Dang Truck!

[Tominator]

Within a matter of minutes the speakers and tailgate went on my truck.

Took my wife to dinner last night and stopped by Home Depot to pick up some potting mix for some trees I'm planting. Loaded the mix, got in the truck, radio is on, no sound.

Get home, go to unload the mix, and I couldn't get the tailgate down--it's hanging up on the right side.

For the radio, I'm thinking a blown fuse?

For the tailgate...well, I'm open to suggestions.

[wtnhunt]

On the radio I guess a blown fuse would be where I would probably also check first. Not sure if those stock radios had seperate fuses for onboard amps or not, but might explain the radio on and no audia, would be worth trying the fuses.

Tailgate, how is it stuck? Latch not releasing when you pull the handle, or is it hung some other way? If it is the latch, you may have to take the pull handle loose and pull the linkage by hand to release it.

[Tominator]

Tailgate, how is it stuck? Latch not releasing when you pull the handle, or is it hung some other way? If it is the latch, you may have to take the pull handle loose and pull the linkage by hand to release it.

Yep, the latch is catching on the right side, near as I can tell anyway, it was kind of dark when I noticed the problem, and I wanted to get those trees in the ground ASAP.

[wtnhunt]

Feel stiff like it is hanging, or does it act like the linkage is broke or loose(give real easy)? You may have to take the handle and bezel loose to see, but on the 98 and older models I know you can see the point of attachment for both side of the linkages when you pull the handle up. You would have to get low enough to see behind the handle and raise it up. If that linkage has come off or broke, would assume you would have to take the gate apart to get to it to put it back on or replace it. Think the panel in the inside the tailgate comes off to gain access to the handle and those linkages. Sure Shaun will have some better information for you.

[Tominator]

90% sure the linkage is fine. I think it's just stuck on the hinge part. I can see under the handle, and near as I can tell (in the dark, without my glasses), the link rod is moving.

Hoping the ride into work this morning shook it loose.

[wtnhunt]

If it is sticking at the side, might shoot a little wd-40 in the side where it releases. Would think the linkage should pull it though. Have seen a few stubborn/sticky gates that you had to push them in when you pulled the handle to get the latch to release, may be worth a try.

[redkneck]

You overdo it with the load handler?

[Tominator]

Got the tailgate fixed. The link arm fell off the right side. Little plastic clip holding it in finally got too brittle I guess. Fished it out of the tailgate with a clothes hanger and wired it back in. I took a pic I'll post later. Unfortunately, I broke the plastic border thingy that goes around the handle of the tailgate. I'll probably silicone it back on when I get a chance.

Radio still bamboozling me. Noticed there's NO sound at all. No chimes, no low fuel warning, no "hey DB, you left your lights on" sounds, nothing. Can't make heads or tails out of some of those fuses, so I'm waiting on Shaun.

Now I'm off to remove the door panel off my 2003 Buick LeSabre. Anybody ever remove one of those?

[wtnhunt]

90% sure the linkage is fine. I think it's just stuck on the hinge part. I can see under the handle, and near as I can tell (in the dark, without my glasses), the link rod is moving.

Hoping the ride into work this morning shook it loose.

If that linkage has come off or broke, would assume you would have to take the gate apart to get to it to put it back on or replace it.

Got the tailgate fixed. The link arm fell off the right side. Little plastic clip holding it in finally got too brittle I guess. Fished it out of the tailgate with a clothes hanger and wired it back in. I took a pic I'll post later. Unfortunately, I broke the plastic border thingy that goes around the handle of the tailgate. I'll probably silicone it back on when I get a chance.

Hmmmm, "link arm" sounds like the linkage I was talking about.:D:D Glad you got it fixed Chris. Might try goop to hold on the handle bezel("border thingy")

Radio still bamboozling me. Noticed there's NO sound at all. No chimes, no low fuel warning, no "hey DB, you left your lights on" sounds, nothing. Can't make heads or tails out of some of those fuses, so I'm waiting on Shaun.

That is weird you are not getting any sounds from anything. Those chimes should not go through your sound system. Usually the lights on chime works without the key in the ignition, should be totally seperate from your stereo system and speakers.

Now I'm off to remove the door panel off my 2003 Buick LeSabre. Anybody ever remove one of those?

