Leo

I have a No-Peep on my bow and think it works just great. Some people can't get the hang of them and some folks have no issues whatsoever. For shooting in low light conditions they are a huge advantage.

Published 10yrs ago. Might be exactly what you are looking for. Into the Wild http://209.85.165.104/search?q=cache:DMHA8UPNwvoJ:search.barnesandnoble.com/booksearch/isbnInquiry.asp%3Fz%3Dy%26endeca%3D1%26isbn%3D0385486804%26itm%3D3+alaska+true+story+died&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=37&gl=us&client=firefox-a I agree with Jeramie the Left Behind series is pretty awesome.

When you are using a Polarizing filter, turn on the dynamic Histogram display mode if your camera has it. This will give you a graphical depiction of the color and light to dark effect the filter is having. Turning on the Histogram display is honestly more accurate then the LCD viewer itself can deliver. Try this. It's neat

I realize I was repeating some of the advice you already gave. The point I'm trying to drive home is how you go about resizing/re-sampling is what finally makes the difference. Here's the thing an awful lot of "upgrading" digital camera customers are finding out in a nutshell. More Megapixels means the photo is more difficult to resize to "internet" size. A 2832 × 2128 (6MP) image has 95% more information in it than a 640x480 (0.3MP) image. In other words the resized photo contains only 5% of the photos original detail when you resize it from 6mp to 0.3mp. No surprise, you can absolutely see the difference. Different re-sampling algorithms do a much better job at throwing away detail than others. When you are faced with such an enormous disparity of sizes it takes a lot of experimentation with different re-sampling filters to get right. Photo servers typically use the quickest and not necessarily the most appropriate methods for resize. As you pointed out, the only way to prevent them from running their "auto" functions on a picture is to only upload stuff that meets their guidelines. However, if you blindly auto resize letting your photo software apply default algorithms only to your stuff before you upload it, your own personal results may be no better than if they did it. Resizing a quality large MP photo to a substantially smaller MP size is not an automatic thing. It can be extremely frustrating. Going from 2mp to 0.3mp isn't so tough. Heck, that's what most of us started with so why should 6mp be anything but easier? The truth is it's not easier, it's actually many times harder. On 2mp photos almost all the time the "auto" results are just fine. 6mp to 0.3mp is a different story. Auto settings can and do end up giving you garbage. Honestly, if you're taking pictures you know will only be email and internet share pictures. Change the settings on the camera and save yourself a lot of grief. Set the camera to take 1200x900 photos and have fun. Those pictures will resize the easiest and still look great after undergoing almost any resize process. Yeah, you're making a 6MP camera take 1.1MP pictures but trust me, that's by far the easiest route. The bigger MP photos can be a whole lot tougher to resize to much smaller sizes correctly, and that's the truth.

There are a few things anyone who uploads resized photos to an internet photo server need to know. 1. What pixel x pixel size they enforce. 2. What photo file size they enforce. This is crucial because if you don't upload your photos in a format at or below their maximums they will make the changes for you. That's not a good thing. Your chances of getting blurry or ugly results are almost guaranteed. The key is you simply must create a copy of your photo that meets the web servers requirements BEFORE you upload. There is TONS of misinformation on the subject of resizing photos. Most of it is due to the fact there are several ways resizing is accomplished and many programs do not reveal what method they are using. 1. Cropping to the desired photo pixel x pixel size is the most straightforward. This method simply cuts out a window in the picture you want the size you want. 2. A pure resize simply ignores a certain number of pixels (like every other one to get half size). Sometimes this works but in photos that have any straight lines in them (ie. Buildings) this method can really cause goofy results. 3. A resample resize runs the photo through an algorithm that accounts for the values of the neighboring pixels. There are several different algorithms out there. Certain ones work better for different photos. And finally JPG format is a compressive format. JPG compresses by discarding bits of detail. It is not a lossless compression. Once the detail is compressed out, it's gone forever. So always save an unedited original. The quality setting on your editing software is crucial to controlling the amount of compression that occurs when saving an edited photo. Ignore this setting at your own peril. The best practice is to resample with different filters at the highest quality setting until you get the desired results. Then use the quality setting on the editor to get your file size right.

I've been out of town for awhile and noticed some folks wanted specs. From the properties of the original fullsize photo. Date and time of picture: 5/26/2007 8:08pm (yes it was still light outside, there's a reason for that.) Camera: Canon PowerShot S3 IS w/Telephoto Adapter 1.5x Bit Depth 24 Shutter Speed 1/318sec Lens Aperture F/3.5 Focal Length 72mm (Because of the goofy way I got focus I don't know if I trust this number. Plus there is a multiplier in the camera for the telephoto and I don't remember if it was of or on.) Exposure Compensation 0 Step With IS mode on I simply laid on my back to steady the shot and snapped several photos. Because there was still some ambient light the camera didn't over compensate and "white out" the whole moon. Usually that's exactly what happens when folks try to take a full night shot of the moon. They get nothing but a white blob in a black background. When you spot the moon while it's still light out that's when to try it. Then it's simply a matter of adjusting the brightness and contrast to turn it into a "night" shot. The distance of the subject is obviously out of range of the auto focus so you either take a bunch of photos with no regard for auto focus and try to get lucky or turn on manual focus. Without a tripod set up the "lucky" method is the quickest way With manual focus mode you really need to use a tripod. Digital photos are essentially free so click away until you get what you want. Since the moon isn't going anywhere quickly, just go nuts.

