Leo

I've done it more times than I can remember. Even in areas where daytime activity is practically zero, the daylight to dark sit is a solid tactic to kill mature bucks in their bedroom. Even the most nocturnal buck will stand up and stretch his legs every four hours (thereabouts). If you're camped in his bedroom, he is yours when he does that. Do you need to do that to kill a big buck? NO! Do you need to do that to kill a highly pressured mature buck? It improves your chances IMMENSELY! Rutting activity certainly increases daytime action. So that's a good reason for an all day sit too. But outside the rut, all day sits are most useful if you find the bedroom Honestly, bedroom sits are boring boring boring. You will often see nothing until the last 30 minutes of daylight. And sometimes you'll go ALL DAY and see NOTTA. I'm hesitant to recommend anyone try this since it really can turn into an excruciating NOTHING day. If you ever succeed at it once though you'll take five nothing days for one WOW day! It's hard to sit all day. Many hunts in Saskatchewan require you to be able to do this. If you don't do this during the peak of the rut up there. You are a fool! Every single daylight second up there is a possibility of the trophy of a lifetime. I've hunted entire weeks of back to back all day sits up there. In subzero temps as well. That's what it takes. If you wanna try Saskatchewan sometime in your life, better be prepared to sit all day, several days in a row. If you can't do that then SAVE YOUR MONEY!

I've spent the night in a turkey blind. It's kinda nice to sleep in and still set up the dekes in pitch dark. I saw tons of turkeys the next morning. Not blowing any off the roost while you're going in helps.

If you're allowed to hunt afternoons than DO! If you find a hot bird late in the season in the afternoon he's often lonely.

Well I only managed to get out for three hunts this year in South Carolina. I worked birds all three times and killed my second biggest ever South Carolina Tom. So in all the season was a resounding success. I really wanted my buddy to nail a good one this year. I didn't want to crowd him. He's still got today so I pray it might still happen. The Texas Rio hunt was fun. Only had an afternoon and morning hunt. I called three jake Rios into bow range (20yds). I didn't take the shot. Those are next years two year olds and the area I was hunting sees little pressure. Rios are a lot taller than our South Carolina birds. Worked some mature birds but their season is winding down there. Makes for very challenging hunting when they aren't hot and stupid with the breeding urge. In all I had a fun season. Not a lot of actual hunting days but full of very rich experiences.

Definitely read Dogdoc's link. Turkeys got nuts over Chufas (literally). Deer will browse it and scratch some up as well. Deer do like chufas as well. The nice thing about Chufas is the animals have to work a little to get at the nuts. This gives the plants a little extra chance to get going. Though they are classified as perennials they will often come up in decreasing numbers for a couple years after the first planting. Three years in a row seems to be max you can put them on the same plot. Chufas are a popular Carp bait in europe. They call them "Tigernuts".

For sure great pictures! Bird pictures in general are terrific fun, but I've only managed to get a couple raptor pictures myself. They are challenging photography subjects for certain! I've never gotten an owl photo. They are so nocturnal they are rarely seen in good photographic light. Identifying hawks is a challenge in it's own right. The Kestrel Buckee spotted Is pretty straight forward. So are eagles and owls. But correctly identifying hawks can sometimes be extremely challenging. I'm not gonna try and identify the ones in the other pictures.

There will be many cheaper used Hybrids for sale soon enough. Buyer beware, batteries may not be included! My wife and I looked at them very seriously last year. City mileage can be fabulous but highway mileage can be lower than a straight gas car. If you have a good mileage gas car and do lots of highway driving, the hybrid may cost you more in gas. Maintenance cost on those cars is significantly higher. Your probably looking at more dealer only parts than you are used to. We ran the numbers and for us it would have cost more. Depends on your situation and habits. Might be right for you might not.

Do not get any of this on any of the synthetic parts! Degrease all the metal parts with a Gun Scrubber. Let the gun dry. Lube it with Breakfree CLP. If the gun is very dirty the CLP will clean it. Just wipe it off before it drys and re-lube with CLP. Should work much better.

Poison Ivy

Congrats to you! What shell you pushing through that Indian Creek? I just got back from south of San Antonio Saturday night. Only got to hunt turkeys one afternoon and a morning. Called three jakes within bow range but was waiting for at least a two year old. They were definitely winding down where I was hunting. Pretty close beaked but still workable. Needed a couple more days. I want to try that again. Rio's are fun.

Better check your string over REAL good. You may have busted a strand and that popped the peep out!

The 770 has the same pressed in barrel as the 710. Not a screw in barrel like the venerable 700. For this reason I would not recommend using either the 710 or 770 as a custom rifle platform.

Might be an old face net. Put the velcro straps around your head and see how well you can see through it.