Most door panels are pretty simple, but you have to be careful not to break the little plastic snaps that hold them in, they make a tool that is helpful but a flat pry bar(wonder bar type) will also work. Usually a screw or two holding on an arm rest, if there is a manual window crank you will have to pop it off, helps to have the tool for that but can be done with a screw driver. Should not be much else to hold it on.

[Goinghuntin]

Those plastic clips can be nightmares! They're pretty cheap if you do break them, just go down to your autoparts store and get a package of GM clips. They all carry them, they almost have to. ALL clips break :bang: Kind of my pet peeve.

Nathan

[Shaun_300]

The radio sounds the amplifier to me. All depends on the stereo you have in it, there's about 4 different ones. PM me your VIN and I'll have a better idea when I look at the wiring diagram for the right one you have.

Front door panel I take it? Pull the little panel at the front top of the door panel off, the shark fin looking one. Unplug the tweeter. Stick a flat blade screwdriver behind the inside door bezel and pop it off the door panel. Unplug the door lock switch. Gotta pull the handle open part way to get the bezel out. Take out the screw behind the bezel. Then pop the door reflector out and take the screw out behind it. Now the fun part, get a screwdriver or a big flat blade tool between the door panel and the door at the bottom edge of it. Pry out far enough to get a couple fingers in there and pull towards you, some take quite the pull, once all the clips pop loose push the panel up to get it out of the window molding.

[Tominator]

Hmmmm, "link arm" sounds like the linkage I was talking about.:D:D Glad you got it fixed Chris. Might try goop to hold on the handle bezel("border thingy")

Like I said, I was 90% sure it wasn't linkage. In the dark without my glasses and it was really anyone's guess.

The radio sounds the amplifier to me. All depends on the stereo you have in it, there's about 4 different ones. PM me your VIN and I'll have a better idea when I look at the wiring diagram for the right one you have.

Googled it, and apparently there's a GM notice out on it. Seems it is something in the amplifier if I remember correctly. In reading the notice, looks as if I won't be able to fix it myself. I'll have to give you that VIN # someday Shaun, thanks.

Front door panel I take it? Pull the little panel at the front top of the door panel off, the shark fin looking one. Unplug the tweeter. Stick a flat blade screwdriver behind the inside door bezel and pop it off the door panel. Unplug the door lock switch. Gotta pull the handle open part way to get the bezel out. Take out the screw behind the bezel. Then pop the door reflector out and take the screw out behind it. Now the fun part, get a screwdriver or a big flat blade tool between the door panel and the door at the bottom edge of it. Pry out far enough to get a couple fingers in there and pull towards you, some take quite the pull, once all the clips pop loose push the panel up to get it out of the window molding.

No, this is the rear door panel on the Buick LeSabre. I got the panel off just fine. Googled that too. I've removed door panels before when my old S10 lost the lock thingy.

Anyway, got the panel off, and now I really don't know what the problem is. The window appears to be on the track, but it won't stay up. There's a metal thing on the bottom with a steel cable attached to it. I need another person to engage the window to see what's going on, but it appears the whatever is supposed to grip that window isn't working anymore.

[toddyboman]

If all else fails......try this.

Good luck!

[Shaun_300]

Sounds like the window regulator, the cable is broken. Pretty common thing to break. Those ones are friggin expensive too on the LeSabre. Well the GM ones anyway, they're like $600. One of the other techs just replaced one today actually, they got an aftermarket one for $175.

[LETMGROW]

There are aftermarket regulators out there. NAPA sells a line called Balkamp and some parts stores carry the Dorman line. These come with the regulator and motor as an assembly.

Only trickery to installing is the need for a large riveter to install the rivets properly.

If you have a friend who works at a body shop he might have access to a riveter.

Lynn

[Shaun_300]

Think the regulators in the LeSabre are bolted to the door, not riveted. Most newer GM's are all bolted. But I do know the ones you're talking about. Need the "Big Daddy" riveter for the 1/4" rivets.:flex:

[Tominator]

Sounds like the window regulator, the cable is broken. Pretty common thing to break. Those ones are friggin expensive too on the LeSabre. Well the GM ones anyway, they're like $600. One of the other techs just replaced one today actually, they got an aftermarket one for $175.

Yep, regulator thingy, lol.

Is that the silver thing below the window with the cable running out of it? Looks like it wouldn't be too difficult to replace.

[Shaun_300]

Yep. That's the thingy. Not too hard at all Chris, I think you can handle it.

[Tominator]

This one is bolted. I checked it over pretty good.