Don't forget to put your photo quality set at max before saving a resized photo in jpeg format.

Had the telephoto adapter on and was able to sneak in close enough for this photo. This is one of my frequent backyard visitors. Hopefully she'll have a fawn this year.

Took this picture tonight from the front lawn.

Very very nice hide on that bear!!! That's a fabulous rug in the making there. Mounting the head on the rug looks cool.

Those instructions about the User CP look familiar. Make sure you all [save Changes] when you're done. There are quite a few options in the User CP. It's quite flexible. I actually like the new board software, though right now I feel I'm in the minority.

I agree wholeheartedly. I put them in a crockpot with four chicken buillion cubes and cover them with water. Leave the crockpot on low at least overnight. Next morning fish them out and pull the bones and sinews. Cut up the meat for dumplings or add it to yellow saffron rice.

Minolta is no longer in the Camera business. They make components but not cameras. Sony purchased the rights to Minolta's Image Stabilization (IS) technology and have apparently improved upon it. You're right the IS is in the body of the Sony® α (alpha) DSLR-A100H Camera. So it may indeed be a Canon thing.

If you don't have WYSIWYG turned on in the edit options-message editor options of your User CP, Buckees instructions won't work. Go into User CP (It's on the left side of the screen, when you see it click it.) Pick Edit Options, scroll down until you see Message Editor Options and pick WYSIWYG.

You will be glad you did PA. Once you realize the value of Image stabilization at higher zoom powers you simply don't want to be without it. Then it also becomes apparent it's a helpful feature for Macro Shots. Unfortunately I've noticed with Canon SLRs the image stabilization feature seems to only be built into the lenses. Honestly I don't know if that is just a Canon thing. But for Canon SLRs that means unless you buy lenses with the feature, you don't have it. As you've discovered that makes collecting lenses rather expensive. The Powershot S series has image stabilization built into the body of the camera which means it's always available. Even during video clip recording. Image stabilization during video recording makes a major difference. Video recording is still the function where IMHO this camera is a major sleeper.

Good luck to you. I hope you have a great trip.

Hey hey fat buddy!! Great to see you in here. Hope we'll be hunting together again soon You did quite well in Texas too.

It's true several digital cameras take video clips. However, the field of competitors narrows substantially when you are looking for video that is 640x480 pixels at 30fps with stereo wind filtered sound. The Canon also allows you to take photos while you are filming. If you are looking for a camera that does both video and stills, pay attention to this specification.

I'm really impressed with the capabilities of Canon's Powershot S series with Image Stabilization. I recommend these cameras all the time to folks and this is why. The following photos were all taken with the S3 IS. Fallow Doe Axis Kabobs Kudu Horn Curl Watusi (frame capture from video mode can your camera do that?) Jake Close up Gobbler Impact (another frame capture this one captures the shot hitting the gobbler.) Four Leaf Clover (Macro shot)

IMO, they are acting exactly like turkeys that have been hunted hard on the roost. You may not think they are pressured but that is how they are acting. So act accordingly. The game is up on the roost. Odds of you getting one that way now are extremely low. Find out where they are frequenting (feeding or strutting) during the day and concentrate your efforts there instead. Stop scouting with your ears and look for sign (scratching/strut marks). On pressured birds 9 out of 10 will come in silent. They will also not be attracted to aggressive calling. Clucks and purrs only. Don't yelp, cut or cackle. High pressure birds depend more on their eyes than their ears or voices. You can't find them with shock gobbles or calling. So a run and gun technique is particularly futile. They will see you first 99% of the time. Good decoys are crucial. Good luck.

The Canon S2, S3 and S5 IS also take REALLY GOOD video clips. The Clips are legitimate DVD quality. It is not interlaced video so frame captures look quite good. There is a digital wind filter for excellent stereo sound as well. Yes Video fills up an SD card quickly but SD cards are getting alot cheaper. You can also get a filter adapter and a telephoto add on lense for all those Canon cameras. This really gives the camera outstanding reach. With the extra magnification you really can appreciate the image stabilization ability. The fact that you can use any AA battery is also significant. The lithium AAs are awesome. I've taken over 1200pictures on one set of batteries. NiCads don't even come close and for cold weather the Lithiums win hands down. You also have the very important feature of turning off all sound on the camera. This is crucial for taking wildlife shots. There isn't even a shutter noise. Except for the zoom motor the camera is completely silent. If you've seen any of my pictures on this board. They were all taken with the S2 or S3.

Close on the impala. It was 22 1/2". This makes it fall just barely shy of SCI Gold medal status.

Prayers sent!

Good luck on your quest for one. They aren't slam dunks. Some places are easier to get one than others. If you research a reputable outfitter, I assure you, you are in for an experience. Axis deer can be extremely challenging. IMO, they aren't as patternable as whitetails and can just as easily go nocturnal under pressure. The opportunity to harvest hard antlered game in the spring is simply awesome. No other antlered animal offers this opportunity that I'm aware of. I feel like I earned this one. I won't argue the point with anyone who feels otherwise. I was there they weren't.

Absolutely! Prayers sent!