Rem308 Posted September 5, 2008 Report Share Posted September 5, 2008 Hey folks, I've been throwing the idea around of reloading for quite awhile. I have been wanting to start to not only enjoy another aspect of the shooting sports, but also to really fine tune some of my shooting. I have looked at the RCBS complete kits as well as a few of the others out there. I have read a few reviews and some say Lee is the way to go, while others tell me just the opposite. What I'd like is for some advice and information as to a beginner getting started reloading. Is there any good deals out there on new or used equipment that you'd recommend? Also, I've read over a few of the guides and such for reloading. I have found a few that cover everthing from cleaning the brass through all the steps to completion. They help, but I still feel that I'm missing something. I probably will just have to ask a few of the guys I shoot with to give me a tour and maybe even show me how to load a few. Any information or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strut10 Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 The secondary market can give up some real deals on equipment.........gun shows, trader papers, etc. Also check out Midway and Natchez Shooter's Supply for new stuff on the cheap. I probably will just have to ask a few of the guys I shoot with to give me a tour and maybe even show me how to load a few. Very good idea......as long as the person showing you knows what he's doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 I bought a complete set off of Ebay and got a good deal on it. I dont think it was ever used. I also bought a DVD off of Ebay. The guys is an older guy and takes his time showing you what to do. It really breaks it down and makes it simple. RCBS is my favorite. Im not to crazy about Lee. The only Lee product I own is my Shell holders. I dont think you can go wrong with the Rock Chucker. Also IMHO, at first I would buy new brass when you get started. Not having to worry about resizing, case trimming, and the primer hole will save you a headache until you get setup. JMHO.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strut10 Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 Also IMHO, at first I would buy new brass when you get started. Not having to worry about resizing, case trimming, and the primer hole will save you a headache until you get setup. JMHO.... Ummmmm...................a feller really oughta resize and trim brand new brass, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangunnr Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 Ummmmm...................a feller really oughta resize and trim brand new brass, too. Uh yeah, what he said... Brand new out of the bag Winchester brass. hangunnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rem308 Posted September 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 Hey Hangunnr, a friend of mine has a DPMS AR10 that leaves every spent round with a perfect "D" shape...is it that hard to reshape 'em back? I see most of the kits include a trimmer and resizer...do you have to resize because it swells when the round is fired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangunnr Posted September 6, 2008 Report Share Posted September 6, 2008 The D shape at the case mouth could likely be eliminated by fine tuning the extractor. It would seem his rifle is holding the brass a little too long causing it to impact the side of the gun during discharge. A sizing die will round it right back out. You resize the brass to bring it back down to a certain size to allow proper feeding into the chamber. When a round is fired it will swell the brass effectivly sealing the chamber. After repeated firing / resizing the brass will grow in length and will need to be trimmed back to a safe length. hangunnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailmanmark Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Have seen that before with the winchester brass. I seem to get the best results with remington brass. Federal brass too soft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnf Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 I have the Lee Challenger kit and have been very pleased with it. I have gotten a tumbler, case trimmer and a caliper to go along with it. I've got RCBS and Lee dies and to be honest the RCBS dies have performed much better for me than the lee. Also make sure to get at least one manual, and Hornady makes a good dvd to watch. Don't fool yourself into thinking your going to save money, I've probably shot 10X more shells this year than In the last 5 years combined, but it sure has been fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OJR Posted September 7, 2008 Report Share Posted September 7, 2008 Ummmmm...................a feller really oughta resize and trim brand new brass, too. I agree with that completely! I have used RCBS for years without too many problems. They are much better than Lee. I have also found out I get better accuracy with Redding dies than RCBS also! I have switched to using nothing but Redding dies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 8, 2008 Report Share Posted September 8, 2008 I have NEVER seen new brass like that! Ive bought at least 5 bags of .243 and havent had a single one in nearly that bad of shape! Now you have me worried! I just loaded 100 rounds this weekend. I didnt check the length of any new brass!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 Hey Hangunnr... Do you think that deformation is from shaping or shippment and packing? I have been buying brass in .243, .308, .357, and .30-06 and have yet to get an entire bunch like that. Occasionally I do get some that need the throat cleaned up but nothing like that on a regular basis?