Bow Hunter Derek

Re: XT Quiver question... I have the 2 piece raised quiver on my XT and love it. They are ROCK solid. Not saying they are not expensive, they are. Are they worth it? That is up to you. I will warn you, if you have an HHA or VBG or other type of adjustable single pin sight, you may have to modify the mounts for the quiver to allow clearance for the sight knob. I had to build some spacers to move my quiver out about 1/2" to get the clearance I needed.

Re: Finally some success (pics) Awesome job!

Re: ATV Helmet question Last year I bought two full face motocross type helmets for my 4 and 6 year old girls off of Ebay. I got a great deal on them as a pair from a guy. They had hardly ever been worn. I think I paid under half price (including shipping) of new. If you are patient and play the Ebay game, you can get a pretty good deal on a kid size helmet.

Re: Lumenocks Look in the Hunting Equipment forum. There was just a long discussion about them only a couple weeks ago. I think it is still near the top. In a nut shell, yes they are great. You can make your own like I did or buy them like a buddy of mine did.

Re: vertical or horizontal pins Right now I have a HHA 5000 single verticle pin slider on my bow. I've shot horizontal pins before too and like them. In fact, I have a new Sword sight with horizontal pins on order, but I'm not totally sold on them yet. The new VBG sights look cool. My question is how do the new angling pins adjust? How do the multiple pins adjust vertically? When you do move them, does the entire ring for each pin move, so they become kind of stacked and funky looking?

Re: Team ThunderStrut is on the board!!!!! Congrats Rhino!

Re: Osceola for Team ThunderStrut! AWESOME HUNT! I've hunted those same swamps a couple years ago and know just how tough they are. Congrats! Nothing better than a public ground Osceola!

Re: distance to target from tree stand? Heck I can be off 3 yards (OK, OK 10 yards) simply by my bad form when those big antlers come into range! Actually what I typically do is range trees, but from my eye level on stand that way I know the true horizontal distance. I range several trees and mentally mark out a parimeter on the ground. Then when the deer comes in, I know what yardage to estimate if there is no time to get the range finder up.

Re: Info of binocs The key question is ... What is your opinion on "decent" and "costs a fortune"? For me it was $300 max and best quality for the money. So, I bought the Nikon Monarch ATB's at around $280. I've had them for two years and love them. For me they were the best buy for my money.

Re: distance to target from tree stand? Tominator is right, it is a simple math problem. However, what many fail to understand is why it works this way. First you have to understand that an arrow or any other object traveling a horizontal distance is only going to fall at the constant rate based on gravitational pull. So that means that if your target is only 20 yards from the base of your tree, the arrow will drop only by "x" amount from gravity, regardless if you are on the ground, 20' up, 30' up, or 200' up. So, regardless of how high you are up the tree, you will want to shoot the deer for 20 yards. However, if you use a rangefinder (not the self adjusting one refered too earlier), it will read "20 yards" at the base of the tree, "21.08 yards" at 20 feet up the tree, "22.36 yards" at 30' up the tree, and "69.6 yards" at 200' up the tree (my exagerated example). In a nut shell, always take the horizontal distance from you to the animal as your aiming yardage, not the diagonal yardage. What the self correcting rangefinders do is caluculate the horizontal distance based on the diagonal distance that a normal range finder would shoot. What I don't get is the fascination with this technology with today's bows. Unless you are bow hunting say, in the mountains for a goat that is on a cliff either way below or above you, why would you even care about the correction needed? The vast majority of us are hunting whitetails, on reasonably sloped (or flat) ground and are perched anywhere from 15' to 25' feet up (OK, there are some 30' nuts out there too). The distance between horizontal and vertical distances is not significant enough to worry about when today's bows shoot so fast and flat. Hold the 20 yard pin on and you've got a dead dear from 10 yards out to 25 yards. I think these self adjusting rangefinders have a place in hunting, but I think the bulk of the bowhunters would be better served to take the keep it simple method.

Re: wife says big pile-o-sheds has to go I could use a good set of rattling horns. Nothing fancy, just good for rattling. I also would like one side of a nice shed to go in a display case with my full mount turkey. Shoot me a PM and let me know if you are willing to pick something out of your bunch. I can't ever seem to find a shed around here. I take that back, last spring I found one side off a small forkie. That is my typical shed find.

Re: Nitro-Stinger Arrows ? My local shop sells a TON of them. Personally, I've never bought them, mostly due to price. Goldtips are $20 a dozen cheaper at our shop and I've had such good luck with them, why change. But that being said, the Stingers are great arrows. They group amazing.

Re: Shot my bow tonight I shoot probably 5 days a week, regardless of the season. I just love to shoot a bow.

Re: Mathews Questions I believe that you will gain 1/2" of draw by going to 60%. The difference ... shoot one, you'll know it when you feel it. As good as that SQ2 feels, the Switchback, XT, and even the Outback are simply amazing.

Re: Today the quest begins I'm JEALOUS!!!!! Go get one for our team. Wish I were going to Florida to hunt this year. It is so much fun down there.

Re: Switchback? Go to www.mathewsinc.com and you can compare the models. Basically the XT is a slightly refined version of the 05. The 05 is 33" ATA and a couple fps faster than the 06 XT. The 06 XT is 31" ATA. They redesigned the cam to make the XT slightly smoother than the original. They also added more vibration dampeners than the original had. All in all, there is very little difference between the two when you shoot them, IMO. I bought the XT. However, if I already owned an original 05, I doubt I'd spend the money for an XT.

