ranchand99

Now that I've decided to go with a scope,instead of open sights.I was just curious what you guys shoot on your slug guns.I was thinking about a simmons 3-9x40.I have had good luck with simmons before.Thanks in advance!

Re: Slug Gun I think you guys have convinced me to go with the H&R.It doesn't look as good as the rossi,but it does have a heavier,longer barrel,and scope mounts.It costs a little more,but I guess it's worth it...if it's that accurate.Thanks guys!

Re: S-Coil Stablizer... Everyone I have talked to says they are great.Bass Pro in Savannah has been sold out for 2 months now.I'd say they are a very hot item.I'll get one as soon as I see it.The archery guy at bps said it was as quiet as his module system on his switchback.I know they (Switchbacks)are quiet to start with,but hey $15,that's a great deal in my book.If no one wants theirs I'll give 'em $15 for it.

Re: Re knocking a bow Hey man,I love it!!I've always had a hard time with nock pinching,and serving creep.I decided to give this a try,and I'm glad I did.It will also line up your peep,but I have a tube connected to mine,so it doesn't help me there.No,there was no noise!!If your string loop breaks,or you just want to change it,you won't lose your nock point either.My Victory is very quiet,and I didn't notice a change in string noise,after I added it,besides I actually picked up 2-3 fps.I don't know if that is because it wasn't pinching the nock,or if it was because the guy at Bass Pro had the wrong nock point on it when I bought it.Either way it has been a great add on in my book. TWO THUMBS UP!! P.S. The Saunders hyperglide is quiet too,and water doesn't make it shudder like the plastic cable slides do(PSE style).Hope I helped.

I really would like some input on this gun.I plan on shooting open sights no farther than 35-40yds.Any help would be greatly appreciated! http://www.taurususa.com/products/product-details.cfm?model=444SS8&category=Revolver

Re: Rifle Suggestions! I didn't say they weren't accurate.I said that I heard they werent as accurate.They have a 23" barrel instead of a 24" barrel.That may be the difference. [ QUOTE ] a longer barrel is generally better in terms of practical accuracy because a longer and therefore heavier barrel (within reason) is easier to hold relatively steady from unsupported positions; thus it is easier to shoot a long barreled rifle accurately. The length of the rifle barrel has a direct influence on the velocity obtained from the cartridge for which it is chambered. Ballistically, longer is usually better. But for carrying, handling, and maneuvering in close quarters (like thick brush) shorter is usually better. [/ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] For this reason, many magnum rifles now come with 24 inch barrels, which sacrifice some of the magnum's velocity. 24 inches is about the minimum barrel length practical for most magnum cartridges. [/ QUOTE ] [ QUOTE ] The typical barrel length for a repeating hunting rifle chambered for standard high intensity cartridges, like the .243, .270, .308, or .30-06, is 22-24 inches, with 22 inches being the more common length today. [/ QUOTE ] I'm also talking 270wsm,not 270.Anyways Magnums need longer barrels.The Short mag is hotter,and needs a longer barrel to help burn the charge.The 270WSM responds better to longer barrels,such as muzzleloaders with 150gr of pyrodex tend to like longer barrels.My uncle has a regular 270 browning,and he is getting the same resluts as you,but with winchester 130gr ballistic sivertips.Also,As I previously stated any of these guns are fine,and won't be a disappointment.

Re: New Fawns? I understand,but breeding dates vary everywhere.I'm using examples in Ga,but have heard from friends in Ill,that they too have seen rutting activity in Jan.It doesn't matter where you are geographically.There are simply some does that are bred late,and I don't think it is uncommon for you to see fawns such as you are.The "peak" is just that.Not the only time deer breed.I'm assuming peak in your area is in Nov.That doesn't mean a deer won't breed in Jan.

Re: Fletch Length Oh,and the blazers are short,and light,but they are also high enough to catch wind.Meaning that sometimes they do fly well with heads in the 100gr range,when normally you would want to drop to a 75-85gr head with lighter fletchings.But they usually shoot better with mech. heads,or field tips that are in the 100gr range,rather than 100gr fixed blade heads,because of increased wind resistance from larger blades.I have heard mixed results with them.