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OJR Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 I have seen brass come out of the bag looking worse than that! That happens all the time and is more than likely caused from shipping and handling! They throw the boxes around all the time! Also you need to chamfer the inside and outside of the neck on all new brass. You would do this after you have full length resized it and trimmed it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangunnr Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 I would say one of the reasons the brass looked like it did is because of how the meatheads at Gander Mountain stock their shelves. They seem to just throw the stuff out there. I've had several bags of the Winchester brass look similar to this. I also believe that the brass is very soft in virgin form. As a rule now I automatically just do a size and trim on all new Win. brass. I've had excellent results with the Nosler and Lapua brass right out of the box. Both of these brands were spot on in length and both required no work prior to the first loading. I'd stay as far away as possible from anything with the Lee name on it. There's a reason they're the cheapest out there... hangunnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strut10 Posted September 9, 2008 Report Share Posted September 9, 2008 I'd stay as far away as possible from anything with the Lee name on it. There's a reason they're the cheapest out there... hangunnr With the exception of the Lee Auto-Prime ............... true dat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 Are the auto primers worth their money? I still use the press to prime.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangunnr Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 With the exception of the Lee Auto-Prime ............... true dat. The hand held Auto Prime....OK. The press mounted Auto Prime II is a POS... Is a auto priming system necessary.....no. They do however allow you to prime the cases without having to touch the primers. hangunnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 That would be worth something. Primers can be tedious. While we are on the topic of reloading.... On my .243 im using IMR 4350. The manual calls out mag primers when loading 100grn btsp. I didn't notice this at first and have been loading both 100grn btsp and 75grn v-max with the same Remington primers. The groups have been fairly tight. Would I really gain by switching to appropriate primers? There is only a couple of grain difference (powder) between the two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hangunnr Posted September 10, 2008 Report Share Posted September 10, 2008 Let me answer that in a PM... hangunnr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 11, 2008 Report Share Posted September 11, 2008 Thanks for the PM.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgreen Posted September 20, 2008 Report Share Posted September 20, 2008 Go with the Rock Chucker for a press. All of my sizing is neck only, until I have chambering problems. Then it is time for a full length resize. I trim to .004 under my chamber's actual length. I only have to trim after 5 or 6 firings. The closer the tolerences of case to chamber dimensions, the better your accuracy. Experiment with different bullets, seating depths, and primers. Eventually you will find your sweet spot. I use only WLRM primers. They are the most consistant that I have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tominator Posted September 28, 2008 Report Share Posted September 28, 2008 How much do you have to shoot to justify the cost of reloading vs. buying factory rounds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strut10 Posted September 28, 2008 Report Share Posted September 28, 2008 How much do you have to shoot to justify the cost of reloading vs. buying factory rounds? Depends what you're shooting. If you're talking 9mm or .223 it's thousands of rounds. If you're talking 7mm STW or .375 Weatherby it's only a few hundred rounds. A visit to Midway's website to price reloading equipment and components then a look at a reloading data manual or website for specific quantities of powder per load can lead to an interesting math project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeramie Posted September 29, 2008 Report Share Posted September 29, 2008 Bullet selection also makes a difference Chris. I like playing with the .243, 75grn, Hornady V-max. I can reload them much cheaper than I can buy them. Also, you find deals. I picked up a box of Nosler partition, .30 cal for $15 (really cheap). That is 50 premium rounds that I can now reload far cheaper than I can buy them. The initial cost is in the "Start Up." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnf Posted October 1, 2008 Report Share Posted October 1, 2008 How much do you have to shoot to justify the cost of reloading vs. buying factory rounds? A pound of powder has 7000gr plus or minus a bit, divide that by the number of rounds you can load with it. My 223 shoots best with 25gr. of a particular powder, that's roughly 275 loads at $25 a lb. or around $.10 a load, primers are $.04 each and bullets are $.14 each. So I can load a box of 60gr. Hornady bullets for $6. A comparable box will cost me $21 at walmart right now. 243 uses about 45gr of powder, bullets are $.20 each, 25-06 uses around 55 gr., bullets are the same price as the 243's. Of course if you buy "better" bullets the price goes up, but will still be a lot less than they would from the factory. I do find myself shooting a lot more than before I started loading, but I'm a much better shot now too. I think after you find a good load for all your guns you will find that it will work out a lot cheaper. My first 200 shots cost me about $18 a box, not to good. Now they are less than 1/2 that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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