Re: Who still drags their own deer Drag them the by hand until they are out of the woods. Once in the field, the 4 wheeler does all the work. The best doe drag was taught to me by an old timer. Just cut a piece of a stout stick about 10" to 12" long. Then take you knife and puncture the cartlidge in the nose. Insert the stick into one nostril, through the cartlidge, and out the other nostril. Now you have a nice handle to pull by and no head flopping around catching on trees and logs. "Every doe has a built in handle" was what he told me. It works pretty awesome.

Re: Remember that Indiana Buck... I've followed this buck on the Indiana forums and the Indiana media since the beginning. I truely believe that this kid just simply had no clue what he had shot. By all accounts he is simply a weekend warrior out to kill a deer and happened to bag a buck of a life time. I really believe that he did not want the hassle associated with this monster. This thing was first released on the internet on an Indiana forum by a guy who had seen the buck first hand and supposedly had good intentions by posting it up. The demand by my fellow Indiana hunters who craved more info, coupled with the firm stance by the person who posted the info, quickly turned into a heated debate. Forum members demanded more info and photos, the orginal poster would not offer them up. This fueled the fire worse as more and more people beyond the Indiana forums found out about this buck. When the only photo was put up and the person in the photo was not the hunter, then the rumors blew up. The internet is a powerful tool. It can do a lot of good and a lot of damage. Unfortunately in this case, I believe the internet and many of us that use it did so much damage in this case, that none of us will likely ever learn the details that went into harvesting this awesome animal. The kid simply saw what was going on, the rumors, the accusations, and said "the heck with it!" So he trades it off, changes his phone number, and melts back into annonimity. He simply does not care about antlers like so many of us do. That is his choice. Unfortunately, in a situation like this, he would have been internet fodder now matter what he did. If he would have come right out and told the story in magazines and paraded it around as most proud hunters would, he would have been labeled as an opportunist. Personally, I don't agree with his decision, but again it was his choice. I'd have handled it different, but that does not mean it would have been right in the internet public eyes.

Re: Alpine Soft Loc Quiver Sold pending payment.

Re: Alpine Soft Loc Quiver Forgot to mention, the foam is in the hood (just can't see it in photo). One side is ate up from broadheads, but I flipped it over and the other side is still good. $20 TYD or trade for a decent sight for my wife's bow.

Alpine Soft Loc 5 arrow quiver in Mossy Oak camo. Compete with mounting bracket, short screws, long screws, and stand offs. Two small limbsavers mounted on back side as well. Used but in good condition. $25 TYD (lower 48) Paypal or Money Order OR Willing to trade for a good round pin guard type of sight for my wife's bow. Thinking of something along the lines of a Carolina Archery Foxfire or similar sight.

Re: lumiknock I've built two versions now. Let me first say that if you are looking for a cost effective "Lumanok", just go on Ebay and buy some for around $20 for three. You'll save your time and a lot of hassel for the few extra bucks. However, if you are like me and just love to tinker with stuff, just for the fun of it, then this is an ideal little project. I toss out this warning because, you will ruin a few little lights in the learning process, so the true Lumanok may be a more cost effective solution. What I did was very similar to what is on Archery Talk. I took several nocks and drilled them out to 5/32" and stopped the drill bit just at the point were the nock transitions from the insert into the arrow, to the part you see sticking out of the arrow. I then over bored the hole by 1/64" to a about 3/32" short of my first hole. This allows the head of the Thill light to sit snug into the nock, yet let the battery section slide in and out easily. Before inserting the light, I took some Goat Tuff glue and put some where the light and red collar for the light join. I found that the lights tend to want to slip out of the collar. Once the glue sets up, I set up my butane torch and took a small sewing needle (it can not be a pin like described on AT, it must be a needle. A pin won't handle the heat). I get the tip red hot and stick it through the nock and into the red collar on the light. Once it cools, I trim off the needle and file down the stub left sticking out. Now you have a nock that will turn on and off. The next trick was to figure out how to turn it on at the shot. So, I took shrink tubing and put it on the battery base. It takes about 3 layers melted onto the battery base for it to hold tight in the arrow. I suppose this depends also on how thick the tubing is. I just had a bunch in my tool box, so I used that. When you get it the right diameter so that it fits snug into the arrow, you are done. Just slide the whole unit into the arrow. You should have to press hard enough so that the light turns on when you put in the nock. Once it is all the way seated in, pull out on the nock and it will shut off. When you shoot your arrow it will turn on. I currently have 6 of these that work good. I've got three that are junk. Like I said, if you are prepared to have a few mistake ones, take on this project. If not, just buy the Lumanoks.

Re: WTB: cheap quiver Right camo and good price.

Re: WTB: cheap quiver AT is the place for the deals, but you have to be on top of it. Deals move FAST over there. The best deals seem to pop up first thing in the morning and go quickly. Still, you should be able to pick up a quiver pretty cheap over there.

Re: Changing Cams. Are you sure you need an entire cam? I'm no Jenning's expert, but I do have a brand new Jennings CR3.4 for sale in the classifieds and it uses modules to adjust the draw length. You simply change the module and the draw lenght is adjusted. I'd have to look again, but typically this is done without a press.