Re: Fletch Length Smitteken,when you start changing fletching weight/size you have to pay attention to the arrows foc.Meaning lighter vanes need a lighter head.Here is a foc calculator,and arrow weight calculator for different arrow brands,lengths,vanes,tips,nocks...etc.. www.bowjackson.com Ideal FOC is 7-15% with around 9% being best.More than this and the arrow is nose heavy and becomes unstable quickly as the fletching cannot stabilize the flight and any breeze will throw the tail about. Less than this and the arrow becomes tail heavy and as it slows down will start to stall and destabilize just like a plane will if it slides backwards. Hope I helped.

Re: Broadhead Choice Fixed or Mechnical Mirage.The spitfires,and other jacknife style heads don't open fully until they are in the animal anyways.I had a problem with them not opening on angled shots.I had good luck with Rocky Mountain Snypers.They open before entering the deer,and actually leave a bigger hole in than out due to the blades slapping out.Here's more about what I'm saying. http://www.rockymtbroadheads.com/01-snyper.html I loved thunderheads,but they weren't flying as well with faster speeds.That's why I went to mech.I have tried several,and the snyper worked best for me.The spitfires are sharp though,but I couldn't get them to work properly after I put the replacement blades in.I'm currently shooting Rocky Mountain Titanium 100's(Fixed),and they fly great.My Victory is shooting between 290-295.Fixed is the real way to go,but for people that don't know how to tune a bow,I recommend mech,as long as their bow is strong enough.You could drop from a 125gr head to a 100gr,and gain a little more speed.That aluminum arrow is heavy enough on it's own to push through a deer.I'm not sure If I would shoot mech. with your set up.You need to know how much KE your bow has.If you can chrono your bow,and know your speed,all you have to do is figure the weight of your arrow,and this calculator will tell you how much KE you have. http://home.att.net/~sajackson/ke.html [ QUOTE ] Recommended standards: It has been offered by some experts that 45 ft-lb of arrow energy is a good minimum for whitetail deer, while 55 ft-lb is a proper minimum for elk and caribou. It has been further suggested by several in the broadhead business that an extra 10 ft-lb should be added to each of these minimums when mechanical broadheads are used. These, of course, are only rough guidelines. Many animals have been taken through the years, and will continue to be, with well-placed arrows carrying much less energy. [/ QUOTE ] Also,in this site is an arrow weight calculator for eastons,and a wide variety of arrow brands,tip weights,vanes..etc. www.bowjackson.com Hope I helped.

Re: Re knocking a bow It doesn't matter if you have a youth bow or not.Compounds are all set up the same.It's not that hard.If your rest is set properly.I set the rest where it is centered with the bolt that holds the rest on.I think some people call it a plunger bolt.Here is a picture of what I mean.This is a Diamond victory,all bows have this bolt hole. From there comes the easy part.Take the ruler,it should have clips to clip onto the string.Set the long part on your rest like it is an arrow.You want it to sit down on the rest like it is an arrow.Then look back on your string part,and notice the measurements.You want nock point to be 1/8-1/4" high.Shoot your bow,and see if it seems right.If you have access to a chronograph you can move your nock point up and down in the 1/8 to 1/4" range to find where you are getting the most speed from.Hope I helped.

Re: Question for ya??? Can you say "Get the game cart"?It's nice to get that first deer of the season,so you can calm down.Fawns are old enough by hunting season to survive on their own here.I shoot hair with my bow,and muzzleloader.When I pull the .30-06 out,then it's time to trophy hunt.

