Choosing Arrows?


SIDMike

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Hey, guys...got some great feedback on my last question about choosing a re-entry bow. Now I need help choosing arrows. It has been a long time since I bought arrows and the game has changed so much, I am sort of wondering which way to go. I am not sure what length to get and what spine to get, etc. I just want good, sturdy arrows that I can hunt and practice with. Any help you can give on choosing the right ones will be appreciated.

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Goldtips are an excellent choice, not pricey and a very reliable arrow. I'd recommend the Hunter XT's since they are a bit better on the straightness. Your arrow length will be determined by the arrow rest you choose for your bow but you can get your arrow length at a local bow shop when you bow is set up. The 5575 is perfectly spined for the poundage you will be shooting, I hunted and used them for tournaments for several years. I still use the Goldtips for tournaments but switched to the CX Maxima Hunters for hunting. These are very pricey but well worth the money to me. Just getting back into bowhunting, go with the Goldtips.

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I really like my Easton Axis arrows. Small diameter, decent grains per inch, and tough as nails. I had one hit a 4"x4" fence post and bury in about 3 inches. Just unscrewed it from the field point and put on a new one. Still shoots the same. I also have some of the Beman Bone Collector series, and they shoot the same as my Easton's. With that draw weight you will need a 340 spine. As far as the length, that all depends on what type of rest you are using and how far back you want the point to sit. For example, with my QAD rest sitting far back(like an overdraw) I can cut my arrows back to the middle of my riser. A lot of people that I've helped set up prefer to have the tip slightly in front of the riser, for safety concerns and versatility(such as being able to use the same arrow for broadheads and say a Gobler Guillotine). You could either go to a pro shop and draw back a measurement arrow with your bow, or just draw an uncut arrow back and have a friend mark where you want it cut off and then cut the whole batch to that length.

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I bought some Redhead Carbon Maxx 4000 arrows from Bass Pro Shop last summer and haven't been able to break one yet which is a new record for me. Lost one though. I have one of them I have shot 3 bucks (passthroughs) and a pine tree (didn't passthrough) with and it's still going. Had to refletch it after shooting up the fletching on the Field Hunter course (4 arrows at one target). They seem to accurate too. I took home money most league nights. They weigh 405 grains with a 100 grain head which is a good compromise.

Mark

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Size the spine of the arrow shafts on the charts using the draw weight in the middle of your bows adjustment range. ie. on a 60-70lb bow start at 65lbs. That way if tuning shows the arrows are acting too stiff you can turn the poundage up some or if they are acting underspined you can turn it down.

This is especially true nowadays because some bows produce much more stress on the arrow at lower poundages than others. And some produce less stress with more draw weight even though they are "speed" bows.

Broadhead tuning is a good method for optimizing your draw weight to your arrows.

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