2005 Chevy Classic Brake Issues

[Jeramie]

Back in 06 I bought a 2005 Chevy Classic to commute in (basically a Malibu). The engine itself hasnt given me much trouble other that HORRIBLE gas mileage for a 4cy (about 24 - 25mpg) and the fact that the timing chain tensioner went out at 40k mi. I soon realized there was a list of other troubles that lead me to believe it was a flood car. The horn would honk on its own. Lights would start flashing when the car was sitting and the keys were no where around, etc. Come to find out the Classic and Malibu are both serious trouble cars. Both have a host of issues reported along the same lines.

One serious problem in particular is the brake system. They eat roters and brake pads. I have changed the roters, calipers, and pads. Still doesnt solve the issue. As of right now the roters are really starting to look rough and they arent that old. The calipers seem to work but lock the breaks instead of ABS if you hammer the brakes. And I cant seem to keep a set of pads on the car!

I drive about 120 miles a day (roughly) so I do expect some wear but man this thing eats the brake pads. Ive tried different brands, materials, etc. I finally went with a lifetime pad so it at least wouldnt cost me more money. Im getting horrible breaking wear. The piston side of the caliper wears 50% faster than the opposite side.

Ive grown up changing my own oil, brakes, etc. I have also changed them on my truck, our van, etc with no issues at all. For some reason this car just simply wont keep pads on and roters in good condition?! I really need to make it one more year and im picking up a Toyota Camry and getting rid of this hunk of junk. However, until then I would like to go more than about 6-8 weeks without changing brake pads!

[Shaun_300]

The front brakes on these cars are terrible. You're car is not the only one Jeramie. Unfortunately all older style Malibu's, Grand Am's and Alero's are like this. The pistons in the calipers on these vehicles are always a really tight fit, which is what I think the pads wear out so fast. Like you say the inside pad twice as quick as the other one. The most you can do is make sure the slides are free and lubed (pads not binding in the bracket.) And the pins are well lubed.

[Goinghuntin]

I've never even heard of a Chevy Classic

Nathan

[redkneck]

I've never even heard of a Chevy Classic

Nathan

All Chevy's are classics, his just happens to be a classic POS.

Jeramie, I've never had one that bad, but have had one that only eats on pad up at the time. I only changed that one pad (they were the same on both sides of the rotor) and at least saved some cash on the pads by only using 2 of the 4 each time.

[Shaun_300]

Can't do it on this car though, the inside pads and outside pads are different.

[LETMGROW]

I just saw this post and thought I'd add a couple thoughts.

First I would check the rear brakes to be sure they are working properly. Are the self adjusters free and working properly? Are the wheel cylinders working correctly? Once in a while one of the pistons in the cylinder will freeze up and only one shoe is moving. This will cut down on the rear wheel braking drasticly. Be sure the backing plates are rust free and the shoes are free to slide. Have the drums been resurfaced to the point where the shoes aren't making full contact with the drum?

In your case it sounds like the front brakes are doing most of the work which will lead to premature front pad wear. Be sure you are using at least OEM quality pads. There is some cheap junk out there. I prefer good quality ceramic pads on these cars.

Make sure the caliper brackets are rust free and the slides are kept clean and lubed. I recommend servicing these newer desigh calipers every 6 months regardless of mileage.

We have a fleet customer who has several Classics and we are averaging just over 30,000 miles on a set of front pads. I might add some of the drivers they have aren't gentle on brakes either.

Lynn