Re: New Fawns? I have seen does in august that were still pregnant.That's only happend 2 times,and I'll admit that's rare.Gestation period for deer is around 200 days.If those fawns were 3 weeks old.That means the doe would have been bred in the last of Jan,or first of feb.Our rut in the coastal area of Ga. starts in sept.and usually you can find deer breeding all the way up to jan.Like dogdoc said sometimes when there are too many does,or if the doe just wasn't able to breed for a number of reasons.Some areas not even 300 miles from me,have peak ruts in jan.So it depends on your area.Fawns usually start to lose their spots at 3 months old.So,yes it is very likely you are right about the age of the fawns.Keep an eye on them,and when their spots start to come off you'll have a better idea.Oh yeah,and another thing.Areas that green up later in the year usually have later ruts,such as some areas have later peak turkey breeding times.That way there is an abundance of food for the young.We green up in the last of feb.,and early march.That's another reason why I believe we have such an early rut.Sometimes,way earlier than the rest of the state.There needs to be adequate cover available for the fawns.Hope I helped.

Re: Crop Damage Permits.... Well,I can respect that AJ.Most fawns are capable of surviving by sept.,but late June,and July?I can see where certain situations would call for it.During those times you are talking about.125 deer for 250 acres is rediculous.I live on a 200 acre farm,and we probably have 15 deer on the property.We usually only take 3 or 4 a year.I guess things are different in other areas,but the people down here take advantage of these permits.I don't shoot deer with a spotlight.There is no skill in that.I know when you are going to take them out that is the easiest way.Most areas down here recieve more than enough hunting pressure,and the deer are not doing more damage than insects would.Most of the people just apply for a permit so they can shoot deer,not because the deer are endangering crops.I know a few people who plant the minimum acreage just for the purpose of getting a permit.I can see where if you owned a business that sold apples you would want to take them out.But if the trees are there for the sole purpose of drawing deer,then what damage is being done?This must be area specific,so if any of the people that are having true problems,such as AJ, have been offended..please forgive me.There are some people who do take advantage of it though.

Re: Why a 3x9x50? Well,I have always shot 50+ mm scopes.They are supposed to gather more light at dark.3-9x40 is by far probably the most poular style.My first was a tasco 3-12x56,and I would have been better off with a 3-9x32.That scope didn't really collect that much light.It even had a 30mm tube.I currently use a 2.5-10x50 simmons.It's great,and collects more light than the tasco did.HOWEVER,my friend bought a 3-9x40 nikon buckmaster,and it gathers light better than my simmons.His scope did cost nearly $100 more....but that's how it is.A Bigger bell doesn't always mean it will give you more light transition.If it is the exact same line,such as if both are bushnell sportsman then go with the 50.If they aren't of the same line,but of the same brand,then the more expensive one will generally be better.(Such as the Elite is better than the sportsman)Neither may be better than what you are currently shooting.It's just a preference thing.Most of the time you get what you pay for though. Hope I helped.

Re: Rifle Suggestions! I would suggest a 270 WSM no matter what brand.I have been wanting one for a while,and I might just be able to get one.I currently shoot a .30-06,but the 270 WSM is so much faster,flatter shooting,and harder hitting.All from a lighter bullet.WalMart price is usually $150-200 less than suggested prices. If you see one you like go to wally worlds website,and look in special order guns.You may be suprised how good of a deal you can get! Here are some links with popular brands. Remington 700 XCR It's the new kid on the block.I just saw this design a few days ago...Awesome with grips like the winchester. http://www.remington.com/firearms/centerfire/700xcr.htm Winchester model 70.This is the ultimate,but the regular shadow can be bought at walmart w/ a 3-9x40 simmons scope for under $400!You can get it in camo too!(not for under $400 though) http://www.winchesterguns.com/prodinfo/catalog/detail.asp?cat_id=535&type_id=929&cat=001C Savages are overlooked alot.I have one in .30-06,and it has never let me down.It gets 1" patterns at 100yds with 150gr winchester ballistic silvertips.(With me shooting! )Not to mention they now have an accu-trigger that you can adjust the pull on. http://www.savagearms.com/11g.htm Finally the popular Browning,but I have heard they don't shoot as accurate as the savage or winchester(I haven't heard anything about the remington yet,but it's a model 700 so you know it's good!).They have a 23" barrel instead of a 24" barrel.That may be the difference. http://www.browning.com/products/catalog...amp;type_id=013 Out of these four I am hung up between the savage(for price,and accu-trigger),and winchester(For the grip),but you really can't lose with any of these.All these guns come in a variety of barrel types,and stock finishes.Hope I helped.