You will loose speed going from feathers to vanes. Even Blazers slow arrows more than feathers especially once you get more than 20 yards down range. I'd say I agree with your suspicion that Blazers probably aren't the best for aluminum arrows. I don't know for sure. Never tried them on aluminum and I shot aluminum for years. On carbons though, the Blazers really shine. I like them a lot. Feathers do have the best speed and they really stabilize arrows very nicely. But they are honestly a pain. They aren't nearly as durable as vanes and they really make a racket if you brush something with them in the quiver. Using vanes is just one less thing to worry about while hunting for me. On aluminums I used Duravanes for years and liked them. If I was still shooting aluminums I'd probably try the NAP 3 1/8" quickspins. For Carbons, the Blazers really perform. I like Bohning's instant gel for gluing on vane fletchings. But it will "frost" the arrows some if you use too much.

It sounds pretty certain you have at least a 1 in 10" twist in that barrel. The 180s or 190 grn loads should do quite well. If your gun shoots them well, and it sounds like it probably will. That Hornady light mag 180gr load for 30-06 is really awesome. I wouldn't have any reservation launching one at a ram. Those bullets are like a death ray on whitetails. Weatherby still sells the 180 Hornady on top of their very potent 300wby cartridge. The reason they do is in spite of supposedly "better" bullets for high velocity cartridges being available today the Hornady's flat out WORK! I'll wait for your report from a trip to the range trying them out. I have a feeling you are gonna like them

For 30cal rifles a twist of 1 in 10" or 1 in 11" is recommended for bullets heavier than 170grns. Your Browning A-bolt should have a 1 in 10" which should stabilize bullets up to 220grns just fine. The A-bolt has a pretty solid reputation shooting heavier bullets at the longer ranges accurately. However, that short neck on the 300WSM might not like the heavier bullets. It might do just fine. But in general short neck cartridges have a harder time holding the longer bullets straight in the bore. There is simply less neck there to do the job. I brought this up because, there are some 1 in 12 twist barrels out there. I don't know what Huntress's Win 70 has in it. If it's a stock 30-06 the odds are good it's a 1 in 10". The 1 in 12" barrels usually shoot 165 or 150grn bullets the best. Barrel length and the tightness of the bore make a difference too. I wouldn't go shorter than 22" on barrel length. So you might have the right twist and a good long barrel but because your rifle doesn't give the bullet enough twist (bullet jumps lands in a loose bore) it still doesn't shoot that bullet well. The Barnes are solid copper which is less dense than lead. For this reason Barnes are usually longer than the same weight copper/lead bullets. If your rifle likes 180gr lead/copper bullets usually it will like 165grn Barnes better than one that weighs 180. Personally, I'm not sold on the Barnes yet. Potash, you got your work cut out for you on that 223wssm. 223s bores can be real finicky. It might like only one weight bullet period. Hope you find what it likes without too much trouble.

Flash memory comes in varying data rates. For the dump trick to work the best you need the fastest stuff you can get your hands on. For post processing and editing it is best to work with AVIs until you are ready for the final post processing. This takes tons of hard drive space but it will save you some headaches later. The Pinnacle Studio software Wtnhunt mentioned is good post processing software but it DOES NOT work with every motherboard and graphics card. So be careful. I have Studio 8 and it simply didn't work until I got the right hardware. There is no returning this stuff for a refund either. Of course the software is supposedly much better now but I still feel like I got burned bad enough when I got Studio 8.

You are absolutely correct the 190gr Hornady Interlock has an outstanding Ballistic Coefficient for a 30 caliber bullet. You can also with careful reloading get it to launch at speeds very close to the max 180gr load you like. Because it's BC is 10% better if you match the speed of the 180gr the 190gr bullet will actually drop less than the 180gr counterpart. Yep, a heavier bullet that actually shoots flatter. So it seems, on the surface, a no-brainer to go for the 190gr Hornady BTSP interlock bullet every time. The issue is some barrels (in fact many factory barrels) simply do not stabilize the 190s worth a darn. If the 190s have a disadvantage in accuracy, with your gun, it will be evident at 100yds. This disadvantage only gets worse at farther ranges. If you have time to work up reloads and can afford possibly re-barreling your rifle with a more appropriate twist rate, the 190s will undoubtedly perform. Some stock rifles will indeed like them but many do not. And what you say is true. No factory loading is out there.

Well I've looked at and handled the Silver. I thought it was a fine shotgun. The one I handled, definitely had that Browning fit and finish they are known for. Besides the obvious aesthetic difference of the humpback receiver this gun shares the same gas system design as the Gold and Winchester SX#s. So it's bound to be a very very fast auto. It does not have the speed loading feature nor the manual magazine cut off the Gold has. This is not a big deal to upland bird hunters or turkey hunters but for waterfowl these features really shine in the duck blind. I don't think you can go wrong with the Browning Silver. It's a darn nice gun. It does appear that Browning is phasing out the Gold as there are already more Silver models available than Golds. Rumor has it, Browning is cooking up the next phase Gold that is gonna blow everyones socks off. I wouldn't wait for that though. If you like how the Silver handles, points and shoots for you. Get it. Thanks for the plug WaCoyote. I guess someone noticed I'm a Browning fan.

