redkneck Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Bought a rear axle for my 2000 Z71 from a salvage yard. Got it pretty cheap because it was so rusty (brake backing plates are shot). The pinion did feel solid and no slack, got a 30 day warranty on the gears. How big a deal is it to pull the axles and replace the seals and bearings? I'll have to pull the axles to unbolt the flanges right? If all goes ok, I'll save myself 800-1000 on rebuilding mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92xj Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Bought a rear axle for my 2000 Z71 from a salvage yard. Got it pretty cheap because it was so rusty (brake backing plates are shot). The pinion did feel solid and no slack, got a 30 day warranty on the gears. How big a deal is it to pull the axles and replace the seals and bearings? I'll have to pull the axles to unbolt the flanges right? If all goes ok, I'll save myself 800-1000 on rebuilding mine. My name's not Shaun so I will just keep quiet. I lied...FYI...a pinion should have some slack. Zero slack is a bad thing. Thats all I will say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Let me re-prhase that then. I can take my pinion and move it up and down like there's no tomorrow. This one is a LOT better when doing the same test, which is all I can do with this junker when it's on the ground. I do know what you mean though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted September 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Another option (maybe) is to just pull my axles and replace the chunk from the salvaged rear end with my own. What is involved with that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92xj Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 Another option (maybe) is to just pull my axles and replace the chunk from the salvaged rear end with my own. What is involved with that? No, dont go that route. Just pull the shafts and replace the seals and backing plate with what you have. After disconnecting the brake line off the backing plate, you should but able to get the bolts off and out without having to take the brakes apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LETMGROW Posted September 30, 2010 Report Share Posted September 30, 2010 If you have a 2000 Silverado you have rear disc brakes. You will have to remove the calipers, brackets, rotors, and axles to access the seals on the axles. To remove the axles, remove the rear diff. cover. Remove the through pin on the pinion gear shaft. 8 mm. head bolt. Rotate the gears until they can be slid out of the diff. carrier. Push in on the axle and the " C " clips can be removed. The axles can be removed. Pop the seals and install new ones. The backing plates are a weak link on these vechiles. There are plates available in the aftermarket. [ plates only ] GM offers complete assemblies which include parking brake shoes and hardware fully assembled. You will have to decide which way to go. What you will need depends on the condition of what you have. I would replace the rear cover with a new one on reassembly. These covers rust out often, especially up here in salted road land. Good Luck. Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Thanks for the reply Lynn! I'd do the same. You're right about the backing plates. They rot off like crazy up here, the salt absolutely love them! I never heard about the fully assembled kits. We usually just replace the plates, the only other thing that breaks doing that job quite often is the 8mm screw holding the park brake shoe retainer clip. The GM plates are 1 piece so you need to pull the axles to replace them. Not sure if you've seen the 2 piece ones they make for these trucks now Lynn. They work pretty good, better than what I thought they'd be! Saves taking the axles out. We usually offer the customers both options. A lot just want OEM parts and do it the GM route. Others like the cheaper labour, (and parts) and go the 2 piece ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LETMGROW Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) Shaun, I'll shoot the GM part # to you. I'll have to get them tomorrow when I get to work. You just remove the 4 bolts from the housing and replace the whole shooting match. Best way to go IMO but a little pricier. It does cut down on labor costs. Aren't those little girly bolts a pain? Lynn Just noticed the U in labor! You are canadian, EH? Edited October 1, 2010 by LETMGROW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 LOL maybe EH! All you American's spell it wrong. Parts are crazy expensive, maybe that's why we've never used them. Only things we get are the bare plates from GM. Between the girly bolts breaking off and the girly clips breaking off when pulling the rotors off, it's just a girly park break set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LETMGROW Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Gotta love this job,EH? LOL Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I've been making parts for GMSPO for 15 years, I promise it's not the manufacturers that's getting all the $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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