Re: Public Hunting Areas MissouriHunter,We went to Mo last year,granted we hunted private land,but my experience was nearly the same.I saw 2 huge bucks the day before season while scouting,but they must have been abducted over night.I heard so many shots,4 wheelers,and hootin' and hollerin' it was rediculous.People were hunting right on the property lines,and weren't cuttin' it any slack.I hunt primarily public land here in Ga,but atleast here you can't see far.I mean in MO out of 400 acres there may be 75 wooded ya know?I passed a 120 class buck up the first morning,because of the 2 I had seen the day before.BAD mistake,I never saw another shooter,and ended up taking a 5pt.Well,I didn't want the $145 tag to go to waste. The guy whose land we hunted didn't charge us a dime,but my cousin,and his son were friends.One of the guys in our group was riding around,and saw a big 8pt feeding in a field while the farmer was harvesting his soybeans...He asked permission right then,and believe it or not the guy said yes.Needless to say the buck had a 20" inside spread.I don't know what he scored.So,I guess there still are people that aren't all about the almight $,but they are about as hard to find as that big buck on public land.Keep trying,and good luck to you.

Re: Missouri Deer I'm from GA.,but I went to Missouri for the rifle hunt last year in Nov.I saw some awesome bucks!One was in the mid 140's,and the other was atleast in the 160's,but there are so many people hunting it's rediculous.Around here we talk points,not score,so it was an awesome experience for me.I'll be back in Nov. for sure!!!

Re: Crop Damage Permits.... I don't see the sportsmanship in it.Most people plant crops for insurance anyways...let's keep it real.I just couldn't imagine shooting a fawn,or doe with fawns leaving them for the coyotes or starvation.But,that's just my opinion.It's like alot of other laws,(baiting,turkeys with rifles..etc.)if you don't agree with it don't do it.To each his own.

Re: luck from deer lures? YES!!Not always,but it has worked.There was a spike chasing a doe,but she had gotten out of his sight.I was wondering why the doe had ran in fron of me,because I knew I hadn't spooked her.She never came within 40yds of me,and she left at my 11 o'clock position.He came in bird doggin',and then put his nose up in the air,and came right to my code blue!I was a believer then.I have also had good luck with buckstop 200 proof,and tinks69.I usually don't use tinks that much,because it is the most popular around here.I did have a nice 6pt come in with his head up,and his tail straight out,last year during primitive weapons.I tried some trails end,and had deer,blowing everywhere.I had been up the tree for an hour,and dipped my scent wick into it,then lowered it from my treestand connected to my pull up rope.It wasn't 2 minutes later they started blowing.I never used it again.They don't all work,but sometimes you can get a "magic" bottle.

Re: ThermaCell repellant? I don't go hunting without it during early season.I have taken deer from a tree,and the ground.If they can smell it they must not know it's bad,because I don't believe I have been busted because of it.You can smell a little odor from it,but I don't think it's that strong.I would advise you not to use it in a box/or pop up blind unless you have adequate ventilation.You will know when the pad,or butane runs out.They will start biting again.I usually turn mine on when I start walking to my stand,and it may take a few minutes to make them leave,but trust me,besides a few komikazie skeeters every now and then...they will leave.The pads usually last longer than the butane does.One refill pack will last me the weekend.I still take a small bottle of repel to stop them from buzzing around my ears.They like to come in,and leave,you know testing the water.They don't usually bite until the thermaCELL stops.If anything helps stop these monster south east mosquitos it's definately worth having.Hope I helped.

Re: over unders I have a Browning Citori,and I love it.I just shoot skeet with it though.

I want either a Rossi slug gun or a H&R.They are both single shots.I am leaning towards the Rossi because it has a ported barrel,and tru-glo sights.Not to mention it is only $145 at wally world.Any input would be greatly appreciated.Thanks for your help in advance.

Re: Choke Tubes... I love my star dot.I'm shooting an 870 supermag with win HV #4's.Takes 'em out everytime.