The Canon GL2 records on DV tape. To get it into PC will either take capturing it through a capture card utilizing the S-Video and Audio output cables doing a real time playback (which is no fun but I've done) or using a EE1394 connection and DV terminal (which I'm not familiar with, no 1394 connection on my computer). Supposedly the EE1394 route is the superior route. Alot of times Standard Def video is the best you can capture to the computer. Trying to capture at higher rates takes a top notch PC or you'll drop frames like crazy. The DV terminal may work a little neater. But I haven't used it so I honestly don't know. If you camera (some do) has the option to dump a portion of video from tape to the memory card, then do it that way. Then it's simply a matter of pulling the video segment off the card via usb. Hope that helps.

In 30-06 I'd be willing to stick my neck out and say either the 165grain or 180grain Sierra Gameking will be the most accurate bullet for you at 300yds. Sierra has a stellar long range accuracy reputation and they flat make bullets that go where you aim them a long ways off. The reason I don't automatically gravitate to the flatter trajectory of the 165 gr is some 30-06 rifles really prefer the 180gr bullets. In my experience I've seen more that do than don't. It's a twist and barrel length thing. I'd first determine what grain WEIGHT the gun likes the most at 100yds and go from there. The wind is the bogeyman at 300yds+, I like guns that prefer the heavier bullets to shoot long range for that reason. If you load your own. That helps a lot. If not, or to save time, consider some factory loads. The best factory loaded option I know of for the 165grn Sierra GameKings is loaded in Federals Vital shock. In general this is an amazingly accurate out of the box load. I've had it actually equal the accuracy I have attained on carefully worked up reloads. Factory loads aren't all the same "ca-ca" they used to be. The Sierra's are really good for medium sized game. Another "Factory" loading you may want to consider is Hornady's Light Mag 180gr BTSP load. My 30-06 Tikka absolutely loves that load and it's trajectory is actually better than 165grn stuff. It pushes that 180grn bullet at 2900fps which is essentially 300win mag performance from a 30-06! It will also shoot flatter than standard 165grn loads in 30-06, so if your gun likes 180grn pills this is an awesome factory loading. You will have a very tough time beating this cartridge by careful reloading. If your gun likes it, use it with confidence. 30 cal Hornady interlocks at 2900+fps are absolutely spectacular medium size game killers. Trust me on this. If your gun shoots them well, you will LOVE THEM! Here's an example of what I've done with the Hornady Light Mag stuff. Each square is 1/4". In general, I believe the Sierra GameKing is the safest bet, but if your rifle likes the Hornady Light Mag stuff, you just stepped up to 300 Win Mag performance and only have to carry a 30-06. Some guys love the Barnes stuff. Frankly, my experience with their stuff hasn't impressed me, at all. They keep changing and improving the bullet, that's for sure. There is legitimate reasons for that too. I'll wait a little longer before I try them again. In my opinion there are currently better solid copper bullets coming out of South Africa than this country.

The partitions are fabulous hunting bullets but for long range accuracy they honestly are not the best. The partitions essentially have three parts: Front lead, back lead and jacket. This construction is difficult to pull off with a great deal of consistency. They haven't been the most accurate bullet for me. Fantastic terminal performance, but don't expect them to be the best grouping bullet for you. Sierra Gamekings are seriously good long range bullets. I haven't shot the Accubonds but supposedly they shoot as good as Ballistic Tips without the "POP" factor. In 30-06 the 165grn and 180grn bullets weights will group the tightest for long range shooting. Yes the 150s are faster but the wind pushes them around a whole lot easier. Trajectory is repeatable. Wind is unpredictable.

That's REALLY good advice. The BOSS will make your ears bleed and that's no joke! Before I got my Radians hearing protectors whenever I would hunt with a braked rifle I'd keep an earplug in my left ear (I'm right handed). Trust me. If you find out the hard way you'll wish you hadn't.

I wasn't trying to indicate Beagleboy needed a lawyer, I suppose it may appear that way. I agree, that's the direction you turn only when you have to. The two worst kinds of lawsuits you can be involved in, are ones you lose and ones you win One bill, one doctor and facility. The insurance commissioner and Maximum out of pocket should handle everything solidly. My case covered three different states and several different hospitals and doctors. It was pretty messy.

Right there with you Tominator! I am certain I've passed the $500,000 mark since 2003. (The hospital gave me a free T-shirt... Whoo-Hoo!) Yes there were lawyers involved to get the insurers to pay their part. You have to get a lawyer with a situation as nasty as mine was. There was simply too much money involved for folks to blindly be signing checks. The doctors themselves don't get that much of the bill. Neither does the staff that assists them, nor the hospital. An amazing amount goes to cover insurance for the folks that worked on you and facility the work was performed at. This is in case anything goes wrong and you end up suing! It's boils down to one insurance company paying the premium for another. Your other insurer should have an "Out-Of-Pocket" maximum. Even if the 20% of the bill is more than that specified maximum, the maximum is all you pay. Some company policies are $2500 maximum out of pocket and some are more but it is likely significantly less than $8600. Depending on your current earnings a major medical expense may also be tax deductible. Hope this helps.