Leo

Ask John Kerry.

Avery. Probably makes the thin vinyl you need. or for $6 Go here http://stickertoit.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=1b0b2374aaccc2ed9ea18f375ffe82bf

I think Buckee nailed this one. Bottomline, if you are hunting in an area where a lack of a blood trail would prevent you from finding the animal, do not hunt there in the rain. We have plenty of super thick swamps here that will absolutely swallow any animal that runs just 75 yards. If you have to walk the grid pattern to find the deer, better bring a chainsaw. On top of that, when rain is a possibility, it really isn't that cold. Otherwise, obviously, it snows. The time you need to find the animal in is limited by the temperature. The warmer the weather the faster you need to find your harvest, to avoid spoilage. I routinely throw the customary 30 minutes of waiting in the toilet, if I know the animal was hit good and I hear him fall. If I truly know the hit was good and I heard him fall, I find the arrow, FIRST! and start tracking immediately. The time it takes for me to get out of the stand is enough for the deer to expire on a good hit. Temperatures here during the hunting season average 70 degrees. You are racing against spoilage on the hot days. Seriously, if it's raining the bow gets left at home. Even gun hunting is a race on the warmer days in thick swamps.

Maybe the model this person is referring to references off the string posts. As far as I have seen the correct timing distance is set from the MODULE SCREWS. This distance is different for different model bows. Here is the 2008 Bowtech Owners Manual. http://www.bowtecharchery.com/downloads/OM_BT08.pdf Adjusting timing on a binary cam without knowing EXACTLY what you are doing is an invitation to disaster.

I did a little more research on this sight because of your comments. I now have to humbly eat my own words about the game seeing the light on all lighted sights. Apparently, and this should be no surprise to Summit fans they have addressed that issue with this sight. Leave it to Summit to figure it out! Light from the sight ONLY goes to the shooter. According to their website NO light is visible to the game! This is a MAJOR improvement on these types of sights and is very significant. The sight can be toggled from pendulum or multipin mode with the flip of a switch. So if you decide you don't like pendulum mode, no biggy. Just flip the switch and your pre-programmed multi-pin settings pop up. The sight has a "Sleep" mode. It automatically turns off when motionless for 5minutes to conserve battery power. The big difference here is this is a real "Sleep" mode. As soon as you pick up the bow or move it (ie. to draw it) it automatically turns ITSELF back on! Thanks for your post. You've got me looking seriously at this sight now. This is a different critter than I first thought it was. Note: Because of the battery power, it may not be legal in every state. So check your regs.

I seriously doubt the Gold will be discontinued. Some specific models of it... maybe. BUT! If you can get one for $500. BUY IT! BUY IT! BUY IT! You will never get a better deal on an awesome semi-auto. I've got one already and if I saw one for $500 I'd max out the credit card and buy another, just so I could have two. I'm not joking. It absolutely would be worth it to me

When I was in Colorado Springs last year, at the hotel there was a Cabelas pamphlet in the "things to do" rack at the hotel. Cool I thought, a Cabelas in Denver. Then I opened the pamphlet and it said, "Coming Soon!" Now that kind of made me mad! What kind of tease is that? It's not as if the folks staying at the hotel are gonna be there long enough for "Coming Soon!" Now you're saying, for crying out loud, I'd be waiting until '09! What moron thought up that advertising prank?

You're way ahead of many folks just by saying thank you!

I agree. I shoot the Basspro's Redhead Supremes. If I was tourney shooting I'd probably shoot something else. But since there are no dots on deer...

His rifle might hate it or love it. I don't know. Even "good" ammo shoots like crap in some rifles. The opposite is also true, sometimes the cheap stuff is outstanding, but he is going to have to discover that for himself. There's no shortcut I know of. He should try a box of it before he commits to a big lot of the stuff. Taking ammo your rifle doesn't like on trip is a crying shame. The Wolf ammo IS the cheap stuff. I understand the attraction. If it works for him, cool. If not, only he can decide.

Redhead (Bass Pro Brand) arrows sometimes go on sale after the seasons go out. Depends on that stores particular stock. If you know what size arrows and spine you need, you can walk out of there with 1 dozen new arrows for under $50. I have seen them as low as $35 but don't wait for that if the store is far away. You won't get there in time before they are all gone! These arrows aren't for tourneys or dot shooting but for hunting they are absolutely FINE. I've killed plenty of game with these arrows. These are the arrows I took to Africa. That's how much confidence I have in them. At the gun counter ask what's on sale and what has rebates on it. Sometimes a sale plus a rebate = a new gun for less than the used ones are going for Winchester and Browning are the brands to watch for this.

If you spray them down with Camp Dry made by Kiwi. The camo pattern will last a whole lot longer.

