redkneck Posted October 3, 2010 Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 Yeah, I got a manual, but always like to hear from the pros. Do I need to pull the axles before I can remove the e-brake ? I'll pick up my new (junkyard) rear axle on tuesday and hope to start reinstalling next week unless a bunch of water or metal chunks come flowing out when I crack the back case. How do you evaluate the axle bearings? I certainly plan on replacing the yoke seal, insp plate seal, and axle seals. I'll use the brake backing plates from my truck since they are 100% rust free and the axle I'm swapping has rotted plates. Thanks as always guys in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2010 Pulled the pass side axle out and now for the driver's side. Where's the locking screw? What do you guys think about just replacing the pinion bearing with a new one and putting this thing back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goinghuntin Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Boy you're getting a little further in than I'd like to John I might have missed something, but why didn't you just replace the whole rear axle? Couldn't be that hard. Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Well Nate, it's like this... my rear diff is trashed, so what have I got to lose by tinkering with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goinghuntin Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Good point John. Might learn something new too Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 OK, I see the other C-lock, I didn't have the driver's side axle pushed in far enough. Only thing holding it all in now is the U-bolts and shock mounts. Hope to get a chance to work on it more tomorrow. If I were just replacing my axle bearings I would have messed up I think, because after pulling the c-locks I spun the axle, which I understand is a no-no from reading my manual? Going to drop in the other one in the next few days and hopefully all is well. Would like to replace the axle bearings, seals, and yoke seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 You're well on your way John! Honestly don't bother with the axle bearings. They never go, go ahead with the axle seals. When you say yoke seal do you mean the one at the transfer case or the pinion seal? If it's the pinion seal I wouldn't bother if it looks dry. There's no extra work involved changing it later if it does leak. I haven't see many of the newer trucks leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 I'm talking about the input seal at the front of the rear diff. I just don't want to go through such a hassle and have pesky leaks. Differential leaks are killers esp when you park on dirt and don't notice them until it's too late. I sure don't get under mine and pull the plug to check the level like I should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Have you ever changed one before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Nope. I hear you need a new nut, and should mark the position of it to get the preload back right, and you can get by with it. What do you say? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 The easiest way to do it is use the old nut. Mark the pinion shaft with a chisel and mark the nut right above where you marked the pinion shaft so they are in line with eachother. Take the nut off, pull the yoke off with a puller. change the seal, put the yoke back on, until you feel it tighten up, mark your lines back together and go a touch further, so the line on the nut is about 1/8" past the mark on the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Will do. Going to let sleeping dogs lie at this point, I just want to make sure my replacement is going to hold up for me, not worried about the trivial stuff, just wanna make sure the gears are good. Thanks a lot Shaun, your advice means a lot in making my decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 No problem at all bud, that's why I'm here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 I should be ready to roll by Friday. Only reason I had to pull those axles was to reuse my backing plates. Now they are tied up with all the brake hardware and ready to re-bolt the flanges to the new axle, and won't have to even crack my brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goinghuntin Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Now they are tied up with all the brake hardware and ready to re-bolt the flanges to the new axle, and won't have to even crack my brake lines. :jaw: You're missing out on the funnest part! Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LETMGROW Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Good advice from Shaun on the pinion seal! If it isn't leaking LEAVE IT ALONE! The bearings are set with a preload upon which it has been run with. Between the front and rear pinion bearings there is a collapsible spacer. This is a ONE time usable item. Don't tighten the pinion enough and you will have play in and out of the housing which will destroy the bearing and pinion shaft and gear quickly. Overtighten and you will overload the bearing. The bearing will overheat, burn out and you will repeat the whole replacement process again. The pinion bearing is accessable if the Companion flange [yoke] and seal were to be removed. But the bearing race is installed from the backside. Without carrier removal the race can't be replaced. Differentials for the most part are tough. However they are the final gear set in power delivery to the rear wheels. They are not immune from mistreatment. Lynn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 There isn't really any point on changing it if it's not leaking. If you change it and screw something up (don't take much on diffs) You'll do more harm than good and will be looking to dig back into the diff to replace bearings and possibly gears. Use the rule "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. If it leaks further down the road, deal with it then. Take a glance under the truck once in a while to see if anything is wet. You can tell if it's leaking, it doesn't dry off. If you see it leaking, replace it then. If you insist on replacing it now, do it the way I said and it should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 (edited) I'm not touching it for now. Got the rear cover plate gasket and the wheel seals coming in today. Just going to swap the axle seals, clean up the axles best I can by buffing the seal area and lubing it. Drop it back in with my back plate since the other is so rusty. Filler up with some syn gear oil and take it for a spin. I think despite how freaking rusty this new one is, it's going to be pretty tight mechanically. I'll come out good as long as the dang axe tubes don't rust in half :clown:. Hopefully have it done by Friday. Not a lot of work really, but it's wide open for me from the time I get home with the kids, homework, supper, etc. Edited October 6, 2010 by redkneck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 6, 2010 Report Share Posted October 6, 2010 Right on John! If you have time, or care, just sand or sand blast all the rust off and give it a shot of paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Got the old one completely out of the truck this afternoon. Pulled the axles on the replacement, installed new axle seals and greased the bearings. Will try to put a wire wheel on it Fri and then I'll shoot some rustoleum to it for good measure before bolting it back up and putting it all back together. I noticed quite a bit of loc-tite on the caliper bracket bolts, backing plate bolts and even the rear cover bolts. Any suggestions? I saw blue and red. I can't really see putting it on the rear diff cover, but I figure I should add at least some blue (medium) on the cal bracket bolts. Whatcha think? If I'm not on the road Saturday, I've hit a snag! Going to add some blue rtv on the rear cover with the gasket just to be sure I don't have any leakage too. Mechanic work sux..... just in case anyone is wondering... but will surely save at least $600 on this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Don't use it on the diff cover bolts. A little on the caliper bracket bolts doesn't hurt. I don't normally don't since GM puts about 20lbs of it on each bolt, so whatever is left on the threads still holds really tight. Plus the torque specs on them is over 100 foot pounds, so they will NOT come loose no matter what you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Got it. Will put my torque wrench on them when I re-install to be on the safe side. I really didn't see a need in it myself. If I had more time and $ I'd throw on a new set of shocks and new U-joints, but will save that for another day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun_300 Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 148 foot pounds to be exact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92xj Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 greased the bearings. Explain your process here. Exactly which bearings did you grease and with what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redkneck Posted October 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 Explain your process here. Exactly which bearings did you grease and with what? Just slathered some axle grease on the axle bearings at the hub. I know it's sort of a waste of time, the stuff is going to sling out and mix with the gear oil, but I felt better anyway. Mainly packed the area between the bearing and seal to get the seals soft and pliable before installing the axles.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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