terry264

awesome, congrats., and best of all that deer is just as dead as if it were shot with one of the OTPG guns, LOL.

Hi Tim, HAPPY BIRTHDAY! You and your sis have a good day. Couldn't forget your b-day 'cause it's mine too. LOL,,,,,Terry

Put a few miles on an old "Dream" years ago myself. LOL

Don, isn't it handy that those big gobblers come equipped with "limb hangers" already on their legs. LOL

bird, I left 2 answers to your message notification from yesterday and today but when I click post=nothing happens. God knows where they went. These forums/msg. service are messed up.

Check the brakes on the left rear. They may be "dragging" and overheating the drum which heats the tire eventually. Drive it around a little and reach around the right rear wheel to the brake drum and feel it. Then carefully and quickly do the same with the left rear. It may be real hot so be fast. If it is really hot something is causing the brakes to drag on the left side and needs fixed.

So sorry to hear this doog, will keep you all in prayers here in WV.

I have to go to "compatibility view" to even bring the pg. up and when I click on what's new it is still all messed up. I'm lost and don't even want to click on here anymore. I hope admin. finds the link in program to "undo all changes" and uses it.

Not good news redkneck,,,,I'd go by the condition of the rest of the vehicle to determine if it's worth another engine, because that one is lunched. Sorry about your luck.

You really should check out hyundaiforum.com Lots of info there, like=POO16 Check Engine Light Problem Solution The P0016 code is a discrepancy between the camshaft and crankshaft timing. This code is thrown for a few reasons. Go through this diagnostic procedure and you will probably identify the problem: 1. Check your timing belt. Install a compression tester to cyl #1 (furthest cyl left when looking at the engine from the front) and bar the engine over. When you begin to develop compression on the guage, you know you are approaching TDC. Bar over until the mark is lined up with "T" on the lower timing belt cover timing marks and stop. Then, pull the upper belt cover (four sleeved M6 bolts/10mm heads) and ensure that you can see the red timing mark through the hole at 12 o'clock on the camshaft gear. If you can see red, then you are close on the timing. However, if you have removed the camshaft gear recently or replaced the timing belt recently, you need to check that the locator pin on the camshaft gear is not bent. This can cause you to be 1/2 a tooth off, and can lead to catastrophic engine failure if the pin snaps. Loosen the timing belt and remove the bolt holding the camshaft gear and inspect it to ensure it is straight. If it is straight, then reassemble. If it is bent, that is your problem. Replace the pin and clear codes. The pin bends easily when you torque either the camshaft gear or balancer pulley. If the pin is OK or you have not changed the timing belt, removed the cam gear or balancer pulley, then check.... 2. The Oil Control Valve. All Huyndai engines from 2004 on have CVVT (constant variable valve timing). The oil control valve is located on the front of the engine just above the temp. sending unit. Pull the OCV and let it cool to room temp. Once it is cool, take your fluke meter and test resistance across the two pins. It should read from 6.7 ohms to 7.9 ohms. If it reads outside of those specs, replace it. If it passes the resistance test, then take your test leads and connect it to your battery (not polar specific). If the valve fails to engage, then replace it. This should cost about $160-$180 and is easily removed as it is only held in by one M6/10mm bolt. Pull straight out once bolt is removed and electrical connector is removed. If it passes both tests, then reinstall it. Between the timing and OCV, you should find the problem. If you don't, then check the connection to the OCV. If it is damaged, then you will need to replace the connector. If your ECM is throwing the P0016 code, than the above steps will most likely expose the problem. It should either be a timing belt allignment issue, a bent locator pin, or a bad OCV. Good Luck!!

cheap and reliable = Hi Point C9 probably. Perform flawlessly (mine do), made in Ohio, and have lifetime warranty (even if sold-for next buyer). The JHP45 I shoot a lot is more controllable and easier to control than the 709 (9mm) slim from Taurus. Also the hi point is about half the price of anything else and built just like a glock imo. Check them out.

redkneck, almost figured a broken cam belt which usually causes a lot of valve damage if it's an interference engine, but after looking at hyundaiforums.com (search your fault code #), it could be a couple other things.

Really enjoy these videos, but have to remember to plug this laptop in when I get to your site or I'll be replacing the battery again, LOL.

#1=2/7/05 and #2=63,,,,gettin' up there

Jesse, double check with the receiving FFL and make sure they will accept the firearm and don't forget to write down what is supposed to happen with it after he gets it. Might be a good idea to include a copy of your drivers license in the pkg. or ask them if they need it. USPS rules say you can do it; just remember to NOT mark the pkg. as a firearm and follow the USPS rules (ref. DMM 601 Mailability, sections 12.0 thru 12.2 inclusive) which you can find on the USPS website. Hope this helps.

Think I'll sit tight until they come out with this case chambered in 5 mm (.204) or in .22 cal. It's almost inevitable that they will and there will be much more bullet weight choices. Interesting cartridge though.

Prayers sent from WV for the Jordan Family.

In here daily keeping up on things, just don't post much. Good luck to all this year.

I'm always in here several times a day. Just reading mostly, don't post much, but here. Good to see who all is still here.

Gosh! That would be considered a "Dwelling" in West Virginia and wouldn't be allowed to shoot within 400 ft. of it. LOL

A really sweet one just hit the classifieds in rimfirecentral.com this eve. for 300 shipped. It's a Walther sp22 M3 target pistol. I have one of these myself which is why I know how they perform. Target grade 6 in. barrel, fully adj. trigger, rails top & bottom, etc. FS walther sp 22 m3 pistol - RimfireCentral.com Forums

Zebco 202, and it's probably 50 yrs. old. Still have it for a backup reel in my tackle box and have to use it occasionally when another brand takes a dump. Have had to put new line on it a few times over the years because it looked like a coil spring when casted-haha. Been through several reels over the years and currently have a zebco 33 on the pole (same pole btw). It seems to be holding up well but is in need of some new line on it too.

Unfortunately, you probably already voided your warranty since you are not an "approved" repair station or Chrysler dealer. If they don't do it themselves, well, that's how they save money on these "so called" warranties.

Yes! Me too, so it's not just a Vermont thingy, haha. Last couple of days it's been like this on both of my pc's. Troublesome, makes me think it's something on my end although the other sites are no problem.

I did change fluid/filter in the C4 automatic in my '75 Bronco back in 1994 because the fluid was looking a little brown and stunk. But it's been fine ever since. Both the front and rear ends are always full as is the transfer case. Wonder if it's time to change them yet? LOL