There actually was such an offer made on this very forum. I sent in my info and got three to try for free. Thanks again Paul. If enough of you want to try them, why not get together buy a pack and split them up? I look forward to seeing if there actually is a speed increase. I'm pretty convinced there has to be. It's not much but I would just about bet there is some. I don't think it's a weight decrease thing, that causes the speed increase, as I actually believe the FOBs make the arrow a teeny bit heavier (at least when compared to Blazers). I definitely lose a little FOC but the increase in KE may in fact be worth it. IME, low FOC arrows have difficulty penetrating on a straight path. The FOB did not cause my arrow to angle into the target any differently than a vaned arrow. Straight path penetration appears to remain the same. But frankly, I need to test shooting at the target a few more angles to be certain they are equal. The best test is shooting the target with it's face at a 45 degree angle to the shooter. (Think quartering away shots and you'll see why this is important.) I haven't had any pop off, but my nocks are really really tight. I also haven't noticed any in flight noise at all. If the back of your arrow was a little out of square, I bet they'd make a racket though. I noticed the same thing with G5 Montecs. If your insert face isn't square they make noise and fly awful. I think squaring up the rear of your arrow before plugging in a FOB should be an additional recommendation on their website. G5s ASD really isn't a stupid toy. It's super easy accurate way to square up the front and BACK of your arrow shaft. Squaring up the backs of your arrow shafts before you put any nock in there is a good idea anyway. You'll crack less carbons at the nock if you do. Squaring up the back distributes the force of the nock on the back of the shaft more evenly. Anyhow, I'm glad I generated some interest in the fun I had today.

I shot them and vaned arrows at the same target using the same point of aim. The FOBs hit consistently a little higher than the vanes. They aren't dropping as much. I don't have a chrono to prove it but the increased penetration also gives me a clue they are flying faster. They penetrated about 1" deeper than the vaned arrows. This was a brand new target block, so I wasn't just hitting soft spots.

Here is the link for the FOBs http://www.starrflight.com/ These things aren't a joke.

I wasn't able to really shoot them when I first received them because my setup wouldn't allow it. I don't change anything on my bow during the season. It's a personal thing. Well season is over here and I made the very minor change I needed to make to shoot these. All I had to do was spread the string loop out some. Conclusion: Next dozen shafts I get, are getting these things. Installing them is a breeze and practically impossible to screw up. Arrows fly true, faster, and hit harder.

I would caution you to work up your loads again. This is something you should do when ever you change any component. Changing brass type definitely qualifies. Some nickel plated brass has less powder capacity than standard brass. This can result in significantly higher pressures than you experience with plain brass. Case life varies per cartridge and loading. No surprise there.

Wow! Do you think it took eight years to fly that far? :lol: Seriously, that's incredible. I just can't help think that duck (or the band itself) got here some other way.

They are small and convenient. Kinda slow to use but as often as I need a press, I'd rather have it than a big piece of equipment. Note: Keep the threads on the tightening screw well lubed. On unlubed Bowmaster is a knuckle buster!

The big problem with projected dot sights like the Summit is the dots are just as visible to the animal in front of you as they are to you. That little flash in the corner of their eye will get you BUSTED! You can certainly use sights like that successfully if you keep that limitation in mind. BTW, same thing happens with pin illuminating lights. IMO, best to get the brightest fiber optic pin you can or even a tritium lit one. Less to think about is better. Honestly, I've come to the conclusion there is absolutely no real good reason for a pendulum sight if you are going to limit your shots to 35yds and under. Many bows nowadays shoot plenty flat enough to put the arrow in the vitals out to 25yds, some even further. Set your first pin so that it hits 3 inch high at 5yds. Then figure out at what distance it hits 3 inch low. You might be able to shoot a lot further than you think with just one pin. No need for a pendulum inside that distance.

Resizing actually stretches the brass some. If your close to max before resizing, you may very well be over afterward.

I would think if that was an arrow or bullet wound that deer would be in MUCH worse shape than it appears to be. I doubt a bad shot caused what you are seeing.

So so so true. I don't care how good you are or your stuff is. You can't kill them where they aren't! I know PLENTY of folks who are great hunters but have never killed a decent deer simply because they never hunt where they actually have a chance to.

Congrats on the pintails. You guys did good. We had a couple flights come by us but they were out of range. Couldn't whistle coax them that last little bit. The ones that broke my heart were the three drake canvasbacks that were just a hair too far. They were just close enough that tell tale red wedge head was unmistakable. All three drakes. What a treat! I wanted one of them real bad.

Yep, Read the reloading manual reloading basics section BEFORE you do your first!!! One very basic thing that newbies miss is loading a powder charge that is BELOW the minimum. Never ever ever do this. This can be EXTREMELY dangerous. Not just a bullet lodged in the barrel either. A charge thats too low can make your gun go off like a BOMB. Buy a good manual and read it. Do not depend on friends advice that "this is a good load".