let go" of the string. The latter will cause side movement of the string and lend itself to "fish-tailing" and left to right misses.

I'm sure you'll get a real kick out of getting back to the basics of why we all originally chose the bowhunting adventure.

Best of luck.

TBow

[TBow]

Forgot to mention a couple things to check on used recurves:

1. It was common on older recurves to have holes drilled into them to accept side mount quivers or sights and also threaded bushings into the face to accept accessories. I'd try to stay away from bows with such mods.

2. Inspect the limbs for twists. Hold the bow up in front of you and look down the face of the limbs to detect any twists. I'd reject any bows with limb twists. Improper storage of the bow or storage near heat sources or high humidity lent itself to limb twists. Improper stringing techniques also caused twists. (Buy yourself a recurve stringer)

3. Inspect the wood/glass laminations on the side of the limbs for any cracks or signs of delaminations.

TBow

[Jeramie]

One deal fell through... Martin is gone. Im looking at bows today. If this doesnt pan out I may just buy a new one. Didnt want to spend that kind of money but at least I know what Ill be getting...

Ill keep everyone posted. I need to be punching the bag soon to get up to speed!