Care to post the sequence of how to go about replacing it Oh Master GM Technician God?

[wtnhunt]

Might try checking a salvage yard before paying an excessive price Chris. Sometimes parts such as window regulators can be found in perfectly good condition at a fraction of the cost of new and some will even give warranties. Kinda miss the old pick a part yards they had in Florida where you could pay a fee and pull your parts from the yard, around here the only salvage yards we have charge in most cases close to what you can get the reman or made in china parts for from the big name auto parts stores.

If there are bolts in it where there were rivets, guessing it may already be a replacement part, possible someone drilled it out and tapped of course that is just guessing.

[Shaun_300]

This one is bolted. I checked it over pretty good.

Care to post the sequence of how to go about replacing it Oh Master GM Technician God?

Don't make me sound too important and smart now Chris!

Get one with the regulator and motor together as an assembly. Which most come that way now anyway. Get the window all the way up and tape it up with masking tape or duck tape. Just take a couple long strips from about a foot down the window, over top of the door and onto the other side of the window. If you don't do this when you unbolt the window regulator the window will fall and end up in 239829305 pieces on the inside of you door.:hammer1: Unplug and unbolt the door module. Loosen the clamping bolts from the part where the regulator brackets clamps around the glass. Then take all the bolts/or nuts off that hold the regulator to the door. The regulator will fold up a bit, you have to jimmy it around in there a bit to get it out of the hole. Put the new one in and get it tightened up to the door. Plug the motor in and then plug the window switch in, hit the UP button until the clamps clamp the bottom of the window and the regulator stops. Tighten the clamping bolts. Take the tape off and move it up and down a few times to make sure everything is working ok. Bolt the door module back on and put the door panel on and you're done.:clap:

[Tominator]

Don't make me sound too important and smart now Chris!

Get one with the regulator and motor together as an assembly. Which most come that way now anyway. Get the window all the way up and tape it up with masking tape or duck tape. Just take a couple long strips from about a foot down the window, over top of the door and onto the other side of the window. If you don't do this when you unbolt the window regulator the window will fall and end up in 239829305 pieces on the inside of you door.:hammer1: Unplug and unbolt the door module. Loosen the clamping bolts from the part where the regulator brackets clamps around the glass. Then take all the bolts/or nuts off that hold the regulator to the door. The regulator will fold up a bit, you have to jimmy it around in there a bit to get it out of the hole. Put the new one in and get it tightened up to the door. Plug the motor in and then plug the window switch in, hit the UP button until the clamps clamp the bottom of the window and the regulator stops. Tighten the clamping bolts. Take the tape off and move it up and down a few times to make sure everything is working ok. Bolt the door module back on and put the door panel on and you're done.:clap:

Sounds simple enough, when can you do it? I'm swamped.

J/K--Thanks bud. I'll print that off and give her a try. To be honest though, I'm thinking I'll take the old one off and leave the tape on the window for a long time, lol. At least until the rut is over.

[LETMGROW]

Might try checking a salvage yard before paying an excessive price Chris. Sometimes parts such as window regulators can be found in perfectly good condition at a fraction of the cost of new and some will even give warranties. Kinda miss the old pick a part yards they had in Florida where you could pay a fee and pull your parts from the yard, around here the only salvage yards we have charge in most cases close to what you can get the reman or made in china parts for from the big name auto parts stores.

If there are bolts in it where there were rivets, guessing it may already be a replacement part, possible someone drilled it out and tapped of course that is just guessing.

Problem here is most salvage yards want to sell a complete door, for obvious reasons. If they break it up the part probably came out of a damaged or rusted door. Warranty or not you will be stuck doing the job again if you have trouble.

Been there done that!

Lynn

[wtnhunt]

Warranty or not you will be stuck doing the job again if you have trouble.

Been there done that!

Lynn

Good point there Lynn, there are a few around here that do typically sell tested guaranteed parts just like auto parts stores. Have bought a few parts before from auto parts stores(napa and autozone) over the years that were actually bad out of the box, kind of frustrating when you go to the trouble to change something only to find it does not work.

Been a few times I have had to buy oem items at the salvage yard that the parts stores could not get, the dealership only items that the dealerships want to charge and arm and leg for.

[LETMGROW]

When I install a motor/regulator I always plug it into the harness and try it to be sure it works. WORD OF CAUTION! Be careful where you have your hands. These things move much faster than you might think. They can pinch you.

Have Fun,

Lynn