bwlacy

Ronin Thanks for the info. I had forgot they had the copper club. Haven't been to their website in a long time.

If I switched to the 165 TSX or the MRX how much velocity would I gain versus the 180 TSX? Is it worth messing with it? I'm shooting a .300 H&H and with the 180's I'm nowhere near full capacity on the powder charge. So I could load the 165's to play around. Last year was my first experience with Barnes bullets and I don't think I'll ever change unless they quit making bullets. Very satisfied. Matt

Check how the BH's spin on his shafts. Make sure that all the BH's spin good. It may take some playing around until you get all of them spinning true. This is very important. If they don't spin true then they won't fly straight. Also paper tune the bow to start with. This will give you a good starting point. You can also download a tuning guide at eastons website for free. Try bale tuning after paper tuning, if you can't get it they way he wants it.

Yes I am!! I finally drew my Iowa bow tag. It took three years but I finally got it. My cousin and I are hunting with Jack Schuler who owns Schulers guide service. We will be hunting Warren County in zone 5. Our hunt starts on November 3 so hopefully some of those big boys will be chasing by then. I know a few guys who have hunted with Jack in the past couple years and they always see some really good bucks. I can't wait. Matt PS where do you hunt in the UP?

.300 H&H, Win model 70, handloads with Barnes 180 TSX. By far the most accurate round I have found for this rifle. .30-06 Remington model 760 I shoot 150 core-lokts. I haven't tried anything else, they shoot good, and kill deer with no problem. .30/.30 Marlin model 336 I shoot 170 round nose core-lokts. Very nice short range woods gun, killed everydeer I've shot at with this weapon. Matt

Has anyone shot the newest Barnes bullet? Last year I found a load with the TSX that my rifle really likes, and the on game performance was really good also. Just curious if the new bullet is better? Not sure if I want to change though. Why mess with a good thing. I currently get 5/8" three shot groups at 100yds with the 180 TSX, and am getting around 3050fps. Thanks for any info. Matt

That really depends on what you are looking for. Also a preference thing. Do you want a light, medium, or heavy arrow? I think that Carbon Express makes some really good shafts, also the Easton Axis, A/C, or FMJ are good, and Beman ICS or MFX. Also depends on your budget. Do you want to spend $60 or $200. I've noticed with the cheaper carbons that they aren't as straight, the weight varies, and they tend to crack length wise more. I think that all the brands make some good quality shafts.

A sharp one that flys straight I've killed deer with Thunderheads, Muzzys, and Steelforce. Probably will hunt with Thunderhead 125's this year.

Moving your site is not how you want to tune for broadheads first of all. I would never recommend that. Take the new heads and spin test them. I would bet that they don't spin good at all. Are they the same weight as your old heads? You didn't say if your bow was paper tuned to start out. If it is then I wouldn't even bother with the new heads. Try and return them and get some new blades for your old 4 blade muzzys. What arrows are you shooting? I can't get any of my muzzys to spin good on arrows with the Easton Hidden Insert, yet Thunderheads, Steelforce and the NAP Hellrazors all spin good on the same arrows. Good luck Matt

That would depend on where I was hunting. That deer looks young to me in that pic. When the velvet comes off he won't have much mass, his spread is narrow, but he has good tine length. Without other pics I would guess that deer around 125 inches. In northern Michigan I would shoot, southern Michigan, Iowa, or Illinois I would probably pass. And then kick myself later. Also might depend on the amount of land that I could control around him, where I hunt the most he would have a very good chance at making it to next year.

Some years ago when I was in my late teens and early twenties I shot a Hoyt at 94lbs. I would turn it down to 86 or 87 lbs for winter leagues, and then crank it up for 3D all summer. I shot everyday. I am only 5'8 and at that time around 175lbs. I had no problem shooting that draw weight. Although it was mostly an ego thing!!! I did like the performance on deer. People keep asking why shoot that. I'll tell you that with a heavy arrow and moderate speed you get tons of energy. You can hit a deer just about anywhere and still pass thru. It's kind of the same reason to shoot a .300 RUM instead of a .243. I used to watch Dan Fitzgerald shoot a 90lb long bow, now there is a real chore. Now I only shoot at 72lbs, and my shoulder is thanking me. A few more years down the road and I may only shoot 65lbs, who knows. I say if you can shoot high pounds comfortably and accurately then go for it. More power to you. What's the big deal.

I have taken animals with both the Thunderhead and the Muzzy. I don't think either one is better than the other. When your equipment is tuned they both shoot great. I've shot Thunderheads since they first came on the market in the 80's. If I was going elk hunting I would probably shoot Steelforce heads. I have shot them and they fly good also. Have not hunted with them. My son hunted with them so I played around with them to see how they shot. He had great penetration with them on a whitetail only shooting 34lbs of draw weight. Matt

I am thinking of switching to Beman MFX , or the Full Metal Jacket arrows with the Hidden Inserts. My question is how can you make sure that your inserts are aligned so that your broadheads spin good? Normally I spin test until they are good, mark the insert and when I glue them I just align the marks. But with those inserts you can't do that. Thanks for any info. Matt

Re: How many still use fixed power scopes I have a fixed 4 X 40mm on a Marlin 30-30. That rifle has been that way for 22 years and I still use it now and then. Mostly if I'm still hunting or we are driving deer. That is the only fixed power I still own.

