OK.... pulled the rotors now what?

[redkneck]

148 foot pounds to be exact.

I think I got a 200lb'er at work.

[Goinghuntin]

Mechanic work sux..... just in case anyone is wondering... but will surely save at least $600 on this job.

It sure does when you're working on your own vehicle!

I know it's sort of a waste of time, the stuff is going to sling out and mix with the gear oil, but I felt better anyway.

As long as you feel like it helped, it helped

Nathan

[LETMGROW]

Lube on the bearings is not going to hurt anything. A dry bearing will.

NOW is the time to replace a suspect U-joint. The vibration and chatter a bad U-joint can cause could lead to differential failure rather quickly. Check them and replace them if you have any doubt at all.

I know the manufacturer specifies synthetic gear lube. Frankly, I hate this stuff! For years we saw very little rear gear failure. Now it is becoming common place at 70-80,000 miles. The old stuff ran for 1-200,000 miles with no problems. The only exception being posi-trac lock up when the fluid became contaminated with moisture etc. This happens with syn. fluid also. I recommend posi. units have fluid changed at 50,000 miles regardless of how the vehicle is being used. [ or what fluid you are using ]

[redkneck]

Got her all bolted in, shackles on, brakes on, shocks installed. All I got now is to permatex the gasket, filler up, and connect the D/S. Hope she's going by dark, but I got to pick up the kids at school, and got a hankerin to go up a tree..... decisions, decisions!

[redkneck]

Pulled the front D/S and the boot split when I pryed it off. Advance auto tells me that they can't get it. What do you call that thing, a driveshaft coupling boot?

Also the front diff is dripping a little at the pinion seal. Man I hate to try to replace that thing. Should I?

[Shaun_300]

I say you take the brake clean to it to clean it all off, check your fluid level and drive it for a bit. Keep an eye on the leak to see how bad it is. If it's bad, I'd take it shop and let them do it if you're not comfortable doing it or don't have the right puller to pull the yoke off. It'd cost less taking it somewhere to have it done where they have the right tools than if you were to attempt it and screw up the preload and take the bearings out, which could cause a need of a complete overhaul. I'm in no way doubting your ability to do it, don't think I'm saying you don't know what you're doing. Because I'm not. It's basically the same procedure as the rear diff, just you have less room to work with.

As for the boot, the dealer will probably be able to get them, I'm sure they wouldn't be very much. Instead of using those stupid PITA clamps, use a cable tie on each end to secure it. It don't take much to hold it in place, and when the drive shaft is in it's not going anywhere.

[redkneck]

Thanks Shaun. I'm pretty sure I could change the seal, but no doubt I do not like screwing with the factory preloads on something set that precisely. I'll get a new boot from the dealer (we have the pneumatic oetiker crimpers at work if I can get the tool in there). I think the half-shaft seals on the front chunk need replacing too. Maybe I'll just try to replace all these U-joints and let that project ride till summer. I had to replace the pass front wheel bearing last year. I'll slowly get it all back in order, I don't want another truck note, and hope to keep this one going for a long time.

[Shaun_300]

Good idea John. A small leak from a pinion or axle seal will take a LONG time to drain down and cause damage. As long as you know it's there, check the level every oil change and it'll be fine until you're ready to do it.