Re: Iowa info please The outfitter we might book with is in Indianola. It's Schulers Guide Service run by Jack Schuler. He used to guide for Steel Creek Outfitters I think. We know a couple of guys that have hunted with Jack before.

Re: Iowa info please We applied for zone 5 last year, but not sure if we have to apply for zone 5 again this year, or if we can apply for a different one. The reason we picked that area is because we know a couple of guys who have bowhunted with Jack Schuler who runs Schulers Guide service in Indianola. They usually do pretty well with him. One of them took a 150 inch buck this year with Jack. We are willing to look at other areas. Someone told me to check out Allamakee (sp) county. Not sure where to look. Just trying to get some input. Thanks for the info. Matt

Myself and two buddies are starting to plan for an Iowa bowhunt. We should draw tags for 2007, we have two points. We have found an outfitter in zone 5 that we may book with. But I am trying to look at other options. We will look at any outfitter or a DIY hunt on public or private land. If anyone can give me any information on public land or point me to a quality outfitter that would be great. Also I may drive out a few times this summer and try to secure some private land for a DIY hunt. Thanks for any info. Matt

Re: Barnes TSX ? I'm getting 3110, someone else stated 3150 from factory loads for the 300 RUM. Barnes claims they have reduced pressures so that you get higher velocity. I have to believe they are correct. My load is with Winchester once fired brass, cci primers, and 67.5 grains of H4350. No signs of over pressure and primers look fine. At 68 grains I had some signs of pressure so I backed off 1/2 grain. I had loads from 66 to 68 in 1/2 grain increments and they all shot very accurate. So I went with the most velocity I could get. I may play with different powder next summer. This was the first round with the TSX and I had some of that powder already. I may also try going to the 165 grain. These are by far the most accurate bullet I've ever shot from this rifle. I've done no work to the rifle, it needs a trigger job, but if I do my job that load will shoot consistently around .7 3 shot groups. After the 3rd shot the barrel is heating up and the 4th shot will be off. With Hornady 180's I only get around 3020 with that same powder. Matt

Re: Barnes TSX ? Well I'm very happy with the results that I 've gotten with these bullets. I've taken three deer this season with them. One at 100 yards dropped right there, one at 170 yards dropped right there, and the last one was 270 yards and ran about 50 yards. The first two were high shoulder and spine shots. I won't do that again unless I have to. Way too much damage and meat loss. The last deer was 270 yards and I center punched the lungs. He didn't run very far, and had a good blood trail. All three were complete pass thrus and really destroyed the the lungs. I can't believe the internal damage and the exit hole doesn't look very big. I never had these results with Core Lokts even though I killed alot of deer with them. I would reccommend these to any body looking for a bullet that can be a do all bullet. Deer to elk or moose. Very satisfied. Matt

Re: Trajectory ? Thanks guys. I know that I need range time to find my exact POI. I was looking for a good starting point, without using alot of ammo up. I will give my scope the adjustment I think I need and head to the range this week and go from there. Thanks Matt

I am shooting a NEF huntsman. Using Harvester 300 grain hollow point, in a Harvestrer sabot, with 110 grains of FFg GOEX Pinnacle and a 209 primer. I have not shot it thru the chrono so I don't know how many FPS I am getting. I am right on at 75 yards, about a 1 1/4 group. How fast will these drop? That is my question. Should I raise it up a couple of inches. My longest shot could be however far I am comforable with. I will probably limit myself to 150 yards. Thanks for any info Matt

Re: remington 7400 I used to own a 742, which is the older model of the 7400. And I currently own a 760, which is the pump model. I like the pump gun better than the auto. I doesn't jam, and mine shoots more accurate than my auto did. I had some problems with the auto not ejecting properly. Some times it would tear a chunk out of the brass and leave the empty in the chamber. My dad has the 7400 and doesn't have any problems with it jamming as long as he uses factory ammo. Some reloads do not cycle right. If I was to buy another I would buy a bolt action. I don't know if I would buy another pump gun. Even though I like it and have no problems with it. Also on the auto's I don't know anybody who reccomneds doing a trigger job on them. So if you get one with a bad trigger you are just stuck with it. Good hunting Matt

Re: Mosquito with a Cannon? Do I qualify to join the gang? I dropped a buck in his tracks yesterday at 100 yards with a 300 H&H. I know it's a bit on the small side compared to the newer Ultra Mags.

Re: POI question. According to Remington ballistics if your are 2 inches high at 100 you would be 1.5 high at 75 yards. This would put you right on at 215 yards. This was with 100 grain bullet at 2960 fps, with a low BC. You may need more than 9 clicks, at 75 yards one click will not be 1/4. Hope this helps. Matt

Re: Barnes TSX ? My rifle is a Winchester Model 70, 300 H&H. These are handloads. They are by far the most accurate bullet I've ever shot from this rifle. They will shoot well under MOA if I do my job. Federal is loading them in this caliber also and I think they advertise around 2950 fps, but they are $60 a box.